Hello everyone first time posting, i have a 127 that i think i may have the gov set wrong, when im mowing go over rough ground it starts to die but then catchs itself, im moving ok but not real fast,I also have to start it choked last summer i thought i didnt have to choke it to start it. also rebuilt front pto couple months ago mad ethe adjustments properly but now when i go to disengage pto i have to throttle down till blades stop then throttle back up and they stay stopped, when pto is engaged the button is barely off the clutch so i think its pushing it in far enough, do i not have the three adjustment screws tight enough or to tight any help would be great thanks
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Archive through May 26, 2009
- Thread starter jgerkins
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Oh my gosh, this guy is only advertising to sell to a very very big cub fan!
I can only figure that his wife wants him to trim the herd and maybe he's not trying hard to do so...
(Maybe you are on this list and reveal the mystery.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Charlie-
John U-
Chris-
I know that guy. I pass within 1 mile of his place on my way to work each day. He's not on this list that I've seen.
He's a nice older guy. I think he has quite a few Farmalls as well, so I bet he's just trying to lighten his load.
Let me know if you (or anyone else here) wants a spotter to go check them out/take some pics for you. I'd be happy to do it...
John U-
Chris-
I know that guy. I pass within 1 mile of his place on my way to work each day. He's not on this list that I've seen.
He's a nice older guy. I think he has quite a few Farmalls as well, so I bet he's just trying to lighten his load.
Let me know if you (or anyone else here) wants a spotter to go check them out/take some pics for you. I'd be happy to do it...
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Jason from Louisville: (Jgerkins) Welcome!
I think you've done a pretty good job of answering your own questions! If you don't have a manual, the governor adjustment procedure is #22 at Cubfaq.com #7 there covers PTO. I personally take it for granted that these Kohlers have to be choked to start. Lots of technical help on this site.
I think you've done a pretty good job of answering your own questions! If you don't have a manual, the governor adjustment procedure is #22 at Cubfaq.com #7 there covers PTO. I personally take it for granted that these Kohlers have to be choked to start. Lots of technical help on this site.
JASON G. - Welcome to the forum. Like Frank says, engines need a richer (More fuel) fuel mixture to start, especially when cold so the carb has a choke to allow the vacuum the engine produces to suck in more fuel when starting. In really cold temps the engines even need to run for a few minutes with the choke partially closed to richen the mixture till the engine warms up. It's all perfectly normal.
On Your PTO clutch, sounds like the three adjustment screws on the clutch itself are set properly, but the rod that runs from the PTO lever up to the lever at the front of the engine that pushes in on the center thrust button to disengage the PTO could use adjustment. There's a turnbuckle and a locknut in the middle of the rod, all 1/4" coarse thread, a 7/16" open end wrench should loosen the locknut and a 1/2" or 9/16" open end wrench should adjust the turnbuckle. You want to SHORTEN the rod maybe a quarter to 1/2 turn so Your PTO disengages when You pull the lever. I think the IH operator's manual for those clutches says a "Matchbook Cover" (or any other piece of cardboard like a cereal box or soda 12-pac box) should slide between the center button of the clutch and the fiber thrust button on the lever but You can actually run them just a bit tighter than that until the new friction disc wears in.
I'd "CAREFULLY" run the engine & mower while watching that You don't get toes, feet, or fingers into the mower housing or any other moving part and make the adjustments to the adjusting rod so the mower blades stop when You disengage the mower then tighten the locknut.
I had a CC 129 that had that same problem and I actually had to pull the lever back further than the normal latch allowed to get the blades to stop but once they started slowing down they would stop and I could let the lever return to it's normal "OFF" position. Not really a problem for a careful operator and something quickly fixed with the simple adjustment described above.
Don't know what to say about Your engine bogging down when going over rough ground. Only advice I can offer maybe is SLOW DOWN! The descriptions "Rough" and "FAST" are very subjective especially over the Internet. Sounds to Me like gas in the carb or fuel tank may be sloshing around enough the engine is actually running out of gas or flooding with gas. Also could be a loose electrical connection or bad wire in the ignition system loosing contact shutting the engine off for a second.
