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Archive through March 30, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kent,
I know those PTO's can be a S.O.B. to get off, but think of this and you'll have a better outlook on the whole thing. Just think of the episode of the Three Stooges when Curly had the tooth ache. You're gonna' need a good heavy string and a BIG door to slam.
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Need some help from the experts. On a Cub 149 I noticed a leak coming from the rearaxle on the left side where the axle housing bolts up to the differential housing. Never had the rearend apart and wondering if you can unbolt the axle housing from the differential just to replace that gasket without causing a bunch of trouble? Is there a list of things to do/watch for when doing this?
 
Kent, good luck with the pto. I just finished pulling one on my 129. I had to drill out the set screws as they were ALL stripped out. After that, a big puller and big ratchet did the trick. The bearing is oblonged .05! I guess it is time to go visit the colored boxes.
 
Kraig-
Sorry for the "20 email" comment. No harm intended...

Steve-
Nice fence! Is that to keep the kids in, or the green out?
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Wyatt-
I'd love to see a picture of that PTO puller!
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Hi everyone. I know I haven't posted in awhile. Still adjusting to the four/ten hour days (with supposed to have Friday's off) job I have at Sauer Danfoss through Manpower. It is good to be working again even if it is only temporary. It is nice to know they use Hy tran as their oil of preference. Anyway before I go to bed... on the gasket material if'n I remember correctly Rich C. uses neopreme and not neoprene when he makes his gasket for the hydro. Big difference in what is in the material.

I am hoping on having the 104 up and running for Plow Day. It won't look pretty since I am putting refurbishing off for awhile. I gotta figure out how to cut an old piece of railroad track into some front weights and mount them. Also, put chains on the turf tires. I'm also looking forward to meeting more of all the great people on the forum. (Now off to bed.)
 
Roger B. -

Before you go tearing it apart, try just tightening the bolts that hold the axle housings to the trans. These like to work themselves loose sometimes, causing everything from leaks to flaky hydros...
 
OK guys...I'll get that
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thing off one way or another tonight. Thanks!

(Message edited by kshultz on March 31, 2004)
 
KENT - I pulled a PTO Sunday aft. that had rusted onto the pilot bearing pretty good. Little PB Blaster, My small 2-finger gear puller, 6" cresant wrench, & My 12 Oz. ball peen hammer for a couple small taps and it came right off. Used the puller on the pilot bearing too. The BIG problem was the S/G pulley w/ the PTO drive cone. No way to get a puller on that flimsey stamped steel pulley but it finally couldn't resist My efforts. On the PTO clutch the steel pin in the center that the fiber/brass button pushes against to release the clutch eventually bottoms out on the end of the crankshaft, and since Your 3-point spring is already broken You need a rebuild kit for the PTO anyhow. The flywheel also tried to resist popping off but a harmonic balancer puller & My 1/2" impact changed it's mind.
 
This is my first post. I have a cub cadet 1000. I have had battery recharging issues for 3yrs now. I think these tactors were designed without alternators. Someone with an answer please tell me if and how this can be fixed.
 
Beau,
IF your wiring harness is like my 1650, (others please verify) I would replace your keyswitch. International designed the wiring so the charging current passed through one of the contacts inside the switch and that contact is now bad. I believe they did this to help prevent the battery from running down when the tractor is not running. I also would check your wiring for loose and/or bad connections while your at it. If this does not solve it then.....repost.
Seth
 
Beau- Welcome to the forum!

Have you had the battery checked? Most L&G batteries won't last 3 years due to vibration etc.

Check out Kohler.com to download the manual for you engine (K241AQS). Your motor has a stator behind the flywheel to provide the juice. You may also want to check your voltage regulator on the right side (from seat) of the tractor. Flat black piece, 3 spade terminals out 1 side. That could be bad not allowing voltage to charge your battery.
 
Beau-
A little homework for you...
17340.jpg

Here's a wiring diagram of your machine. Go ahead and clean every terminal at the end of each wire. Have your battery load tested to make sure it's good, then think about mechanical problems as Seth or Ryan suggested. That's good info!
 
Bryan, here's the chain and yank method from the archives:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Jim Steele on May 20, 2002:


OK, Kraig, you take a long chain and wrap it around the PTO pulley groove. Use a bolt and nut through the chain to tighten it into the groove. If all the set screws are out, you should be able to whip the chain and the PTO clutch casting will come right off.

If not all screws are out, or if it's real stuck, then use a U-shaped loop of chain from one side of the piece fastened in the pulley groove to the other. Then attach a chain to the center of that loop, and hook it to a second CC or truck. Chock the wheels and lock the brake of the sick CC, then jerk the chain taught with yer pull machine. Last resort, but it works.

Best way to help it off is to spray Blaster from Wally World into each set screw hole and let it do its magic first.

Chain trick was learned from a helluva Cub Cadet man named McGiver. Don't see him on here much anymore.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
It was one year ago today that I lost my youngest brother, Kent. :eek:(

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Kraig,
my condolences on the anniversary of this tragic loss. it's hard to believe a year has gone by. hang in there.
~ Nate
 
Kraig your in my thoughts and prayers...

Charlie any new numbers on the plow day yet?
 
Kraig: All I can say is, I'm sorry. Still hurts, doesn't it?

Here is a pic from the software I used to design my front weight bracket. Really cool software for free! And I don't mean shareware either.
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Hi from a Canadian newbie,
I have just recieved on Monday a 1974 IH cub cadet 109 hydrostatic that was on its way to the scrap yard ("moto" I will save any IH from death) so the price was FREE.I'm not a mechanic but have some common sense so replaced oil,freed up tight engine,cleaned fuel tank & line, new battery & points & solenoid, cleaned up some grounds put in a key (my 62 scout 80 key fit nicely)no start!check for power, good to points, good to sol but nothing to starter. I did jump from bat to starter & the beast came to life so now have a runner.Ya Hoo For now I have a couple ques.can i just use a universal ign switch & what is that nuetral safty? & can I by-pass that. Oh 1 more a carb kit part num.I have no IH parts stores hear & rental shop will take all my money quikly.TIA Don
 

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