Archive through March 07, 2012

[mpatterson]

Keep going Dennis, I feel like a little kid sitting here listening to you stories. You have pictures too!! Come on, we all enjoy history lessons with old black and white pictures. I bet everyone worked damn hard back in those days - but I'd go back to the '70's & '80's in a heart beat! Those were some enjoyable years growing up. Life was so much more simpler I think. After all, aside from the internet...who needs all these new fancy electronic gadgets??? I'd be the first one to fire my cell phone out the door, followed by a few other electronic things I deal with each day!!!

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE - Nope, no pictures.... IH prohibited taking pic's in the plant. HECK, when the 5X88's were released I couldn't even go out in the plant for a month or two, I had to find out what they looked like from my Dad who talked to another truck driver who delivered a load of tires or rims I ORDERED to the plant and the tire dock was 20 feet from the end of the Finish assembly line. This driver stood there and watched a half dozen new IH tractors roll of the line while he was there and I'd have possibly been fired if I walked out in the plant.

I've had cell phone issues in the past, seems technology has finally improved so I can talk on them without issue, and I can see the cell phone tower from my place it's so close. Now my wireless broadband Internet is a POS, I upgraded from 3G to 4G about 6-8 months ago, lost my Unlimited data plan, my monthly bill has doubled and the 4G service is "MAYBE" as fast some days as the old 3G was. Most days it's slower. I've gone back to bitch at least 3 times. The local phone store "Does NOT care". I told the store manager that if the connectivity & service didn;t improve that I'd spell relief, "A-T-&-T", she rolled her eyes and said, "Let me know how THAT works for you". I was so mad I had to walk out.

Some things are better now than 30-40 yrs ago, lot of things are worse. I look at the part & accessory sales brochures Kraig posts and think back to when I saw them back when they were printed in the 60's & 70's that all that stuff seemed REALLY expensive then.

 

[mpatterson]

That had to just about kill you NOT to go look at the assembly line! Where's James Bond's photo glasses when you need them? Slap them on the truck driver while he was standing there watching.
Yes, SOME things have improved...but a lot of things that have changed REALLY didn't need to change. In all seriousness did we all REALLY need to get to work driving 75 or 80 mph, show up with our knuckles white as snow because the stress of SO MANY people on the highway or freeway doing the same thing. All who of which should just have got their a$$ out of bed about 20 mintues sooner and enjoyed their coffee on a leisurely drive to work! I guess I am too old fashion, I normally am not in a rush to get anywhere and I show up on time, cause I leave myself the proper amount of time. It drives my kids and wife NUTS when we are going to a family function or something - they always wonder why we leave at the time we do and why we are ONLY doing the speed limit? Way I see it, I have enough stress in my life everyday with work, why the heck would I add to it if I could prevent it??
Cell phones just bug me. I hate talking on them and would love to just have one sitting in the truck incase it broke down, then I would turn it on to call someone, otherwise, shut the dog on thing off and let it collect dust on the dash.
We recently had a new cell tower installed about five or six miles North of town, no joking the thing is so tall (partly because it was errected in a low spot)they have it lit up at night for airplanes! The wife said it looks like a space ship, I didn't beleive her until she took me there one night, it looked like little green people were landing!

 

[bjamison]

Couple of Questions - I hope I'm at the right place.

One of the things I'd like to do with my 1650 is use a moldboard plow with it. I have experience with this using a sleeve hitch and a Brinly 10 inch plow on some other color tractors.

How do I approach sleeve hitch implements with the 1650? Should I use a 3 point hitch with a sleeve hitch adapter on it or is there a sleeve hitch arrangement for the 1650?

Secondly, the other color tractor I have has a limiting device that sets a depth or limit to how far the hitch/plow can go down. This puts a great strain on the lift cable as the plow wants to be pulled down into the soil and I have broken one cable plowing. With the hydro lift of the 1650, I guess it's either up or down (is there a float position). I've seen some plow day pics where some IH Cubs have a 3 point hitch plow, but it looks like there is a depth gauge wheel to limit the depth of plowing. I think I can adapt one to my Brinly 10 inch plow - my question is - how well does this depth wheel work? Or do you folks plow without one?

I think as some point down the road, I'd like to plug into a plow day event too.

Lastly is the 1650's tranny (and the whole tractor) tough enough to handle ground engaging work like moldboard plowing....

