Archive through March 29, 2012

[jbaker]

I opened up the k321 from the basket case 149 I picked, And found the balance gears moved almost a full 1/4 inch side to side. So out they came and fairly easy. all else looked good inside the lower end. will open the top next week.

Ryan you are making me

please email me instructions on "how to find a 169"

Marty that is great to here, this forum rules

 

[dtanner]

Joseph B Dudding

I don`t know if this will help you , but I took the fuel bowl out of my 125 tank , removed the male end from the tank and used a shut off valve from a 149 so I could use an in-line filter. I don`t think the fuel bowls with the screen get all the dirt that messes up my Carbs. so I have done this to see if the carb will last longer before I have to take it apart to clean it.I bet IH used the same threads in all there gas tanks . But I could be wrong

But I would put some money on it.

 

[jdudding]

Thanks Don T. for the info so the male end thats in the tank is threaded so I can remove it if it will come out.I have a spare tank I might just try it and save this tank.Joey.

 

[bjamison]

Here is a pic of the front end of my engine-less 1650

A pic of one of the slightly elongated holes in my engine cradle

Smashed snubber. I'll be ordering a couple of these. Should I get Cub Cadet or NAPA or something else?

Harry - took your advice and used an engine hoist to get the engine out, rather than my back. I decided to use the hoist I've been paying for now for over 16 years. The other side of the hoist I've been paying for now for over 14 yrs...

Really - I took one side and the boys took the other. We took the engine out with the cradle brackets on the engine. That was a difficult task as we had to lean the engine forward to get it to clear the tabs on the front/side of the frame. I think that when we put the engine back in, we will have to put the cradle in first, then then engine. Is this correct? How do you folks re-install an engine/cradle assembly into a QL?

I'll definately be taking my time with this engine reinstall.

BTW, the engine pulled away from the drive shaft with no problems.

 

[hydroharry]

Calvin L - sorry, but after Paul posted his note I re-checked my CPE-2 parts book and fournd the 4 pages that a 441U1111 Deck. Still no 44U.

Paul - thanks for pointing out the 441U1111. I guess I mixed the pages up and upon re-looking I found the page that states the 44's were built with an ID tag 441U1111.

Charlie - still not quite 44U tho.

Bill J - I really like your engine hoist. I'm wondering how it is you were able to slope your concrete walk just enough to keep the hoist level. That's some real difficult design effort. Did you mark the support beam with "far side of walk" and "near side of walk". Couple other things. I'd suggest removing your mule drive subframe. It's only in the way. Also, your pic of the hole in the ISO-bar is not taken directly over the hole so it looks somewhat distorted. I really can't tell if the hole is ok, or really ovaled to much. You might want to take a couple more pics of all the holes. Try to take them dead center above the hole and with the hole parallel to the camera so it isn't distorted. With regard to your snubbers, the one in the pic is to far gone for me. I'd definitely get the OEM replacements - I'm pretty certain Charlie has them and they aren't expensive (I don't think NAPA has something like it). If you end up having to get replacement ISO-bars you might want to wait and see how the snubbers are on the replacement bars, assuming you find a couple used bars. The snubbers are usually not removed and could be in good shape. Also, You are correct about putting the cradle in first and then the engine when you have both ready to re-install. I don't think you can do it the other way around. Once you have the ISO bars installed and attached to the frame with the ISO-mounts you can set the engine back in and get it aligned with the drive shaft in place, etc. When you bolt the engine to the ISO-bars you'll have to push up on the bar slightly to get it level with the base on the engine, and then get all the mounting holes in alignment. You start with the bolts in the rear holes, and make sure you use the correct bolts with a washer and lock washer. Don't tighten the rear mounting bolts until you have the front bolts installed since the aligning the front holes and getting the bolt threads started is the most difficult part (at least for me and my giant fingers). Also, it's wasn't clear to me what you did to separate the engine from the drive shaft. You seem to imply you just leaned the engine forward and the drive shaft came out. Did you remove the bolts from the rag joint?
Good luck with your entire project. You've got a ways to go, and don't hurry it until you have things right.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (lets keep'm moving and shakin)

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry --Speaking of moving and shaking, my Model 149 vibrates much too much for my comfort. Even with a new seat on it, I can't drive the tractor even twice around the yard before I have to shift in my seat; by the time I'm 1/2-way through mowing, I want to get off the tractor and get in the hot tub. I know I'm getting older, but really, should the machine vibrate that much more than my Magnum-powered 782? I find it intolerable. If I can't improve the situation, I'm ready to either sell the tractor or trade it for a gear drive to run my sprayer.

Interested in anyone's thoughts. . .

 

[wshytle]

Jeremiah-

Have you seen the crankshaft balancer Kirk Engines offers? I've heard a couple of good reviews and plan to add them to a couple of K321s I have.

 

[dtanner]

Jeremiah Chamberlin

I`am glad my 149 does not have the vibration problem like you mention. I know it does not have balance gears. It does seem to vibrate at some Rps but is smooth a other Rpm`s. I think my 149 is a great working tractor and I wonder if your problem could be timing?? I know just a few deg can make a big difference in how an engine will run. My 149 will vibrate more a lower rpm`s that middle to wot. I think I could set on mine and mow at least a 3 hrs and with the nerve damage I have I hate much vibration because parts of me will go to sleep. My right hand and left leg will go numb. My 149 is a great working tractor and I enjoy using it.

 

[digger]

So we both forgot the 1. So shoot us!

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne & Don --Thanks for responding. I guess the 149 HAS a problem, instead of BEING the problem. The matter certainly warrants investigation, because otherwise I like the tractor, even the hydrostatic control lever, which I seem to be able to work better than the "stick" on the 782 --once I repaired the trunnion and got used to working it against the brakes (which I also repaired).

I've never opened up the bottom end of a Kohler, (or the top end either, for that matter), so I'll be interested in what I'll find. Before I break out the wrenches, though, I thought I would upgrade the ignition's breaker points.

I have some mowing decks to get operational before I dive in, though.

Always something to do on a Cub Cadet --I'm loving it!