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Archive through August 09, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
WAYNE - My exh. port wasn't broken. It was just a situation where pipe threads, nipples & couplings don't make for real smooth exhaust flow IMHO. SON & I made my straight pipe from a 1-1/2" OD "J" Bend from Summit racing & my home-made header flange. I think Kraig may have a pic or two in his files. I think it actually turned out rather nice.

Somehow or another the face of the port has to be made flat, welding & JB Weld are not options, WAY too much heat. If you can chase the threads, 1" NPT I think they are, you may be able to reuse the threads without having to face off the exh. port but the elbow or whatever fitting would probably leak and may not stay tight.

A machine shop should be able to face off the port but I really have no idea how they would be able to clamp the assembled engine into a mill tight enough to get a decent surface finish. Plus there's so much "Stuff" in the way, like the carb/air filter, governor arm, etc. The new machined surface would have to be flat and perpendicular with the small tapped holes or the threaded pipe thread hole, which ever you chose to use.

How thick are the actual fragments that flaked off? They look about 1/8" to 3/16" thk.
 

cstouffer

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Dec 1, 2009
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Corey Stouffer
hey guys, can anyone direct me towards some advice on divin out the front axle pin-roll pin?,,,,i tried heating it up, and ive tryed several different punches, and broke most of them,,,,any ideas or stuff that you guys have done to get this thing out?,,,,,btw, i am workin on a 1966 cub 71 narrow frame,,,,,,thanks for your time guys i apreciate it!
 

dtanner

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Donald Tanner
chris rolke
Well i see a pto on the rear and I would say that is a 100 Cub hood on there. Nice find .I had a long wait to find the covers for the spindles on my O mower deck and see yours are also missing. I think Kraig M sent me a few pictures of measurements so I could make a set . I did find a set on evilbay and have them now to put on my O when I restore it this fall. I love to see Cubs refurbed as I think they will be around longer than me. Nice tractor
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ljones

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Jan 15, 2010
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Kentucky
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Lucas Jones
Terry, thanks for the blueprints.

Kraig got any more pics of that cub it looks like it has alot more custom parts ?

That cub looks LOUD
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mgwin

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Marty A. Gwin
Corey,
Make sure you have the rollpin exactly lined up with the hole. I had one on my 70 that was off to one side just a hair, and I thought I would never get it out. Another thing; make sure you have the correct size punch.Too small of a punch, and it will wedge inside the rollpin. One too large, and you can forget trying to drive out the pin. A nice sized hammer helps too. Claw hammers don't do so well.
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dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
THANK-YOU KRAIG! That's them!

LUCAS - LOUD is Relative. Even when I'm working that CC a bit, headphones on listening to Metallica I can still hear Harley's and the neigbor's Cummins powered pickup drive by when I'm in the back yard 400 feet from the road.
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The hole in the flange is actually more oval with two flat sides to give room for the capscrews. The tubing was deformed a bit, tapped thru the center hole, then formed into a bell-shape in the hole, welded 360 deg inside and about 300 degrees around the outside. Seems like I had some very small head socket head capscrews that fit those tapped holes.

If I remember right it's 24 inches from the head of the exh. valve to the end of the pipe, a little short for the application actually, but it's bigger than the 1-3/8" dia it's supposed to be so the volume is close. And it does get the heat out of the engine really well.
 

nmassimi

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Aug 4, 2010
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Nicholas Massimi
I was wondering. I'm having a carburetor link trouble with a 582 special because of the rubber rivet is loose. anyone know if I can take off the rivet and replace it to tighten the link?
(rivet circled in red)
195224.jpg
 

afoes

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Arvin John Foes
Wayne,

You could grind off the surface so that is even. Then just retap the existing threaded area. Pipe taps are tapered and you should be able to pick up the existing thread and just thread the tap in deeper. Usually you need to thread a pipe tap in at least 2/3 of the length threaded area of the tap. Take your time use plenty of oil and I would recommend placing something back inside the port so that chips and such don't get into the cylinder.

Arvin
 

nmassimi

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Nicholas Massimi
You didn't tell me if I could replace it or not. It IS the rivet that is the problem. I put a lock washer around the rivet and the tractor ran perfect until the vibrations of the engine started to loosen it off and the engine wanted to stall out when in low throttle.
 

wshytle

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May 18, 2009
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Wayne Shytle
Thanks Arvin-I've had visions of what I will need to go through and even planned to cram a rag in the port before tapping or grinding. I have already tried to clean the threads and before that I felt the valve shaft as I was turning the crank (after removing plug) until it opened. Then I just blew through the plug hole. I just don't want to have to disassemble a good engine right now. Too much other stuff going on.