Thanks!!!!!
Bill

 

[rfuller]

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot, but I've been interested in loaders lately, I've seen in the manual section about them, Would anyone have any pictures showing the shwartz 1050QT loader. I'm really curious about the sub frame and the hook ups to the up right post.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob F., I assume you saw the Schwartz 1050 QT loader in this catalog CCC Allied Equip Catalog That catalog is the only place I've ever seen one. I scanned that catalog many years ago, it came with the Cub Cadet 2072 that my parents bought new in 1986.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill, yes you need the Cub Cadet rear lift aka "3 point" lift AND a Brinly sleeve hitch adapter. The lift limit would be set with the lift straps on the sleeve hitch adapter and they have slots to allow for some float. It is a very strong setup and yes, the 1650 is very capable of plowing, you'll want lots of weight and ag tires for the best traction. However, turfs with chains can do a good job, even plain turf tires can do OK depending on the soil. The Brinly CAT-0, 3 point plows do have a depth wheel, not sure how well it works, I've only used one once on my Allis Chalmers 620. If you have any other plowing questions I'm sure Steve "Mr Plow" Blunier will be here shortly to tell you all you'll ever want to know about plowing with a Cub Cadet...

 

[snicklas]

Bill,

There is a Sleeve Hitch Adapter for the Cub Cadet rear lift. There are a couple of different styles, but they still do the same thing. But, you also have to have the rear lift installed also.

Here is a picture of one type of adapter, which is a reproduction of the original Brinley:
http://ccspecialties.org/hitchslotted.jpg

You also need a rear lift. If you look at this picture of the rear of my Dad's 149 (Wideframe series, same as your 1650). It has the rear lift on it (See the rockshaft just below the fenders, right below the seat). It also had the gearbox/mount for a tiller. If you look at the bottom of the tiller "hitch" you can see the ears of a bracket below the vertical pulley, and beside the horizontal pulley. This is the other half of the rear hitch. With his hitch, you remove the tiller gearbox and reinstall that bracket, that is where the "U" shaped adapter connects, and the round bar is inserted into the hole in the upper rockshaft, and that is what makes the rear lift work with a sleeve hitch piece of equipment.

Here is a link to just the bottom "U" bracket that is the bottom of the hitch...

http://ccspecialties.org/pics/3ptbracketlarge.jpg

If you look at the 3 holes in the wide part of the plate, they bolt onto the same 3 bolts as the "trailer hitch" is normally installed. (The bottom 3 holes in the transmission.

Your Last question..... yes it is more than strong enough to handle ground engaging work. We plowed a 100' x 100' Garden every year, for 20 years with the tractor in the picture. That was with the weight of the tractor, chains on the tires, my 250lb Dad in the seat, and my 200lb self standing on the plow as "live ballast". I plowed my garden with my 1450, with my 350lb self in the seat and my 150lb son on the plow and chains on the tires, In one pass I hooked a tree root (this was virgin ground) and running the tractor WOT I killed the engine, and a later pass, hooked a different tree root and pulled the front wheels off the ground about a 12-18" before I could back off the hydro lever... none of the plow or tractor part "moved".... they are very strong. The hydro rear is very similar in design and strength to the rear in a Cub Tractor, and the Cub Lowboy, on the gear drive cubs, it is the exact same transmission!!!

 

[rfuller]

Kraig, That would be the one! I couldn't find any pictures on the web either. maybe no one ever bought one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob, you could be right. The catalog only has a drawing, perhaps they were shopping that around to see what interest there was...

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - Hmmmm Plowing with a 10" Brinley behind a 1650? I'm not a real big fan of the Quiet line series of CC's, much prefer the 169 over a 1650, but YES, They are an excellent plow tractor. I've seen pic's here of Wyatt Compton pulling a 1-bottom 16 inch pull-type plow with his 169, your 1650 should handle something like that too.

Like KRAIG said, you'll need the typical added rear weights & ag tires, or turfs with chains. Frt weights are optional IMO, too much frt weight hinders weight transfer and ability to get rear traction.

I've always set my manual lift lever on my CC #72 that I plow with to the float position and let the plow find it's own depth. With proper adjustment it plows a consistent 5-6 inches deep in all conditions. I was at our PD #2 where the ground was rock hard plowing in the fall after the soybeans were combined while the ground was wet and the ground was hard as blacktop. I had to apply down pressure thru my sleeve hitch which reduced traction slightly, but if I could have gotten my 12" cresant wrench back I could have adjust the plow and got it plowing better without that. The add-on guage wheels do a fine job of holdng the plow at a consistent depth but really aren't needed IMO. I find it silly that some people make weight brackets to add weight to their plows to keep them in the ground, proper adjustment allieviates that. Only time I needed weight was when I pulled my Ohio Steel Fabricator's 10" plow off my Cat O to sleeve hitch adapter with my 982, If I could have gotten SON to stop for a minute or two I could have adjusted the top link of the 3-pt or the plow and got it working properly. But riding along standing on the plow frame was the closest I got to "seat time" on MY 982, SON did let me plow one round later in the day.