On Your PTO clutch, sounds like the three adjustment screws on the clutch itself are set properly, but the rod that runs from the PTO lever up to the lever at the front of the engine that pushes in on the center thrust button to disengage the PTO could use adjustment. There's a turnbuckle and a locknut in the middle of the rod, all 1/4" coarse thread, a 7/16" open end wrench should loosen the locknut and a 1/2" or 9/16" open end wrench should adjust the turnbuckle. You want to SHORTEN the rod maybe a quarter to 1/2 turn so Your PTO disengages when You pull the lever. I think the IH operator's manual for those clutches says a "Matchbook Cover" (or any other piece of cardboard like a cereal box or soda 12-pac box) should slide between the center button of the clutch and the fiber thrust button on the lever but You can actually run them just a bit tighter than that until the new friction disc wears in.
I'd "CAREFULLY" run the engine & mower while watching that You don't get toes, feet, or fingers into the mower housing or any other moving part and make the adjustments to the adjusting rod so the mower blades stop when You disengage the mower then tighten the locknut.
I had a CC 129 that had that same problem and I actually had to pull the lever back further than the normal latch allowed to get the blades to stop but once they started slowing down they would stop and I could let the lever return to it's normal "OFF" position. Not really a problem for a careful operator and something quickly fixed with the simple adjustment described above.
Don't know what to say about Your engine bogging down when going over rough ground. Only advice I can offer maybe is SLOW DOWN! The descriptions "Rough" and "FAST" are very subjective especially over the Internet. Sounds to Me like gas in the carb or fuel tank may be sloshing around enough the engine is actually running out of gas or flooding with gas. Also could be a loose electrical connection or bad wire in the ignition system loosing contact shutting the engine off for a second.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis/Jason:
Engine cutout on rough ground can be an electrical problem (loose connection someplace) or float level too high. I've also seen this when there was crap in the float bowl (gets shook up when you hit the bumps).
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Jason, great to have new people aboard!, but I hope you find that missing caps key on your keyboard soon....(Us old folks have a hard time reading that stuff from a twitter posting)
Engine cutout on rough ground can be an electrical problem (loose connection someplace) or float level too high. I've also seen this when there was crap in the float bowl (gets shook up when you hit the bumps).
Jason, great to have new people aboard!, but I hope you find that missing caps key on your keyboard soon....(Us old folks have a hard time reading that stuff from a twitter posting)
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- Allen Schumacher
Willis H. Your looking for a 14hp book? Did you transpose #'s in your post? 14hp=K321. But you say you have a 109, which I though was a 10hp.
Anyway, is this where you tried for your manual? If not try it. Happy downloading.
www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
Anyway, is this where you tried for your manual? If not try it. Happy downloading.
www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
10hp = K241.
kide
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Kraig:
Your formula made me stop for a minute (all right, I knew what you really meant..), but it got me to wondering what 10 HP IS equal to, so I looked it up here. That little old K241 is capable of supplying 330,000 foot pounds of force per minute. No wonder we get so much work out of an old Cub....
Your formula made me stop for a minute (all right, I knew what you really meant..), but it got me to wondering what 10 HP IS equal to, so I looked it up here. That little old K241 is capable of supplying 330,000 foot pounds of force per minute. No wonder we get so much work out of an old Cub....
KENDELL - I'm sure You know & have read the "Fine Print" that the mighty K241 should ONLY be worked at about 80% of maximum capacity for indefinite periods of time. IHC also recommended this practice for their stationary power units.
Still, 264,000 foot-pounds of force per minute is Pretty Darned Good!
Still, 264,000 foot-pounds of force per minute is Pretty Darned Good!
kide
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- Gerry Ide
So my K301 would be a real brute , based on Steve's 110% (435,000 foot pounds of force) - no wonder I can pull trees over with a single tug, clean drain tubes at idle and mow tall grass with a single pass (it's SUPERCUB !!)
Matt nice line up, before you take your nap tell us what models they are.
I see from the left the first one has its top off, the next is kneeling, then way down the line toward the left there is a 109 or something leaning/whispering something to the 149, or whatever it is...
I see from the left the first one has its top off, the next is kneeling, then way down the line toward the left there is a 109 or something leaning/whispering something to the 149, or whatever it is...
My quick guess is 149,127,122,70,123,102,149,109,122,86 from left to right.
Allen Thanks for the info you are right every thing I have looked up said a 109 hydrostic comes with a 10hp I havent found the serial numbers on the motor yet but the front cover has 14hp on it .I did find the numbers on the cub with help from the guys on this site and I figured it as a 1972. the serial number is 2050044U426437
