lpalma
Well-known member
Now who would cut a hole in the tunnel ?
Now back to our regular program
Now back to our regular program
Archive through March 12, 2014
- Thread starter elincoln
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Hydro, step #12 of the manual excerpts I posted kind of hints at it where it mentions the dowel pin. Keep in mind that on a narrow frame the drive shaft slides right out of the coupler on the flywheel, no need to actually "remove" the drive shaft when splitting it.
new task for the day - got a new sediment bowl - where can I find new fuel fittings (1/4") that thread into carb and sediment bowl that use rubber fuel line? also - gotta find a c-clip for the throttle shaft lever - mine went flying.
Repair and Modifications to My QA 42-A Snowthrower
Several weeks ago when doing a small snow removal job with my trusty 1250 Cub equipped with a QA 42-A snowthrower, I heard a loud pop – never a good sound. Shutting down and examining the tractor and snowthrower didn’t reveal anything abnormal. Thereafter, while attempting to move a small mound of snow, I noticed the left side of the snowthrower moving toward the tractor! Inspection showed that the left side hitch plate had become disengaged from the tractor hitch bolt. Normally this could not happen unless the front quick-disconnect pin had come loose from the tractor. Fortunately the snow removal job was essentially done so the machine was put into the garage and the snowthrower removed.
After removal, the problem was obvious – the left-side quick disconnect hitch pin had broken off flush with the hitch plate, thereby allowing no lateral support on the left side. This is what I saw:
The pin, which is actually a round head clevis pin, is welded in place on the outside of the hitch plate. All that was left was a .5” diameter hole where the pin used to reside:
It appears that the reasoning behind using two individual pins in this location is that it makes for easier adjustability of the hitch plates to fit both narrow and wide frame tractors. As I intend to use this snowthrower only on my wide frame 1250, modifying these hitch plates to use a through shaft in this location (similar to the mower deck lift linkage) seemed a good idea in that more strength would be obtained with a through shaft instead of individual, cantilevered pins.
Both hitch plates were then removed from the assembly. Using a milling machine, the heads of the original clevis pins were milled away with an end mill. The remaining pin on the right side plate was hammered out. Here is the left side hitch plate showing the results…a .5” diameter hole remains:
Then a length of 304 stainless steel shaft of .5” O.D. was obtained and cut to 15” length, with .125” diameter cotter pin holes drilled .375” from each end:
While apart, I’ll share the most unobtrusive and easiest modification to the belt adjuster screw to keep it from backing off. Using 2 each wave washers of .535 ID X .875 OD stacked together along with a backup flat washer, these are placed over the adjuster screw on the inside of the hitch plate.
Apply some grease, then tighten the retaining nut until some rotational resistance is felt. Insert the cotter pin and you’ll never experience a loosening drive belt again. The wave washers are available through McMaster-Carr.
With all parts cleaned of dirt and old grease, assembly could then proceed. This is what it now looks like:
The through shaft should provide much improved strength and rigidity to the mounting system, thereby eliminating a source of failure that I experienced. I feel it’s a good modification to the QA 42-A and wanted to share it. Now let’s all hope we don’t have to use our snowthrowers again until next Fall.
Dave
Several weeks ago when doing a small snow removal job with my trusty 1250 Cub equipped with a QA 42-A snowthrower, I heard a loud pop – never a good sound. Shutting down and examining the tractor and snowthrower didn’t reveal anything abnormal. Thereafter, while attempting to move a small mound of snow, I noticed the left side of the snowthrower moving toward the tractor! Inspection showed that the left side hitch plate had become disengaged from the tractor hitch bolt. Normally this could not happen unless the front quick-disconnect pin had come loose from the tractor. Fortunately the snow removal job was essentially done so the machine was put into the garage and the snowthrower removed.
After removal, the problem was obvious – the left-side quick disconnect hitch pin had broken off flush with the hitch plate, thereby allowing no lateral support on the left side. This is what I saw:
The pin, which is actually a round head clevis pin, is welded in place on the outside of the hitch plate. All that was left was a .5” diameter hole where the pin used to reside:
It appears that the reasoning behind using two individual pins in this location is that it makes for easier adjustability of the hitch plates to fit both narrow and wide frame tractors. As I intend to use this snowthrower only on my wide frame 1250, modifying these hitch plates to use a through shaft in this location (similar to the mower deck lift linkage) seemed a good idea in that more strength would be obtained with a through shaft instead of individual, cantilevered pins.
Both hitch plates were then removed from the assembly. Using a milling machine, the heads of the original clevis pins were milled away with an end mill. The remaining pin on the right side plate was hammered out. Here is the left side hitch plate showing the results…a .5” diameter hole remains:
Then a length of 304 stainless steel shaft of .5” O.D. was obtained and cut to 15” length, with .125” diameter cotter pin holes drilled .375” from each end:
While apart, I’ll share the most unobtrusive and easiest modification to the belt adjuster screw to keep it from backing off. Using 2 each wave washers of .535 ID X .875 OD stacked together along with a backup flat washer, these are placed over the adjuster screw on the inside of the hitch plate.