If you want to know how TOUGH your 1650 is, read my post from yesterday 3-7 @ 4:33 PM, those trash carts weighed about 1200# EMPTY, hook 2-3 behind any other brand of tractor for 8 or more hours a day and see how long it lasts?!?! Now do it 5 days a week, 50-52 weeks a year for several years!

 

[stanner]

Found some Round Tuits

Here are Pics of the 13 fin K321 14 hp Kohler.. This is a 1980-ish vintage motor...

I have additional pics if needed..

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

30# on a Brinly plow makes adjustments MUCH easier and allows for better plowing at higher speeds, as you can flatten out the share to cut a clean furrow.

Weight NECESSARY?....no.....VERY HELPFUL....YES!!!

Even our big IH 700 plow has a single (full) IH wheel weight bolted to the beam at the tail wheel to fine tune the depth and quality.....

 

[bjamison]

Kraig, Scott & Dennis - thanks for your help!

Dennis - I read your posts earlier about the IH Cubs being worked at the factory, very interesting stuff! My first "car" was an IH Scout, 1970 model. I think it was an 800A. It was a light blue with white top. It had a 196 cu-in engine and a four speed transmission - but first gear was not a granny gear. That was a GREAT vehicle and I wish I had it today.

Just curious, what is it you don't like about the Quitelines and why you prefer the 169 over the 1650. Not looking to hit the hornet's nest, just trying to get myself schooled on these IH Cubs. I'm guessing the differences I can see off the bat that might turn some off are the ISO mounts, maybe not having a starter/generator or maybe 3/4 front axle spindles? Again just curious.

Thanks!!!!!
Bill

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis F - hey thanks for the explanation on the differences between the GD and Hydro rearend. I'll have to study that cross-sectional info in the manual. Not being an engineer but almost a shade tree mechanic, I can understand how a gear drive works but don't have a good understanding of the slush box theory - even tho I Love'm.

The stories from you and Ron are great. How about giving us one every day?

Scott T - glad you finally found some of those round-TUITs. I know you been looking to get them for along long time. What's the deal with the 13fin 14hp. 12vs13 fins on the 16hp had been a question but I think it was pretty much decided the 12 at 14's have 13 fins. Did I miss something? It is interesting that your block has that cast quarter size spot on the lower fins but it's not drilled and tapped for the muffler box mount for an AQS style block (used in the Quiet Lines). I don't believe the earlier 14hp blocks before the xx9 series tractors, had that cast spot.

Bill J (under edit)- just to jump in, a 1650 is just a 169 in disguise (covers on the engine and quiet features so it don't rattle). Ain't no Hornets nest - I think that was a Plymouth. Suspect your question will get alot of responses (I love it).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (they are One Tough Tractor)

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[stanner]

HH,
Per my original post a few weeks ago, this engine was supplied by Kohler as a sample for use in industrial equipment... I had to adapt this to fit a stock CC oil pan..

 

[hydroharry]

Scott T - oh now I remember. It was planned to be used for an A/C compressor or similar. Did you have to chop the ears off the base or something? Also, its interesting Kohler put the serial/spec tag on the front of the shroud rather than the side by the carb/coil. They must have known where/how these engines were intended to be used - or I guess ask the purchaser where they wanted the tags placed. Biggest question - How Does She Run??? Does it have those great addictive Kohler exhaust fumes??? (I sure love my seat time when I get a chance).

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - is that Bill J in the pic of the Scout??? I know you're GREAT, but I didn't realize you were really THAT GREAT!!!!


Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (powered by Kohler)

 

[bjamison]

Kraig - that's my Scout!!!! But that ain't me in it...

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Got a question regaurding removal of PTO bearing lock collar and drive pully hub assembly on my kohler k241 that came out of my cub cadet 109. I have removed all of the jam and lock set screws from each hole as well as the set screws on the drive pully hub. The PTO came off just fine. My question is what is best way to remove lock collar, bearing and drive hub pully without doing any damage to the pully. I have checked facts but cant seen to find any specific tricks of the trade for the removal of these parts. I have soaked it with wd-40 overnight. I was going to try a 3 jaw puller but it seemed like it was going 2 deform the pully when I began to tighten it up. Any help would be great. Thanks Terry