Archive through May 06, 2010

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - Same thing here on my CC's. No REALLY hot exh. manifolds. The straight pipe I put on the K321 was aluminized steel. Normally pretty heat resistant, and I even had SON TIG weld it to the flange to bolt to the exh. port. Except for a little rust right around the weld it doesn't show much heat "Distress" even after 150 hrs of running. But then knocking the tops off a little bit of crabgrass & a few dandelions in the yard last summer wasn't a real BIG load with a 38" deck.

Did You read the article Gerry posted in my IH Ramblings O/T thread from the other day? Farmall Super M with M&W pistons would heat up not only the exh. manifold but the 2" dia black iron pipe and bottom of the muffler on an SM pulling hard after several hours. And people wonder why they can't find an M/SM/400/450 cyl. head that isn't cracked around the exh. ports anymore!?!?!?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Calvin, the breather assembly is probably OK. Check the drain back hole(s) in the block inside the valve spring cavity.

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK C. - Your CC's rear wheels are on correctly. The wheels on the other tractor are "reversable" and are set in the "Narrow" position.

But then you KNEW that didn't you!

 

[fcurrier]

Dennis: Not really. (But I thought I did).

It's the placement of the valve stems - I like 'em on the outside, but these that would go on the inside are better for dual wheels.
Calvin: That last piece of breather comes off - it looks like it's pretty well RTV'd on there: If you take the stud-bolt out that holds it all on it's easier.

 

[sbauer]

Has anyone had any problems with any 82 series Cubs over heating. Mine did this last year and again last night. It just stopped on a hot day while i was mowing last year and then just the other night it bogged down while mowing and stopped. I waited a few minutes and it started right up and ran great. any help would be great.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Frank

What are you doing with all that green?

Just got the Cub hauler back from the welder. I made a few inprovements to it. No more worries about ramps moving around. They are welded fast, We welded 5/8 reed bar the full length up 1" for a place to tie down tractors. The ramps are 4' long and I have 3' extensions also that can be added if needed.

Charlie

You have SNOW in the forcast

. It must be 72 deg here lol. I don`t have my snow blower back together so I can`t help.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, check for obstructions behind the sheet metal housing around the engine. Could be a mouse nest or just accumulated grass and dirt. Also check that the carb is not set too lean. Make sure you run full throttle when mowing as air cooled engines need the RPMs to move the cooling air via the flywheel.

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK - Inside tires on a tractor with duals are O-K with valve stems on the outside, or between the duals. You already have the "Spare tire"on to get you back home to the shop.

The idea behind the reversable wheels was to widen track to allow operating on steep hillsides. I think that was only possible with the widest mower decks however. Most ground engaging operations were to be done in the narrow position.

There was ONE wheel I used to buy at FARMALL that had two valve stem holes. Unfortunately it was a wheel that the only type tire I used on it was "Tubeless". Tubeless valve stems were hard enough to keep from leaking at low rear tractor tire inflation pressures but the plug Engineering chose was Impossible to keep from leaking. I showed Assembly & Engineering what they needed to use, or told them they needed to use tube-type tires in that size like almost every other rear tire (only 15.5 x 38 & 18.4 X 34 where tubeless, this wheel was for 18.4 x 34's) but was voted DOWN on my idea to reduce rework! ;-(

 

[gsmyth]

Reassembly after PTO side oil seal. After much cleanup I’m ready to start my 1450. Before installing muffler and shrouds etc. I did the reassembly as I think I read indicated by the service manual. Set .010 between the field coil and the driven disc. Tightened the four stud bolts. Placed the driven disc on the driving hub and have a clearance of .065 all around. Placed the brake flange on the stud bolts with the springs and tightened the brake flange. In the four “windows” I have clearance of .062. However there is a slight rub when tightened to .060. Should there be a rub of anything or should it spin freely? If I loosen the bolts I can get a free spin, but a clearance less than .060 freezes it tightly, I think, to the brake flange. Do I want contact of any type? Also the .010 between the driven face of the rotor and the driving hub. Do I check that behind the brake flange? Is that the contact I’m hearing? The .010 it asks for is puzzling to me because I'm not sure where to look. The service manual shows a picture through the brake flange window, but that gap is .060 to .090 correct? I don't need to screw up now.

 

[kide]

Kraig and Dennis:
(OT) Turbo Capri?? If I decide that I don't have enough projects, my son has my dad's '79 Turbo that Cobra he bought new....It has ---- uhhhh, "issues", like rust and the headliner falling down, but I've always thought that engine would fit right in my Ranger.. BTW - if you've got deep enough pockets, you can build a new 427 cammer now (check Hot Rod mag, last few months)..

