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Archive through March 30, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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WFM Plow Day
44 participants
34 Plowing
2 Selling
7 Spectators
24 John Deere tractors
39 Cub Cadet tractors
5 Other tractors

(Message edited by cProctor on March 31, 2004)
 
I crawled out of my hole to find you guys a neat trick ...

<blink>ATTENTION</blink>
I tried the link on rust removal today .... let the pics speak !

17353.jpg

17354.jpg

17355.jpg


Link to rust removal page

Looks like it leaves a black oxide finish , which I bought 5 gallons of a couple years ago. I used hot water and Cascade.


<sub>crawling back in now</sub>
 
You know the old saying, "If it looks simple, it probably will not be". I am helping someone get his 1450 running better that he just bought. I went to pull the carb today which was a 5 minute job. While I was there, I tried putting the 2 missing bolts that mount the engine to the frame rails. I found out the reason they were missing is because they were broke off. 20 minutes later the engine is in the trunk of my car and on the way home with me. It had been this way for a while because the bottom of the pan is wore a little round. By having the engine loose for so long, it also ruined the opposite side rear motor mount. All the rest look fine but one is shot. A little drilling and an easy out has it ready to go back in. But first it will get the carb soaked and cleaned. The tractor itself looks real good. It still has the original paint on it and it looks a lot better than my 1650. I have a few projects of my own to finish this week so maybe it will be back together this weekend.
 
Sorry to hear about that, Kraig- I didn't know your brother, but obviously he had excellent taste in instruments;

17359.jpg
 
Hi Don! Great to hear about rescuing the 109 from the crusher!

Wes- Hang in there- it'll all fall together soon!

Beau- the answer is in the GREY wire that ends up at Terminal A. Put the +(red) lead of a VOLTMETER on the center terminal of the regulator, and the - (black) lead against the block. With the engine off, you should see NO voltage. With the engine running, you should see somewhere in the vicinity of 13-14 volts. If you see LESS, then either the stator or regulator module are faulty. If you see MORE than 14.5ish volts, then the regulator's not regulating, and the battery will boil away pretty quick. If you see the proper voltage, then check out the grey wire all the way back to the switch.

Based on the diagram, if your hour-meter is working, but the battery's not charging, it's either a faulty switch, or the CHARGE METER's shunt isn't conducting electricity anymore. If the hour-meter's not running, then it's probably both the switch AND the stator/regulator.

Here's the 'other' picture...
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Hello everyone, I've got a quick question that I hope some people can help me with. I've got a original that I'm fixing for a friend and his engine seems to be junk. Its already been rebuilt once (.010 under on the crank and .010 over on the piston), and the only new connecting rod that I can buy is a standard and the pistons I can only get up to .010 over. So obviously with my resources his engine is junk. Would the best thing to do be to just get another engine for him or to get one and rebuild it? Does anyone know if .010 under rods can still be bought new for the 7hp. kohlers? I think that finding another engine won't be a problem I'm just trying to figure out if some parts are still available if I get another engine and it needs to be rebuilt. Any help/input is appreciated. Thanks!

Mark
 
Jon-
But can you unfold it into a flat pattern and send it to the laser cutter :) Dan H. laughed at me when I whipped out my 1:1 scale patterns of my weight bracket (Bryan's too) and traced it out.

This is the the one I was originally going to have for my 72 but never got done.
17363.jpg


And we can't forget about the largest stack of virtual weights
happy.gif

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Hey All,
I’m new to the board, but I’m not new to Cub’s! I own three an original, a 100, and a 102. I got my 100 when I was six, the original I bought when I was 12 and the 102 I got when I was 13. They are all in running condition. I have these attachments for them: 42 inch three blade deck, wheel weights, 38 inch deck for the original, and a Mott Hammer Knife Mower.

My question is regarding the Mott Hammer Knife Mower. Does anyone else here have one? Second does any body know where I can get parts for it? It mounts off of the front of the tractor. I’ve never used it but I’d like to it look’s like quite a beast.

Anyway my Cub’s have been wonderful tractors for me over the years. Now I’m a senior in high school so I’ve owned them for a while!
happy.gif


Thanks,
Peter
 
Well I got the PTO off tonight. It came off rather easy. I don't know if it was a different day or because I had it sprayed with WD-40.
Thanks for all your help!
buttrock.gif

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Jonathan,
What kind of software are you useing?
I use Solidworks. But I also use Solid Edge,(but I have to be forced to use it).
 
KRAIG,
JERRY,

THANKS! For all the help, Jerry you did give me the right address for Kraig, I must have done something wrong while trying to reach him!
Don't worry about the pics, as soon as you get them taken, is good enough but I look forward to there arrivel. For the time being I will be reading the information, you have gotten to me. THANKS! RAND

KRAIG,

THANKS: IF I had done my work properly, you would have gotten my mail!! Thanks for spending your valuable time, teaching me to send an email!!
Thank you also for sending the information to me, I have already begun checking a few things, that I was wondering about! Rand
 
Wyatt, I think I have a couple of the gray weights in that pile on my 122!
Speaking of the chain yank method of PTO removal, I used it to get the ramps out of the storage slot on my trailer! I used a short chain, a 6x6x36" piece of lumber I had with me and wrapped the chain around the 6x6 and gave it a yank! Much to my surprise the ramps came out after a few jerks. The ramp storage area was jammed with some pieces of gravel and I could not get them out!
Glad I thought of trying this method!
happy.gif
Saved my day and got my wife's broken down T-bird off the road! Thanks!
 
Kent-
I'm on Pro/Engineer. Here's something from 4 years ago . . . .
17370.jpg

Worm tracks on a die cast part gets to be a fun challenge, especially weaving from opposite machined faces and around spool valves.
 
Bryan: Thanks for the info on the rear axle leak. I will give it a try and let you know how it works.
 
Hee hee... Cute Mod, Digger- next time I drop the pan off my auto tranny, I'll be sure to stow it away somewhere so you don't take the Dremel to it! :-} I can just imagine what'd happen to the shift-pattern...
 
Hey Wyatt...

Is the Email address in your profile correct? I just tried to send you a message, and it came back... drop me a note, man!
 
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