Archive through March 08, 2017

[eford]

Marlin, I only had to remove one wheel on Ian's 102 and boy howdy!! Tough to say the least. Dad wants to help me work on the cozy cab, so I'm waiting for weather condusive to him wanting to be outside and work. I think after a year of retirement he's caught up on the rest he's missed in the last half century (or there abouts) of working. Although I'm still on my own for the heavy lifting, paint removal, painting...

Nick, browse over in the ccc and MTD machines area, I'm sure someone has done what your 682 has for an engine swap. Many guys have done repowers over in there.

Looks like I'll get another shot at cleaning up the yard, all the wind today my trash can blew halfway down the block! I may use the 1200 to pull the cart though...

 

[mfrade]

No Harry, haven't made time for the 169 in a couple months? Maybe?? Still cranks hard after that first "fire up".. The vibes are less than pleasant at w.o.t., not impressed to say the least.

 

[jchamberlin]

To catch everyone up on developments since my first post concerning my "PTO Disengagement Switch" issue on Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 12:33 am (see top of the page on Archive through February 26, 2017 (check out the bottom of the page while you're there) <u>HERE</u> where the following picture is posted:

My post generated some interesting comments and several tales about what can happen when one jumps out its close cousin, the Neutral Safety Switch, not that anyone recommended that course of action, naturally.

I took Charlie's advice and went to my local CaseIH dealer and picked up P/N 1216293 after calling to see if they had a Neutral Safety Switch for a Cub 154 Lo-Boy in stock, which they did.

P/N on Bag (note the label "Rust Preventative Bag . . . Do Not Open Until Use"):

Part in the Bag:

The rubber is clearly installed (which should ease Dave Schwandt's mind):

And the back seems to be of a new and improved design featuring a resin seal:

However, the price has gone up since Charlie got his last one, as the bill shows:

(For folks my age and older):

Even Charlie can see that it cost me more than $11.00 USD.

On the way back from the dealer with the switch, I thought that Marlin Homrighausen's friend may be on to something, it would be worth collecting old Cub Cadets, just to have access to an inventory of spare parts like this one.

As far as jumping it out, I thought Marty Gwinn's idea of using a fuse was quite ingenious, and if I was the only user of the tractor, I would probably have opted for it, but I went ahead and got the switch because I had such a time getting it out, I didn't want to have to do it all over again at some later date. (I removed gas tank and solenoid switch to get at the blasted locking nut, if you're curious. For some reason the threads were damaged on one side, probably because of a mis-routed throttle cable.)

Anyway, if you've read this far, you now know more than you ever wanted to about "PTO Safety Switches" on a wide frame Cub Cadet.

Edit: New Switch is a little shorter than the old one, and the spring seems quite stiff to me.

 

[eford]

Jeremiah, thank you for the report!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Earl F. I'm working on trying to remove a rim front a 123 front spindle. I go at it off and on. both spindle and rim are rusted. I just need a nice shop so it doesn't sit outside.

Jeremiah C. Thank you for the neutral switch update. If I lived in the country, I'd have around twenty or more parts Cub Cadets. Last time I had five sitting here and got nervous because the town doesn't like to see something like that.

Harry B. If Mike F. should ever decide that he doesn't want to keep his 169 then Fancy said that he'll get it via the CC Transportation Network and add it to is collection of Kitty Cubs.

I want to go to Oskaloosa this weekend and now their calling for cold and snow.

 

[wcompton]

Goodness, cheers for effort.

Here's the webpage for the switch, for those of us who can buy direct-
http://www.indakswitches.com/push-button-switches/large-case-push-button-switches/

(and for goodness sake if you've got corroded electrical components, take a look at replacing the contacts on your harness - http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=2977647 )

 

[digger]

Jeremiah C.
Granted the spring is stiffer, BUT!
Your gettin older and weaker by the minute!

 

[rrschmitt]

Jeremiah,

Make sure you got the switch position adjusted accordingly so that it doesn't bottom out the switch and overload your spring when putting the PTO lever in the disengaged position. After going to all this trouble to replace the switch, you sure wouldn't want to next break the spring.

 

[jchamberlin]

Charlie: you're right about getting older and weaker.

