crankshaft question,thanks charlie i have a kohler manual,but i did not see if the k321 crankshaft is the same as a k301 as far as lenght and if they would interchange.the crankpin is the same from k241 to k341 does that mean they will all interchange?thanks for any help.
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Archive through May 10, 2007
- Thread starter rwilke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Rick A,
Page 8 says they are the same, course I have been know not to read manuals.
Page 8 says they are the same, course I have been know not to read manuals.
RYAN -
CHRIS - The last couple engines I've assembled I've either used LUBRIPLATE Assembly grease (white grease) in a white plastic tube to pre-lube moving parts or Federal-Mogul assembly lube which is a thick sticky green oil in a little 4 oz squeeze bottle. Everything that moves gets a heavy coat of either right after it's totaly cleaned, scrubbed, & wiped down with clean white lint-free towels. Neither one has an odor, but since they're both petroleum based there is a fire hazard if they should get close to a furnace or water heater.
WYATT - You really didn't need that SMV emblem when You ran that 72!
That was One Stout little tractor!
CHRIS - The last couple engines I've assembled I've either used LUBRIPLATE Assembly grease (white grease) in a white plastic tube to pre-lube moving parts or Federal-Mogul assembly lube which is a thick sticky green oil in a little 4 oz squeeze bottle. Everything that moves gets a heavy coat of either right after it's totaly cleaned, scrubbed, & wiped down with clean white lint-free towels. Neither one has an odor, but since they're both petroleum based there is a fire hazard if they should get close to a furnace or water heater.
WYATT - You really didn't need that SMV emblem when You ran that 72!
Thanks for the picture of the 149.I guess the next step will be paint for my cub. I have rebuilt everything that can be done.loader is held up in the shop, they are to busy to finish. I`ll post a pic when it comes home.Can`t wait to try out that loader. Later Don
Hey guys, I have too much slop in my linkage, specifically where the connecting link (u-shape) connects in the holes which have become wallered-out over time. I see in the FAQ: http://cubfaq.com/hydroslopfix.html
that some later cubs came with the connecting linkage with ball-joints. I am trying to find the part numbers or an altenate way to fix this. The Cub part look-up shows it without the ball joints.
that some later cubs came with the connecting linkage with ball-joints. I am trying to find the part numbers or an altenate way to fix this. The Cub part look-up shows it without the ball joints.
Mitchell, I believe that the 82 series Cubs have the ball joint linkage. Do a Parts Lookup search on a model 782. Not sure if it's a "drop in" replacement or not. Or you could fab one up using tie rod end ball joints. McMaster-Carr sells those ball joints in various configurations.
Hi all i hve a question about ihcc 124 it doesnt like to run at a idel it spits and sputters and dies. its got the 12hp k301 in it
but it runs good from half to wide open ive cleand and rebuilt the carb adjusted the jet to the manual and played with them both way and doest seem to matter then to restart i have to choke it about 4 to 5 cranks then un choke and shell start back up any thought would be great thanks
but it runs good from half to wide open ive cleand and rebuilt the carb adjusted the jet to the manual and played with them both way and doest seem to matter then to restart i have to choke it about 4 to 5 cranks then un choke and shell start back up any thought would be great thanks
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
In the discussion about cleaning parts - I'd caution about using some of the brake-clean products around paint, decals, etc. (or in a confined area for that matter).. The big foil decal on the drive tunnel of the 129 became a victim of brake-clean a few tears ago, when I was squirting some in a switch on the panel above the tunnel. Nice, shiny foil now (no printing)
KENDELL - GOOD advice...
BT-DT.
I also keep spray bottles of Simple Green, Maguires cleaner, soapy water, and straight water in the shop. Only problem I run into is with all My pine trees & bushes I get sap on My paint frequently.... Tough to remove. Even ether barely cuts it!
I also keep spray bottles of Simple Green, Maguires cleaner, soapy water, and straight water in the shop. Only problem I run into is with all My pine trees & bushes I get sap on My paint frequently.... Tough to remove. Even ether barely cuts it!
