Archive through March 29, 2012

[jrlewis]

I am in need of pictures of a narrow frame with the hydrolic pump mounted on it. I have a pump but somehing is not right with the way things are going for me. The more pictures the better so I might find out what I am missing or wrong.
Thank you men you have been a great help to me.

 

[wshytle]

BTW, I'd really like any feedback about this type of problem with the trunion. My first thought is the spring bracket had a crack that I didn't see last year. I didn't weld close to the break closest to the pump. I was driving the tractor hard but not abusing anything. I kept the rpm's up as well. The fluid level is fine. The small spring was broken (as I mentioned previusly) almost on the very end and that end looked "hammered" a tad.

Also, this 129 has hydraulic lift if that matters.

Any input will be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Joe L.
It's hydraulic, we pump oil, not water!

We also have a manuals section that not only has the Operators manual for the NF hydraulic pump, but it also have the installation manual!
http://www.ccmanuals.info/optional.html

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
In this picture I noticed the weld glob on the right side and the paint chip on the left side.

That seems to tell me that the slot was banging on the damper plate.
And that might have been enough to snap an already fatigued trunnion slot.

 

[bbranstetter]

Pretty good day today, got the deck pulled off and parked in the corner. Then managed to get the motor pulled out and ready to pull the clutch assembly. Maybe today or tomorrow I can get the bearing replaced and get my tractor ready to plow!!!

 

[lhinds]

Did someone say pin tool? I miss Ky. Ken

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Charlie-

First of all for the term trunion slot. I couldn't remember that name last night for some reason. The repair I did actually broke at the weakest point. I used a piece of 1/4" key stock notched on both ends. My weld held but when the slot broke there must have been a pretty good force. I don't understand the hammered part of the small spring either but like I mentioned, I was pushing the ole girl.

I'll see how the 1650 does today.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle
I have found the center springs broken more than the big outside spring.Spinning and having the tires lock and get good traction will affect the charge pump pressure and could cause jerky movements of the trunnion arm and broken springs. I have thought to add hard grease to the spring ,Most times my center springs looked rusty.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

I was running her hard but the ground conditions seemed perfect and I didn't spin much at all. I'm wondering now if speed had something to do with the failure. I averaged about the same speed as second in a gd. I may try some grease. I'd like to hear more about the use of those washers.

I do have an old road bed going through my garden and the ground is hard. I've added amendments over the years but it's still hard and throws the plow off track a little. The tractor seemed to work harder over that area but it still flipped the sod. I was about to adjust the land adjustments in a tad to see if it would help but it failed right before I got back to the wrenches.

I've now got to take the tiller set-up off of the 1650 in order to finish up. Afterwards I have to put it right back on. I'll probably get the big tractor out and just harrow after I finish plowing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro,

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

I used the washers to take up the slack . works for me.

 

[bcarl]

Don,

Dimes (US not Canadian) work as well. I have 40 cents worth in my 147 to take up the space of the worn slot.

 

[fcurrier]

Wayne: Are you familiar with these?

IH Hydro Trunion Repair Slot
Repair your worn trunion slot without removing the arm from the tractor.

Use this piece to mark your old one, cut it off and weld this one in it's place.
Made by Aaron, blatently stolen from CCSpecialties site.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

I am aware of the available slots for sale. If I can make it, regardless of what it is, I'll make it. I'd save a lot of time buying the slot but I have so much scrap iron/steel around I need to use it up. I got that from my father. He made everything he possibly could. I even have some hand tools he made to work in the flower beds. I plan to find a piece of steel a tad thicker than what's there hoping that will help things last.

The 1650 is sort of stuck out in the garden where the rear wheels high-centered cutting the last row. After what I've done this morning switching the tiller for the plow along with ag wheels and weights I just sat there and giggled a bit. I'm getting the big tractor out to harrow and be done.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - you came thru AGAIN!!!!!

Don T, Bruce and Wayne - I would think adding washers or dimes (not Canadian) would reduce the spring action and likely cause jerking. If the springs are slightly weak then 1 or 2 washers may not cause much, but by the time you get to 4 dimes I have to think it's jerking or jumping quickly as you change speeds. I thought the whole idea of the springs was to dampen or soften the forward and reverse action so you weren't thrown off the tractor. New buttons and springs are about $10 if I recall so I'd certainly recommend them if you're going to the trouble to weld up the trunion slot.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their buttons and springs are worth more than a few dimes)

 

[dpbauer]

I just purchased and installed a new set of trunnion springs and buttons at $14 in my narrow frame 125. I also installed a few shims to remove the side to side movement in the Control Drive Plate and the Control Cam Plate. ALL Cheep quik fixes there.