Alright guys-

Here's the coil I posted and never got an answer about. Does the fact this coil is for electronic ig. mean it doesn't have the internal resistor. The po had it just wired so he could crank it, not run it.

195232.jpg


Thanks to any and all and excuse my ignorance.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Wayne - you didn't think that Cub would follow you home without having something for you to do did you??? Sorry I've never had that exhaust port issue, but I lean towards Arvin's suggestion, to chase the pipe threads and likely add a few, and see how the pipe elbow fits. They never fit very snug in my experience and the collar snugs/locks it in the correct position to connect the muffler (and they almost always leak a bit at least around the connection to the muffler. You might still have to grind off part of the existing block to even it up somewhat, but just as with the pipe threader, do it carefully and slowly, and make sure you keep your starter threads. With a little time consumming careful effort I'll bet you can get it to look like nothing ever happened. Also, as Arvin noted I'd put something inside the port to keep fine chips from getting to far inside - I don't think they would get all the way to the cylinder, but you never know. I don't think it would be to dangerous to run it a real short period after you've got the threads added, to blow out any little fine slivers/chips. Also, there must be something around that you could put on the pipe threads to help seal it when you're ready for finally install. It' can't be something that gets rock hard since you'll need to be able to remove the pipe in the future. Keep us informed and post some pics as you proceed.
(under edit) I don't know the answer on the coil.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and the Koher K's just keep on working)
 

mgonitzke

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Matt Gonitzke
Nicholas M.-

According to the parts lookup, you'd have to buy most of the carb to get that piece. If it stalls at low throttle, you need to check the mixture settings on the carb and possibly the low-speed stop, too. I have a 580 (same as 582S, just yellow) and the linkage is worn on that too, and it starts, runs, and idles just fine, and can be made to idle very slowly if it's warm. What you did probably bound up the linkage enough to hold the throttle open a little further. The worn linkage MAY be exacerbating the problem, but is highly unlikely to be the cause.
 

wshytle

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Wayne Shytle
Harry-

There are plenty of threads left inside the port so tapping is my next step. I've been wanting to buy that tap anyway so now there's ample reason. I am hoping I can get by with cleaning the threads and just screwing the elbow in maybe a couple of threads deeper. I realize this will get the muffler a little closer to the starter belt and pulley but hopefully it will work. As long as it clears I would think it would work and the muffler will keep the elbow from turning. I don't have enough flat surface for the lock nut/ring to work properly. If anyone knows of an adhesive that works in extreme temps please let me know. I would see nothing wrong with gluing the pieces back on since they do fit tight. I don't think this is an option though. Here's the pic I took of the flakes again.

195235.jpg
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Wayne - one thing you could do instead of grinding off the block, is make up a washer of your own, that is thick on one side where the chips broke off the block, and thin on the other side where it didn't break. If the chips were 1/4" I guess that you'd start with a piece of 1/4 steel, drill the hole for the pipe to slip thru, cut it or grind it into an oval shape similar to being used with a flange, and then start grinding down on the half where the block is not cracked off. YOu should be able to still use the screw on lock nut as long as the pipe doesn't screw in to much farther. Probably judge this better after you've added the internal pipe threads. Maybe you only need to use 3/16" or 1/8" steel to make the washer.

Good luck and post lots of pics.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (ya just gotta keep working on them)
 

kphill

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Jul 14, 2008
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Grove City, Pa.
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Kevin Hill
Wayne, That coil looks to be for a late 70s-early 80s Mopar with electronic ignition. It will burn your points out in short order on your cub. You will need to find the correct coil..
 

T-Mo

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Jan 22, 2009
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Terry Reed
Nicholas,
I'm no mechanic, but I totally agree with Matt. When you put the washer on the linkage to tighten it up, it actually "set" the throttle a little higher so it wasn't really idling. You need to adjust the carburetor so it will idle at low rpms like it should.
 

kphill

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Kevin Hill
Well, Now that show season is pretty much over,I put the mower deck back on the 169 and now it is time to earn its keep. It seems to be vibrating a lot less since I removed the balance gears. A lot smoother.. Good for another 35 years!
195240.jpg
 

dtanner

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Donald Tanner
Wayne Shytle
You will need to buy a bottoming tap ( threads cut to the bottom) and to get the chips out that is easy also.Break out the center of a spark plug and mig in a fitting for an air tool. The rest is simple. add air to the cylinder as you cut the threads and back the tap out often so all the little chips can be blown away. Worked for me BTDT
 

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