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Archive through May 07, 2009
- Thread starter hsimon
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hugh,
The answer to your question from the other day is, It's free.
The answer to your question from the other day is, It's free.
klejeune
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2007
- Messages
- 477
- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
Jerry B,
Like was said before, I just use some good pliers and a couple twists of the wrist to make the z bends in the cable wire.
I finally got the 124 running this week. A little smokey, but it's clearing up every time I run it. Only thing is that it won't shift into 2nd or 3rd. I'll have to pull that apart one day and see what's up.
Like was said before, I just use some good pliers and a couple twists of the wrist to make the z bends in the cable wire.
I finally got the 124 running this week. A little smokey, but it's clearing up every time I run it. Only thing is that it won't shift into 2nd or 3rd. I'll have to pull that apart one day and see what's up.
Hi Gang,
I posted some pictures of the '61 Original that I just purchased and I need a little info in regards to the mower deck. This deck is the 'timing belt type' and I am looking for a service manual for it plus one for the whole tractor.
I checked with the local Cub Dealer and he could not find any listing for any kind of service manual, but he has only been in business for about 3 yrs. Any help would be very cool!
Thanks,
Rod
[email protected]
I posted some pictures of the '61 Original that I just purchased and I need a little info in regards to the mower deck. This deck is the 'timing belt type' and I am looking for a service manual for it plus one for the whole tractor.
Thanks,
Rod
[email protected]
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
mgonitzke
Well-known member
cgraninger
Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2009
- Messages
- 19
- displayname
- charles graninger
Are the shifting forks the same for an original and a 128?
Tkeefe,
Wow you've got that many teeth missing?
I just have one or two missing on three different gears. A broken fork as well. And the topper, a bent main transmission shaft.
Tkeefe,
Wow you've got that many teeth missing?
I just have one or two missing on three different gears. A broken fork as well. And the topper, a bent main transmission shaft.
Shifting forks should be the same for all the gear drive Cubs that have the cast iron 3 speed transmission.
This board is awesome! I just had to say that. Now that I have my two IH cubs, I look at what sears, homedepot has to offwe and think they are crap compared to my 40 year old machines. Its nice to know there is a support group.
lchockensmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2008
- Messages
- 47
- displayname
- Lucas Craig Hockensmith
Hey guys, 95% done with the redo on original. Just have the wiring and fluids left to do. The mower deck is at the weld shop getting fixed now, and hopefully we'll be putting around soon enough.
Lucas, looking good!
cgraninger
Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2009
- Messages
- 19
- displayname
- charles graninger
Thanks kraig
I had all the manuals for my 126 and 128
but couldn't be sure forks were the same as an original;
thought they were but didn't know.
You guys are great by the way...reading over
posts and FAQ helped me to feel
I could work on my cubs and
not screw up too badly.
It's only been a couple of years
since I learned about carbs and gas
sitting around gumming things up.
Now I got a transmission opened up.
Thanks
I had all the manuals for my 126 and 128
but couldn't be sure forks were the same as an original;
thought they were but didn't know.
You guys are great by the way...reading over
posts and FAQ helped me to feel
I could work on my cubs and
not screw up too badly.
It's only been a couple of years
since I learned about carbs and gas
sitting around gumming things up.
Now I got a transmission opened up.
Thanks
Hey all,
New to posting here but I've been a long time occasional reader. Great site!!!
I purchased a 1606 (basically a 582) with creeper drive. I'm working on collecting things to make the tractor useful around the house and I have a few thoughts on my mind as I'm making plans...
I have a collection of sleeve hitch implements and most of the parts to add a sleeve hitch before I realized it wouldn't be wise to mount the factory sleeve hitch to the aluminum axle housing. I have a bottom plow, grader blade, harrow and sub soiler so far. Aaron sells an extreme sleeve hitch bracket with extra bracing that looks like a great idea. But is it enough to protect the aluminum housing from possible damage or should I really shell out the $ for a 3pt? Do you sometimes have to use non-matching holes on the sleeve hitch bracket (like the 1st one down on the left side and the 2nd one down on the right to tilt the implement)? How does this work with double bracket holes? Are there significant advantages of a 3pt over a sleeve hitch? Even if I wind up using the sleeve hitch adapter?
