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glippert

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Greg Lippert
Jeremiah - I have a Vanguard on my 782 and replaced the front rag joint assembly with a u-joint. It works good for me. Of course I'll need to replace the driveshaft if/when I go back to the Kohler.

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cengelking

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Chris Engelking
Does anyone know what type of clutch is on a 59p shredder with an engine on it. Is it a standard one or IH part only? Any information would be helpful.
 

jchamberlin

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Greg: That's a sweet setup. But it raises a few questions for me:

1. How does the engine-side yoke attach to the crank?

2. Is the drive-shaft yolk welded to the shaft, or is it keyed? Does it use a set screw?

3. Are you still running a rag joint at the rear into the transmission? I've seen where some people have gone to a U-Joint at that point too.

4. The textbook removal of a rag joint axle depends on removing no less than three (3) spirol pins to slide all the couplings back, then shifting the front of the axle so the rear of the axle can clear the cup at the transmission. How do you accomplish axle removal with U-Joint set-up?

I know I've asked a lot of questions, but the drive shaft isn't a strong feature of the IH design, and its pretty important to get it right. Failure can be catastrophic in more ways than one.
 

jchamberlin

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Jeremiah Chamberlin
Matt: Thanks for the part reference, I will investigate further.

OK, I checked it out.

Does the cup simply press into the rear of the crank?
 

mgonitzke

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Matt Gonitzke
Greg-

I'm curious to see what the longevity of those U-joints is like...didn't Denny post about JD using that setup and frequent replacement of the U-joints?

Jeremiah-

I'm curious why you think the driveshaft design isn't good. If properly installed and maintained, it's not going to come apart. All of the driveshaft failures I've seen are as as a result of PO idiocy and neglect, not a design fault. If the spherical ball bushings are replaced when they wear out, and the bolts through the flex coupling not overtightened, the driveshaft will last quite awhile (unless it's in a diesel tractor) and the parts are decently cheap compared to U-joints.

Lewis-

What's wrong with Nylock nuts? I've used them on many driveshaft couplers and never had a problem.
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jchamberlin

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Jeremiah Chamberlin
Matt: I edited my previous post, see below.

I may be talking over my head on the regarding the design. The fellows who hop the tractors up (like Extreme Motorsports) claim that the drive shafts are at their design limits. A tube would actually be stronger than a solid shaft, or at least more rigid. Compare the driveshafts on the newer MTD horizontal drive tractors. They are much larger diameter tubes. I would have more confidence in them.

The rag joints may be serviceable, but as my experience can testify, they are prone to abuse, knowing and un-knowing. I'm replacing mine, not because I've determined they've failed, but because so many forum posters urge me to do so.

Finally, I may be too demanding, but I'm looking for a maintenance-free solution. I don't guess I'm going to get it, but it doesn't keep me from wanting it.
 

digger

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Say,
You guys wanna take your modification planning over to the Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! thread.
That's really where is belongs.
 

lpalma

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Lewis Palma
Matt,
I just changed a driveshaft and the Nylock nuts the po used came off pretty easy,Just my 2 cents.
 

wshytle

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Wayne Shytle
Chris E-

I recently did some clutch work on another brand shredder. Get an outside diameter of your existing pulley and your crank diameter and just match this info to a new centrifugal(sp) clutch and you're set. Make sure the keyway matches as well. If this website works it may help.

http://www.heeters.com/kartclutches.shtml

Sorry Charlie, I know this topic should be in the sandbox probably.
 

mgonitzke

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Jeremiah-

The cup goes under the flywheel bolt. I continued the driveshaft discussion in the 'better than new' section.
 

jhillegass

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Jerry Hillegass
Lewis P.

On your comment about the Nylon lock nuts....

Do you think they may not hold up over time? I know the nuts that came off my tractor were the "center dimple type" and they were "tight to the end" when being removed.

I just happened to check those nuts and the driveline Friday night during a pre mowing season tuneup. I didn't re-torque them, but all seemed to be tight. (after 4 years). I may check them again.

Anybody else have experience with the nylock nuts on a drive line?

Jerry
 

tpennell

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Timothy M. Pennell
Jerry H.
They use nylocks on aircraft. It is either a nylock, safety wired or cotterpinned. I would trust them to hold up to anything.
Tim P.
 

wshytle

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Wayne Shytle
If you're worried about nylon nuts simply go with Stover nuts. If you don't know about Stover nuts then just Google. These are used with the ISO mounts routinely. They are metal to metal lock nuts. They are a little expensive but probably worth the expense.

.02 worth
 

lpalma

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Lewis Palma
I am just commenting on what I have experienced.I don't want to say everyone who uses them is going to experience the same outcome as I seen with the amount of drive shafts that I have seen fixed by PO's.
Wouldn't IH have used them on the drive shaft couplings if they were satisfactory?
To keep it cool with Charlie...Cause he is cool....
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dwilkinson

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Doug Wilkinson
Nylocks work great but you should not reuse them after more than about one or two removals. They are cheap so throw them out.
 

jchamberlin

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Jeremiah Chamberlin
Wayne

I take issue with Stover's claim that their lock nuts are re-usable. I recently spent a good deal of time disassembling a Sears 6000 tractor specifically to salvage the 3/8"-16 Stover-style locknuts. What I found was that (1) they tore up the bolt from which I removed them, (2) they failed to "lock" to any subsequent bolt to which I fastened them.

On the other hand, the "center-dimple style" seem to at least "stick" after repeated removals/replacements.

Personally, I don't consider the Nylocs optimal. I think they're susceptible to heat, and I don't think they like being torqued but so much. But, hey, I can get them from Lowes in Grade 5 fine thread and Grade 8 coarse thread.
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lpalma

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Lewis Palma
This thread is driving me nuts!!
Time to get back on track.
does anyone know of a supplier for the spade connectors on cub cadet wiring harnesses?
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digger

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Lewis P.
I don't think they are special in any way. Head down to the auto parts store and buy the good ones.
 

thoffman

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Tom Hoffman
Hmmmm,
Nylon nuts!!
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.......I wear 100% virgin cotton!
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