Apply some grease, then tighten the retaining nut until some rotational resistance is felt. Insert the cotter pin and you’ll never experience a loosening drive belt again. The wave washers are available through McMaster-Carr.
With all parts cleaned of dirt and old grease, assembly could then proceed. This is what it now looks like:
The through shaft should provide much improved strength and rigidity to the mounting system, thereby eliminating a source of failure that I experienced. I feel it’s a good modification to the QA 42-A and wanted to share it. Now let’s all hope we don’t have to use our snowthrowers again until next Fall.
Dave
Hi Wyatt - thank you! With these older machines, time has taken it's toll on the more heavily-stressed components. Added to that was I was probably doing a little more high speed snowbank ramming than I should have been. I don't think the cross shaft will ever fail as easily as those original pins.
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Dave K - great info and just in time for Spring (I hope) .....
hydroharry
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Dave K - very good info and great job you did. I also think even with your modification the unit would still work on a narrow frame tractor. You'd have to have a couple more holes on the new shaft for cotter pins, and it might look a little odd having an extra inch of shaft sticking out, but in my mind it would work. Am I missing something?
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos. Thanks for pointing that step 12 out. I was thinking the shaft was pinned, but you jogged my memory. It is slotted for the pin in the front. I do have to mention those instructions say remove the clutch cover so you can guide the driveshaft. Probably only works for guys with really long arms if they are using a big ole crescent wrench on the draw bar to move the rearend back and they can still reach up to the drive shaft and guide it - and if it's a hydro they have to guide it so it doesn't mess up the fan. I gotta say I really was never one for using the hydro release lever anyway, and risking the buttons sticking down. If my flapper breaks I'm leaving it until I have to split the tractor for some other reason (and there ain't many cept for the infamous $3 hydro pump gasket).
Hey Bill QQ - I think you've got wishful thinking. I remember getting 2-3 feet of snow in March many times when I lived in the DC area - and you ain't that far from there. Happened most of the time when people said it wouldn't, and I suspect you gone and done it now.
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos. Thanks for pointing that step 12 out. I was thinking the shaft was pinned, but you jogged my memory. It is slotted for the pin in the front. I do have to mention those instructions say remove the clutch cover so you can guide the driveshaft. Probably only works for guys with really long arms if they are using a big ole crescent wrench on the draw bar to move the rearend back and they can still reach up to the drive shaft and guide it - and if it's a hydro they have to guide it so it doesn't mess up the fan. I gotta say I really was never one for using the hydro release lever anyway, and risking the buttons sticking down. If my flapper breaks I'm leaving it until I have to split the tractor for some other reason (and there ain't many cept for the infamous $3 hydro pump gasket).
Hey Bill QQ - I think you've got wishful thinking. I remember getting 2-3 feet of snow in March many times when I lived in the DC area - and you ain't that far from there. Happened most of the time when people said it wouldn't, and I suspect you gone and done it now.
mfrade
Well-known member
Kraig, and all who've asked.. just got an e-mail from Jeremiah Chamberlain, he says,
"I've been extremely busy. First learning a new job (on 2nd shift), and then taking on an impossible second job teaching an eight week course at the local community college on top of that. I've been putting in 18 hours a day for ten weeks now. I'm still working a nine hour shift most week-ends, which is about 1 1/2 hours away, one-way. So, at least 114 hrs a week away from home, about 80 of them on the clock. I've been exhausted for some time now."
So he's okay, just working his butt off!
"I've been extremely busy. First learning a new job (on 2nd shift), and then taking on an impossible second job teaching an eight week course at the local community college on top of that. I've been putting in 18 hours a day for ten weeks now. I'm still working a nine hour shift most week-ends, which is about 1 1/2 hours away, one-way. So, at least 114 hrs a week away from home, about 80 of them on the clock. I've been exhausted for some time now."
So he's okay, just working his butt off!
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Harry B - we just got hammered by a March snow a week or so ago, but it's forecasted to be in the 60's today - yippie!!!!!
Fall mowing and spring snows are what learned me the 2 tractor plan years ago.
Summer = 2 tractors mowing
Fall = 1 tractor mowing and 1 tractor with front blade for snow duty
Winter = 1 tractor w/ blade, 1 tractor w/blower
Spring = 1 tractor mowing and 1 tractor with front blade for snow duty
The 2 tractor plan, especially with like models, makes for a back-up and parts tractor if necessary!
Fall mowing and spring snows are what learned me the 2 tractor plan years ago.
Summer = 2 tractors mowing
Fall = 1 tractor mowing and 1 tractor with front blade for snow duty
Winter = 1 tractor w/ blade, 1 tractor w/blower
Spring = 1 tractor mowing and 1 tractor with front blade for snow duty
The 2 tractor plan, especially with like models, makes for a back-up and parts tractor if necessary!
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