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Archive through March 13, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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abaker

Member
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Mar 5, 2008
Messages
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Adam Baker
Here is my 129 I Just got about a week ago. I am still trying to figure out the Year model? I think it is either a 72 or 73. Can you guys help me the serial# is: 2050046u457052

Also I am trying to figure out the size of the mower deck the guy said it was a 42" but The serial# makes me think different. It is: 441U1111.


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Adam

With that serial number for the deck I would say its a 44 inch deck.
 
Kind of quiet in here this time of the morning.

Guess I might as well go home and get some sleep, work comes early for me on Fridays.
 
Lonny - You could have been out in the shop with me pulling an all nighter building up a front blade mount and lift. Man am I paying for it now !
75* yesterday and 47* overnight , good workin or fishin weather
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My Hy-Tan yesterday was $11.99 per gallon and $13.50 for a CC filter. I had to order a rear cover gasket from MTD when I got home ... shipping was more than the gasket.

Adam - My #3 Cub is a 129. I liked it for what time I used it. EPA shut me down for pollution , talk about blowing oil smoke !!
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Charlie / Bryan ---- THIS SUCKER KEEPS TIMING OUT ! Every page I've been to and thread.
 
I've got an ignition coil problem!

My 1250 has a Kohler K301 engine. Last week, my relatively new ignition coil went bad, with a short across the primary winding. I replaced the coil, and the new one lasted only an hour or so, this time with no contininuity across the primary. Before putting on the new coil, I had monitored the DC voltage, and it varied from about 13 volts to 14.3 volts depending on engine speed. I don't know if that's typical regulator behavior, but it didn't seem to me like anything that would stress a coil.

There must be something causing the coil burnout. At $30 a crack, I need to get to the bottom of it before trying again.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ron
 
RON S. - re Canton Plant. During the later stages of IH they also welded up the front frame for the 2+2's instead of just shipping the flame-cut plate to FARMALL and having them welded in-house. The from axle square or rect. tubes were ALL made @ IH E.Moline. I was a "Helper" on an 8 ft Cinncinati metal cutting shear @ the EM plant for about 6 weeks in Jan & Feb. '77. One night My Partner & I ran 80,000# os heavy sheet thru Our shear in 24 hrs. We set the job up abbout 4 PM Friday afternoon and ran till 11 PM or Midnight, took off home for third shift, round trip home for Me was around 50 miles at the time....and finished the job by 3 PM Saturday afternoon. Canton may have got that job away from EM after that because They were really hurting for work in the 80's.

I know some planter prod. was at EM also...My next-door neighbor was the Gen'l Foreman of the planter assembly area.

Canton had the ability to run LOTS of steel thru their plant....My Buddy told Me they had either 20 or 40 acres along the ILL. River for steel storage that came in on barges from the mills.

To keep OT....I still don't think Canton made much for LVL for Cub Cadets.
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Hey guys I found this while surfing for info on P&O plow works. The place was huge.
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Ron O
I had a similar problem last year on my 1450 coil went bad I went out and got a new one lasted about a week then I put one on it from a old 1450 and it still running daily. I think the new coils are not as good as the older ones
 
Ron O,
I was going through stock coils on my 1450 at least one a year until I put on a Bosch blue and it's been running great ever since. (watch it go out this summer, knock on wood)

Make sure all of your grounds are good on the coil mount and condensor mount and the ground strap on the starter to frame too. You may even run a ground straight from the battery to the starter mount (if you've not already got that).

Good luck,
Keith
 
Okay guys , lurnin tyme again.

I made a front blade mount for my OT Cub and I used the Frankinstien (how ya spell that?) bolts as well as the front inner frame welded nuts.
So here's the problem: How do you mark your steel for the in-the frame nuts ...
With the steel in place you can't see them, you can't verywell look behind them to eyeball and center punch them ...

SO !

You chase out the paint in the threads then get the same dia/pitch and cut a short piece of all thread or use an old bolt.
Drill a hole through the center and use a piece of tool steel rod as a sliding punch.

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Screw the little feller into the hole flush with the outer surface then reach inside the frame with a little ball pein and <font size="+2"><font color="0000ff"><font face="verdana,arial,helvetica">BAM !</font></font></font> Smack that sucker
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On this frying coils thing.
I had a 1650 once that did that twice, I found a loose condenser was my problem, Just a thought.
 
On the coils, fellow i bought my 1450 went through 3 coils from the dealer, 3rd went out on me, went to napa got one no problems since.
 
Afternoon Guys,maybe evening for some of you!
I was wondering if someone could post a picture or point me in the direction of a picture showing the way the PTO engage lever is attached to the tractor.I have two 123'S and nither have a pto engage lever.Thanks Jason
 
Adam, yer deck is a 44 inch, stamped steel, very common for that era, you will often come across the cast steel decks(3balde) as well as ones like yours.
 

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