Now the hydro is reattached to the frame. Old Drive Pin is out, new pin and Drive Hub installed. Time to move to NEXT task!

I tightened the axle mount using the FAQ 3/4" bolt tip, installed and greased the new pivot pin thru new zerk fitting. Works a charm! Now its time to reinstall the used steering knuckle spindles.

Question: Should the steering knuckle have much play in the axle holes? I'm concerned mine have too much play (the very reason I had the steering apart) and wonder if there is an insert or quik fix. I checked FAq's to no avail... Anyone got a tip or 3?

I'm installing new wheel bearings, I've straightened my bent tie rod, and installing new tie rod ends. I'm hoping ALL my changes to steering will improve the much slop I had before this work begun. danWI

 

[mfrade]

Harry, Don T., Bruce, Wayne... get a gear drive and be done with it! Slushbox's.. sheeesh...

 

[bcarl]

Harry,

Your right in that the correct fix is to weld up the slots. I only used the dimes as a "quick fix" The thickness of the washers or dimes depends on the amount of wear in the trunion.

It was a bit jerky - but not enough to slam you back in the seat. Was still better than coming to a crawl going up a hill. Oh and I did put in new springs and buttons first. The wear was just too much.

My 147 was previously owned by my uncle. And I recall he was a madman when it came to mowing. He slammed that lever back and forth with the trottle wide open when he mowed. Mowing cut into his fishing time.

 

[bjamison]

Going to try to pull the engine in my 1650 and get a cradle mod done this weekend - wish me luck! I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions along the way.

I may try to get my deck back together too.

THE GRASS IS REALLY GROWING!!!!!!

and I want to see if this old tractor can handle it...

 

[hydroharry]

Dan B - glad to hear you are coming along good with your repairs, but sorry to say your steering knuckles should not really have play when inserted into the holes in the axle. They usually don't and usually the hole in the axle doesn't either. I'm wondering if your play is really in the cap on top of the knuckle. It's common for the hole for the roll pin in the cap to go oval giving you play when you are steering. This can be remedied by oversizing the hole in the cap and the knuckle. Also, it's common for a wheel bearing to fail and cut into the knuckle where it rides (which gives your front wheel a real Arkansas lean) and sloppy steering, but it sounds like you're ready to fix that. If your knuckles are actually worn I believe new and used replacements are available from sponsors. Additionally, you mentioned play in your steering. Replacing the ball joints on the tie rod and drag link ends is probably a good idea, but the steering box itself is common for play as well. If you haven't checked the box you can do that pretty readily by holding the big flat lever on the lower left outside of the box and then rotate the steering wheel. If you have play in the wheel then your box needs some work. If you're fortunate your box will really only need the "cam follower" screw, and if you're really really lucky you'll be able to rotate the screw 90degrees and remove the play. I highly recommend David Kirk's "SuperSteer Upgrade" (this is not the extensive Super Steer Upgrade in Charlie's FAQ but a small part of it). David Kirk's supersteer is mostly a bearing that gets added on the outside of the box and will greatly reduce the amount of effort required to turn the wheel. Good luck with your efforts.

Mike F - been there done that, replaced the clutch assembly, thro-out bearings, teaser springs, main spring, numerous times, won the T-shirt award, finally got smart and now only go with Hydros (Forever)(except for the ocassional pre-123 era tractor).

Bill J - here's wishing you the greatest luck with your cradle upgrade. I hope you're planning to use the oil pan to make sure the ISO-bars and cross support are aligned perfect. Also, before you put the engine back in make sure you have a good hydro cooling fan on the drive shaft. If you don't it's time to put it on before re-installing the engine. As for the grass growing, tell your wife you're gonna borrow the neighbors unit (the one you bought and hid in the neighbors 24x24 shed).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their steering can get real sloppy, up to nearly 3/4 turn of the wheel, if which case you certainly need to slow down your top speed)