Archive through March 23, 2012

[digger]

John S.
How about we show what one of yours REALLY looked like. LOL
Dig that crazy muffler too.

 

[digger]

Oops, I forgot the business end.

 

[glippert]

Charlie - I don't know a lot about these tractors, but I was able to determine from your photos of the electric lifts that wide frames and narrow frames lift on opposite ends.

 

[glippert]

John S - nice looking tractors. And, it's good to know that they play a part in your efforts to help kids. Here's a toast to you!

 

[messary]

As requested by Ray Leo a few days ago, here is my $10 purchase. I'm picking it up in the morning.

 

[bcuster]

WOW ---- Biggest heist of the year !!! $10 ?!??

 

[dclinansmith]

Norm, Our local off topic dealer has a large box with a pretty complete assortment of those plastic connectors as well as the metal terminals that fit them. I believe he said it came from Kohler but I'm not positive about that. Don't shoot me for being a traitor because this same Gentleman was my CC dealer until IH got out of the CC business.

 

[thoffman]

Mike E,
Were you carrying a .45 or a 9mm when you made that deal?

 

[jrlewis]

Well it is for sure spring. I have a problem with my 582 IH tractor, the thing after I got the mowing deck under it yesterday and mowed with it tried to shut it off and the switch would not kill the engine? What has happened, the key switch was killing the motor before I put deck under it. I checked all the wires and did not pull nothing lose, 1st time for everthing just need a little information on where to start the switch I know is the first place but where from there? If switch is good where then? Oh I got the bird dropping of it.

 

[bjamison]

Charlie - the lift actuator is definately from a wheelhorse. I know that sometimes different OEMs use the same purchased part - thought this lift actuator might have been one of those items.

 

[afoes]

Joe,

I would first check to make sure the switch is able to find ground. Either a wire going to ground or the switch itself.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - That Original CC of JOHN S's looks like something Art A might have sold to him. The rear tires are a dead give-away. Looks like the blade needs a little work too!

DAVE K. - re: Your rockshaft lift arm. I almost think it would be easier to make a whole new lift arm than try to repair the old one. You have to turn the heat up on the welder pretty high to get good penetration down into the bottom of the worn holes, and small holes 5/16" dia are hard to get to the bottom of, especially on thinner material like that round sleeve. Welding on both sides of the sleeve would distort the sleeve too, make it egg-shaped, hard to get back on the rockshaft, and if you bored it out round again it would be loose.

I think you'd have the best success starting with a short piece of solid round bar, maybe just a bit larger OD than the sleeve IH used for greater wall thickness, form and weld a new arm to it welding on both sides, then boring the 3/4" through hole perpendicular to the arm, then boring the 5/16" hole for the roll pin thru the bored round bar. Welding the pin for the lift link could be done last.

Drilling thru weld metal is difficult, it's normally really hard even when using mild steel rod/wire. Plus welding distorts steel. That distortion has to be accounted for in the making of the part. Making a whole new arm then drilling the holes allows for the distortion to be taken out of the process. The new arm has to closely match the old arm or the mower will still droop on one side.

I'm sure IH used a weld fixture to locate the sleeve to the arm locating off the roll pin hole so every piece was almost identicle.

 

[jchamberlin]

Dave Kirk --I think you are to be commended for getting the old part out of the tractor to begin with. I disassembled the rock shaft on my 1250 and I wound up cutting the frame in half (it was donating parts to my other tractors). Other owners just take a saw to the shaft itself.

I still have the parts, and they didn't seem worn when I took them off, at least not like yours. You're welcome to them for the cost of the freight to ship them. Contact me at the e-mail in my profile.

 

[kharvey]

How about taper reaming the rockshaft and arms.
Then put a solid taper pin in. It sure worked good when I did it to the steering on my 147.

 

[rtempleton]

Had a 1250 follow me home the other day, runs just smokes a little. Has a few missing parts that shouldn't be to hard to find. Oh the price was free I just had to come get it. Will have pictures of it sometime this weekend. Oh and had 1641 followed me home from the same place just had trade a brinly sleeve hitch plow for it. Hopefully it won't take to much to get it going. Will post more about it in the proper forum later.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Loren, I think your post got overlooked, that or no one here knows how to remove/replace the valve seat... I know I don't. Hopefully someone will be along shortly with an answer for you.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I overlooked Loren's post. I see he is asking how to remove and replace the exhaust valve seat in a K321. I don't know either.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but need help sometimes)

 

[dtanner]

I could be way out to lunch

But I believe the valve guide is replaceable but the valve seat is ground into the engine block. My .02

 

[dtanner]

I know that the guides are press fit and can be pulled out.The tool is put into the valve guide and pulled out. There is a puller for the guide , here is one for a briggs http://www.lawnmowerpros.com/detail.asp?id=19232
and some more info http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-10-Machine-Shop-101/101-Projects-10-Machine-Shop-101.htm

 

[dtanner]

Oh and in the kohler manual under valve service tools http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Under 2.1