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
Time to get mowing.
I used the right set of holes for the mule drive didn't I?
I used the right set of holes for the mule drive didn't I?
I have a question for the vibration analysis engineering type regarding the front PTO on the 982 with the original Onan.
While mowing, the sheave and friction disc broke loose from the bearing hub. I have ordered the replacement armatue (as it is called in the parts book) and hope to install it this weekend. The question is what is the function of the "balance weight washer" used on the shoulder bolt that holds the assembly captive on the crankshaft. The washer is lead and appears to be mounted several ounces off center of centerline of the crank. The IH engineers no doubt had a reason to call for it to be installed. It's function is intended for balance of the PTO rotor only I would think since the hub,sheave,disc assy. (armature) are disengaged when the PTO is disengaged. The Kohler manuals do not show a "balance weight washer" as Charlie's recent input showing the installation of the Kohler electric PTO indicates.
The concern is the indexing of the counter weight washer to the crankshaft when the new armature assembly is reinstalled. When removing the captive shoulder bolt for the PTO with a rattle wrench, will the washer remain stationary or rotate with the bolt, thus rotating the index mark that I would scribe on it? I would think it would be necessary to index it the original arc position on the crank that the engineers called for. I don't have any pictorial of just the washer and shoulder bolt other than the parts illustration.
The manual is very vague and when I asked the local IH/Case service manager, he said to just install the unit, put in the bolt and tighten 'er up. Not my style! I have found over the years, the more you understand the problem, the easier and more satisfactory the solution.
This is my first post. I must admit, I have been sitting in the back pew watching since before the "Great Crash" so be easy on an old man.
While mowing, the sheave and friction disc broke loose from the bearing hub. I have ordered the replacement armatue (as it is called in the parts book) and hope to install it this weekend. The question is what is the function of the "balance weight washer" used on the shoulder bolt that holds the assembly captive on the crankshaft. The washer is lead and appears to be mounted several ounces off center of centerline of the crank. The IH engineers no doubt had a reason to call for it to be installed. It's function is intended for balance of the PTO rotor only I would think since the hub,sheave,disc assy. (armature) are disengaged when the PTO is disengaged. The Kohler manuals do not show a "balance weight washer" as Charlie's recent input showing the installation of the Kohler electric PTO indicates.
The concern is the indexing of the counter weight washer to the crankshaft when the new armature assembly is reinstalled. When removing the captive shoulder bolt for the PTO with a rattle wrench, will the washer remain stationary or rotate with the bolt, thus rotating the index mark that I would scribe on it? I would think it would be necessary to index it the original arc position on the crank that the engineers called for. I don't have any pictorial of just the washer and shoulder bolt other than the parts illustration.
The manual is very vague and when I asked the local IH/Case service manager, he said to just install the unit, put in the bolt and tighten 'er up. Not my style! I have found over the years, the more you understand the problem, the easier and more satisfactory the solution.
This is my first post. I must admit, I have been sitting in the back pew watching since before the "Great Crash" so be easy on an old man.
snorris
Active member
Wow, I ask a question one day and the next its almost 2 pages behind! hehe.
Got a few answers for the nice folks that replied:
DENNIS- Thanks for the info about stainless steel, after your info I read up on it and was amazed that there are like 150 different kinds of stainless! I'm not too concerned about hardware store bolts, I never planned to get them there anyway, and if the fastners are more expensive than grade8 type its a worth investment for the longevity of my cadet, I'm sure it will outlive ME. lol
HENRI- The 16hp that was offered to me is an old Kohler K series, so its all cast iron. I wouldn't think of putting an aluminum junk motor on my original cadet!
WYATT- Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure what grade of SS was best for bolts. I'll check into that company you listed. I also have to make up a list of all the bolts and their sizes on the cadet.. that might take some time..
TIM- I'm hoping somebody here knows the nitty gritty info on the S/G units, for example the cranking power of the different versions, and their charging amps. I'm sure there must be a 'best' one out of all the versions that Kohler used.