Ron, you are absolutely correct about the switch adjustment. I found that only about 1/4" of travel is required to provide continuity to the ignition switch.

Wyatt, interesting. There are some things I would like to buy direct, switches are not one of them.

All: Well I got the switch installed today, as the photos will reveal.

Before installation: The tunnel cover, ignition switch, solenoid, and gas tank had all been removed or otherwise pushed out of the way to gain access to the switch:

I installed the switch at a point I thought appropriate and began testing with a voltmeter to see how much engagement was required. I was surprised to learn that basically, just moving it off full extension was enough to provide continuity. The next two pictures show the switch with the PTO engaged (switch in "Normally Open" condition, and the PTO disengaged with the switch "Held Closed."

Switch Open:

Switch Closed:

After installing the ignition switch, I found that I needed to turn the terminals upright in order to attach the harness connector.

Also, after dropping the 1/4"-20 nut that holds the bottom of the solenoid to the frame, what should I find nestled in the leaves on the top of the deck, but the missing piece of the old switch! (This situation makes a good argument for blowing the deck off after each use.):

So . . . the whole of the "original" switch looks like this:

Note that there are two springs involved: the switch doesn't bottom out until the disk is up on the cup. The sequence is: first the big spring must be overcome to bring the cup into contact with the "nubs" at the terminals, then the small spring allows for some over-travel. Interesting.

Marlin, after I put this one back together, it will become my "spare" neutral safety switch.

Now I've got to see if my repairs have resulted in a tractor that starts up first time, every time.

 

[mgonitzke]

I think Jeremiah is the first person I have ever heard of buy a new safety switch in the 13 or 14 years I have been involved in this hobby...

 

[bjames]

He takes/posts good pics though.

 

[sblunier]

Agreed, first time for everything.....

Not sure why the comment about not buying a switch direct....."parts is parts".........

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeremiah C. Weather permitting I'll check some of Mike's parts Cubs for some "spare" switches for you and others. And yes... you do take great pictures.

 

[digger]

Matt G.
I just did a search on PN/925-3038 that shows 108 were shipped out of here for 2016.
And 22 so far this year.

 

[mfrade]

Marlin, P.O. jumped out the safety switches before I got the 169..

If you're concerned that is! roflmao

 

[jmusits]

Marlin - I'll definitely take a few photos and post them over the weekend. Looks like I have some snow coming my way early next week.

 

[eford]

Judging by the crazy forecasting going on, I'm glad I'm leaving the blade on the 100.
And my trusty 1200 was being a bear. She's going to need coaxing to start since early February. Maybe I need to wave some V-61's in front of her. Depending on work on Saturday will see where I get, grass is starting to green already!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Mike F. Fancy isn't worried about the by-passed safety switch. It makes it easier for him to "start" the Cubs when he wants rides.

 

[jchamberlin]

Making "progress" on the 149, it now CRANKS first time, every time, but it only actually started once, ran for less than a minute and stopped. No spark.

Points opening & closing OK, cleaned them anyway.

Coil Ohmmed out OK, at least I got a reading. May check further today.

Replaced the condenser with a new Kohler part, although I don't think the old Chevy condenser was bad (they measured the same on my fancy electronic voltmeter). [By-the-way, the Chevy condenser is $8.00, the Kohler condenser is $18.00 {$20.00 with tax}, I don't know what Wyatt can get them for direct.]

By the time I had run to NAPA and got everything back together it was dinner time, and I was wondering how much it would cost to buy Miller High Life direct.

I put the battery on the trickle charger and came inside.

So today, I'll have to start troubleshooting. First I'll check to see that I have 12 volts at the coil.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeremiah, last December I had the spark plug wire go bad on my #2 125. Thankfully it didn't take me too long to figure it out. I had spare parts and after I did a few checks with my volt/ohm meter I started swapping them out starting with a known good spark plug, then a known good plug wire. But by the time I had spark back the engine had flooded and the battery had worn down. I have it on a good quality battery tender/battery minder but that couldn't top it up enough before the teens below zero weather hit that night and froze the battery.

Yes I know I should have put the regular battery charger on it... It was only 26 months into the 72 month battery warranty so the replacement didn't cost me too much. It's a full size auto battery mounted on the rear of the chassis along with some steel plates for weight, a PO mod that I have left in place.