Now to make things more complicated...
I also have a QA42A snow thrower that needs a bit of work. My thought was that a combination of the thrower on the front and a grader blade facing rearwards on the back would make a great combination to move snow off of my 175ft driveway up here in the Buffalo NY area. But to pull this off, you would want to lift both implements independently. Which got me thinking about an electric sleeve hitch lift, but I haven't seen one on a Cub Cadet yet. Anybody with any experience / thoughts on this?
I was going to do some work on my 50C mower deck. It needs a bit of welding. What are the best blades to get for it? Right now I mulch with a beat Craftsman tractor w/ 42" deck and mulch blades. I prefer mulching the grass up as fine as possible. Are there any tweaks for a 50C deck to improve performance (other than currently posted leveling tweaks) that really work on dense grass? I recall seeing Gator blades available but my dealer said the blades spin too slow to work well?
I drained my creeper drive and what poured out looked like 90 weight gear oil... Manual calls for Hytran. A local Cub dealer gave me "Hydraulic / Transmission Fluid" part# 737-3025 that doesn't say HyTran anywhere on the bottle. Is this the right stuff? Checking the 3 spd. manual tranny, it looks like it might be 90 weight as well. I'm comparing the 737-3025 fluid to what was in there. It has been a bit tough to sync the gears to be able to shift.
Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm eager to put my 1606 to work but I'm a newbie with many questions... I know that this is the place to tap a wealth of experience...
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jeff
New to posting here but I've been a long time occasional reader. Great site!!!
I purchased a 1606 (basically a 582) with creeper drive. I'm working on collecting things to make the tractor useful around the house and I have a few thoughts on my mind as I'm making plans...
I have a collection of sleeve hitch implements and most of the parts to add a sleeve hitch before I realized it wouldn't be wise to mount the factory sleeve hitch to the aluminum axle housing. I have a bottom plow, grader blade, harrow and sub soiler so far. Aaron sells an extreme sleeve hitch bracket with extra bracing that looks like a great idea. But is it enough to protect the aluminum housing from possible damage or should I really shell out the $ for a 3pt? Do you sometimes have to use non-matching holes on the sleeve hitch bracket (like the 1st one down on the left side and the 2nd one down on the right to tilt the implement)? How does this work with double bracket holes? Are there significant advantages of a 3pt over a sleeve hitch? Even if I wind up using the sleeve hitch adapter?
Now to make things more complicated...
I also have a QA42A snow thrower that needs a bit of work. My thought was that a combination of the thrower on the front and a grader blade facing rearwards on the back would make a great combination to move snow off of my 175ft driveway up here in the Buffalo NY area. But to pull this off, you would want to lift both implements independently. Which got me thinking about an electric sleeve hitch lift, but I haven't seen one on a Cub Cadet yet. Anybody with any experience / thoughts on this?
I was going to do some work on my 50C mower deck. It needs a bit of welding. What are the best blades to get for it? Right now I mulch with a beat Craftsman tractor w/ 42" deck and mulch blades. I prefer mulching the grass up as fine as possible. Are there any tweaks for a 50C deck to improve performance (other than currently posted leveling tweaks) that really work on dense grass? I recall seeing Gator blades available but my dealer said the blades spin too slow to work well?
I drained my creeper drive and what poured out looked like 90 weight gear oil... Manual calls for Hytran. A local Cub dealer gave me "Hydraulic / Transmission Fluid" part# 737-3025 that doesn't say HyTran anywhere on the bottle. Is this the right stuff? Checking the 3 spd. manual tranny, it looks like it might be 90 weight as well. I'm comparing the 737-3025 fluid to what was in there. It has been a bit tough to sync the gears to be able to shift.
Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm eager to put my 1606 to work but I'm a newbie with many questions... I know that this is the place to tap a wealth of experience...
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jeff
Seth,
Any mower on the market can do a poor job of mowing grass. It is hugely dependent on the operator of the mower! And Maintenance of the mower, especially sharpening the blades!
I just serviced a 4 year old Crapsman that was very dirty, and in rather poor condition, it has a 48" deck and it mowed like crap. I bet I took 20 pounds of old grass/leaves/crap out/off of it.
But tonight or tomorrow I'll test it before delivering it back and it will mow wonderfully.
Back on the subject it's no longer casual Wednesday... I'll be working with the 100 Loader tractor this weekend plus finishing plowing my Sweet Corn patch with the 122, discing with the 104. Plus I'll mow with my 382!
Plow day in Western Wisconsin is next weekend - Sunday the 17th !!!!!!!!
Any mower on the market can do a poor job of mowing grass. It is hugely dependent on the operator of the mower! And Maintenance of the mower, especially sharpening the blades!
I just serviced a 4 year old Crapsman that was very dirty, and in rather poor condition, it has a 48" deck and it mowed like crap. I bet I took 20 pounds of old grass/leaves/crap out/off of it.
But tonight or tomorrow I'll test it before delivering it back and it will mow wonderfully.
Back on the subject it's no longer casual Wednesday... I'll be working with the 100 Loader tractor this weekend plus finishing plowing my Sweet Corn patch with the 122, discing with the 104. Plus I'll mow with my 382!
Plow day in Western Wisconsin is next weekend - Sunday the 17th !!!!!!!!
JEFF - Welcome to IHCUBCADET.COM. I don't have any experience with tractors as new as Your 1606. I will say that the alum. rearends have been discussed here and that even the garden tractor pullers use them so they must not be too weak. I remember seeing Aaron's sleeve hitch adapter bracket, catches about five rear cover bolts instead of three. Anything You can do to disburse stress over a greater area is a good thing. There's not really too many attachments for IH's 3-point hitch for the Cub Cadet, most things are for the sleeve hitch.
I tried Your idea of a snow blower in front and a blade in back MANY years ago....in the 1980's. It ends up making the tractor V-E-R-Y L-O-N-G and difficult to maneuver. And being from Buffalo, wouldn't a B-I-G CAT endloader be a better choice for removing snow?
General opinion here is that Gator Blades work great on 50C decks. On the gear oil for the creeper & transmission, if the tractor is tough to shift with Thick oil in it with the new thinner oil it will only get harder. I think You need some clutch adjustments. Not sure how the oil Your dealer sold You compares to Hy-Tran, but those old 3-speeds were pretty tolerant of whatever is used to lubricate them. The CUB transmission was designed in the 1940's to be lubed with 90 weight, and I don't think much was changed. I would keep watch for strange noises and other bad signs from the creeper & transmission. I think it's kinda odd that someone would put that thick of oil in a gear case that they drained thin oil out of. I'm afraid someone was trying to cover up a problem.
I tried Your idea of a snow blower in front and a blade in back MANY years ago....in the 1980's. It ends up making the tractor V-E-R-Y L-O-N-G and difficult to maneuver. And being from Buffalo, wouldn't a B-I-G CAT endloader be a better choice for removing snow?
General opinion here is that Gator Blades work great on 50C decks. On the gear oil for the creeper & transmission, if the tractor is tough to shift with Thick oil in it with the new thinner oil it will only get harder. I think You need some clutch adjustments. Not sure how the oil Your dealer sold You compares to Hy-Tran, but those old 3-speeds were pretty tolerant of whatever is used to lubricate them. The CUB transmission was designed in the 1940's to be lubed with 90 weight, and I don't think much was changed. I would keep watch for strange noises and other bad signs from the creeper & transmission. I think it's kinda odd that someone would put that thick of oil in a gear case that they drained thin oil out of. I'm afraid someone was trying to cover up a problem.