Ryan W:
Don't hold yer breath, I warmed up the camera, but I'm waiting till crappy weather this weekend to split the 129.....

 

[bnolte]

Ryan W.
I have had the flywheel screen come loose on me. The screen material can get bent and fatigue around the mounting holes, there really isn't much material securing it to the drive hub. A new screen is probably best, if you try to reuse the old screen you will need to try and find a place to put the new holes where there is "solid" metal. Madson's got a couple of decent ones for me give them a try if you can't salvage the current screen.

 

[rwilke]

Gerry I.,
Not to worry - as I'm not holding my breath.

I've got to get my 127 off the operating table first anyway (engine is out).

Bruce N.,
Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking that I had heard/read of that happening before with somebody's Cub.
I'd have to be real lucky though, for it to be something that simple.
The way my luck usually goes is that Murphy's Law rules the roost around here!

Thanks Guys!
Ryan Wilke

 

[rnajecki]

Is there a new Cub Cadet book? I thought I seen it pictured on this forum a few weeks ago, but didn't find it using the search. I've got Ken Updike's (red jacket) Farmall Cub & Cub Cadet and his (yellow jacket) Original FC&CC book.

If there is a new book, does it have anything not already in Updike's books?

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - '79 Turbo Cobra? Sounds like a FOX body Mustang? That's kinda what Kraig's Turbo Capri was/IS, except a Mercury of course. Wyatt bought it with intentions of racing SCCA Parking Lot.
I bet if We ask Kraig he's still got pic's of it ( I;ve seen them here before!) I hate to tell Kraig but last time I saw his old Capri the plan was to install a HUGE water cooler for the air-to-water intercooler, so if Wyatt offered Him a ride he'd have to sit in the back seat!

SON & I used to get Ford's Motorsport catalogs every couple years. FMC makes a LOT of neat stuff. Years ago when NASCAR Busch class racing ran V-6 engines Motorsport made a super-duty 4.5L V-6 that would have been a nice engine. 90 Deg. V-6, alum. block. Kinda like the old 225 Buick V-6's on Steroids!

They even made "Drag Race Only heads for the 300-6 truck engine. No cooling passages. ;-(

Well, to keep this ON topic, mowed this PM W/982. 2-1/2 to 3 hrs. I gotta trim some more trees & bushes.

 

[kswingle]

Hi, Every one I have just rebuilt a carbuerator for a 1650 cub cadet and I just can't seem to get it adjusted right? I am not sure of the settings. If any one can help, it will be greatly appreciated.

 

[digger]

Karl S.
Try this for initial settings and fine tune from there,
http://cubfaq.com/carbsetting.html

 

[fcurrier]

Roy: This one by Oscar "Hank" Will III, maybe?
Great book! Not really new.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary S., sure wish I knew enough about the electric PTO to answer your query.

All my Cubs have the old mechanical type PTO. Hopefully someone will help you out.

Calvin, bad news looks like I sent the breather cover to Don along with the rest of the breather assembly I sent him. Good news is I have another one and it has fresh paint.

Let me know if you need it.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Thanks again for that breather assembly for the 125 and just as soon as Charlie sends me a new piston I will have it running again.That will mean all my cubs will be usable and might have to put a deck on it to see how it is mowing

 

[dkwalker]

Scott/Marty/Don,

Many thanks for the pictures. I played with this at length tonight at the problem appears to be with the deck height adjustment stop assembly to hydraulic cylinder.

To the best of my knowledge, the roll pins look okay. If you rotate the stop all of the way up (like you would to use a front blade) the deck will pickup and lower evenly, no problems. The problem begins when you go to use the deck stop.

When you lower the deck on the stop, the right side lift over travels just a bit even though the deck doesnt move because it is rested on the stop. Then, when you go to pickup the deck it raises the right (passenger side) first and gets the deck off level.

I realize the hydraulic cylinder moves all of the way to a closed position if you hold your hand on the lever but it should not move the lift, correct?

The problem is something loose where the hydraulic cylinder attaches to the pickup I believe. Possible rollpin but I doubt it, it works too good without the stop enguaged..dead on level up and down.

Do you have another drawing showing how the assembly on the end of the hydraulic cylinder goes together?


It is kind of difficult to explain. Anyone know of someone good around the Dallas/Fort Worth area that knows the old cub cadets?