ART- HUGE thanks for those pictures of the super cadet !! Thats so cool, and I never even thought of putting the gas tank in the front like that, its a brilliant idea. I'm definately going to try for that 16hp if I can get it, the guy hasn't been home, so I haven't seen him again yet. I have one of the super cadet pics set as my wallpaper now to give me inspiration.
BRYON- Dude ! I LOVE your super cadet ! Where did you get that gas tank mounting bracket? or did you home make it ? any chance I could beg/bribe you into making one more ??
I got 2 new rear tires today, Carlisle Super Lugs 23x10.5-12. They are wider than the wheels are made for, but the tire shop got them on ok. They are REALLY stiff, the tire guy had a hard time getting the bead to seat on the cadet wheels. It finally did, or looks like it did and the shop figures they are safe. I wasn't able to find a tube locally for them yet, but so far they are holding air as tubeless. They look great, ten times better than the junky 'lawn tractor' tires that it had when I got it. Price on them was pretty high, $70 each... was that a decent price? or did the tractor shop gouge me ?
Thanks for the help so far guys, its nice knowing I can ask the pro's here anytime I have a question.
Got a few answers for the nice folks that replied:
DENNIS- Thanks for the info about stainless steel, after your info I read up on it and was amazed that there are like 150 different kinds of stainless! I'm not too concerned about hardware store bolts, I never planned to get them there anyway, and if the fastners are more expensive than grade8 type its a worth investment for the longevity of my cadet, I'm sure it will outlive ME. lol
HENRI- The 16hp that was offered to me is an old Kohler K series, so its all cast iron. I wouldn't think of putting an aluminum junk motor on my original cadet!
WYATT- Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure what grade of SS was best for bolts. I'll check into that company you listed. I also have to make up a list of all the bolts and their sizes on the cadet.. that might take some time..
TIM- I'm hoping somebody here knows the nitty gritty info on the S/G units, for example the cranking power of the different versions, and their charging amps. I'm sure there must be a 'best' one out of all the versions that Kohler used.
ART- HUGE thanks for those pictures of the super cadet !! Thats so cool, and I never even thought of putting the gas tank in the front like that, its a brilliant idea. I'm definately going to try for that 16hp if I can get it, the guy hasn't been home, so I haven't seen him again yet. I have one of the super cadet pics set as my wallpaper now to give me inspiration.
BRYON- Dude ! I LOVE your super cadet ! Where did you get that gas tank mounting bracket? or did you home make it ? any chance I could beg/bribe you into making one more ??
I got 2 new rear tires today, Carlisle Super Lugs 23x10.5-12. They are wider than the wheels are made for, but the tire shop got them on ok. They are REALLY stiff, the tire guy had a hard time getting the bead to seat on the cadet wheels. It finally did, or looks like it did and the shop figures they are safe. I wasn't able to find a tube locally for them yet, but so far they are holding air as tubeless. They look great, ten times better than the junky 'lawn tractor' tires that it had when I got it. Price on them was pretty high, $70 each... was that a decent price? or did the tractor shop gouge me ?
Thanks for the help so far guys, its nice knowing I can ask the pro's here anytime I have a question.
I am looking for a part that is listed as no longer available through CC dealers. The part I am looking for is the top spindle nut/grease fitting for the center pulley on a IH 42 inch rotary mower. The part number I came up with is IH 473435-R2. Anybody know where I can get this part or what I can do to hold the pulley to the spindle if it is no longer available? There are no ID labels left on the mower deck but I found a picture of the spindle and the part number of the nut/grease fitting listed on a 3260 deck diagram. It is most likely the original deck mounted to my 69 CC 124 tractor.
David in Dayton, TX
David in Dayton, TX
DavidMcNair,if you hunt hi&lo and find a cub dealer who has been in the game since the I.H. days you might get lucky and find those. my guy in Irvington Ky; seems to have and endless supply of those hard to find maintenance parts. Happy hunting
