• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 25, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Lonny, Sounds like the float is out of adjustment assuming that the needle and seat were replaced. If you take the carb off of the engine remove the the bowl and hold the carb upside down and measure the distance from the base of the carb (where the bowl seats) to the topside or now the bottem side of the float. This should measure 11/64". If not using a flat screwdriver bend the tab that the needle sits on untill it does. I have good luck with just adjusting it untill the float sit perfectly paralell to the base of the carb. I hope you can understand my gibberish.
biggrin.gif
It's not really that hard though.
 
sorry Charlie in advance.
I find it interesting that IH serial numbers started with #501 The Cubs & Scouts were both made from 61-80 & both had #501 as the first production num. I believe the #501 Scout is MIA
12/1/60 FC501
11/1/61 FC29294
11/1/62 FC58143
11/1/63 FC83952
11/1/64 FC107761
11/1/65 FC157127
11/1/66 G222730

Scout 80 serial munbers
if not appropriate pls delete tks Don
 
Thanks for the advice on the carb.

Looks like I will be ordering another gasket set, I have the new needle and seat from the last repair set, guess I should have installed them while I had the carb off the motor.
 
How do you like this guys lol. Found a 169 ebay and guy claims this site says its made 1967
biggrin.gif
He's got the wrong serial number or something. Heres the quick find code 330102765837
 
I have a question for the Original experts. I had a friend email me a question on an Original a while back and since I'm 30 miles away from my Original now I can't run out to check on this for him, and everytime I'm near it I forget.

>I've got a question about the clutch on my Original I'm hoping you can
help me with. P/N IH-376262-R1, the pressure plate carrier, has a hole in it in which a spirol pin is driven. This connects the carrier to the drive shaft. The hole in my carrier seems to be larger than necessary. When the spirol pin is driven in, the carrier is free to move a bit on the shaft. It doesn't seem as though the hole has been worn oblong or out of form.It just appears like it was drilled larger than it needed to be. Is this normal, or should I replace the carrier?
 
Lonny,
Sometimes the bowls will leak when they have been taken off to many times. They kind of get pushed in. Place the bowl on a flat board with the lip of the bowl pointing up. Place a small piece of wood or a dowel on the bottom center of the bowl and tap it a few times with a hammer. This will force the lip of the bowl to seat harder into the bowl gasket.

Also,
Hows this for piston slop. It doesn't smoke and it has about 75% of its power. Good enough for now.
53878.jpg
 
Hey all,I need some help with a suction tube on a 147. It dripped since I drug it home, I thought it would be an easy fix. Well it looks like PO cranked in the wrong upper tube,or the threads in the new pump are a little coarser than the origial. Would a replacement(or later) pump have different threads? Any body have part numbers, to make a later pump plumb in to older diff? The reason I think the pump is new is- it has no paint on it just primer. Thanks for all the info and great site. Pete
 
Terry,
I have a couple of old carbs here that do not leak, but the throttle shaft are so worn out they need rebuilding.
I am thinking taking the bowl from one of them and trying it on this carb.
If that dont do it, than the new carb I have on order will be used to replace the leaky one.
 
Charlie,
Drive shaft pin update.
I whent and ordered a couple new driveshaft pins (0.25 X 1.50) for the 126 from the cub dealer.
Well I put one in and it did not stay in place more than 10 minutes run time.
So today I went to the not so local Case/IH dealer and picked up a couple of the sprial spring pins used in the driveshaft on a gear drive like on my 72.
I hope to have better luck with them staying in place than the ones called for in the parts book.
 
Lonnie-
Reread what Terry just wrote. It's good advice, I've had to do that many times on a carb rebuild to keep it from leaking because the bottom of the bowl gets pushed in over the years.

If it's leaking from the bowl, I bet that's your problem.....

Ron-
I don't think we know if that's #501 yet. A guy named Bill Ryker is in the process of checking with Navistar right now. My guess is that it's #590....
happy.gif
 
Back
Top