Terry G - sorry but your message was short and many of the guys may have overlooked it. There should be something in the FAQ about removing the PTO clutch and the basket pulley. If you don't see it in the initial list then you have to click on "Charlies FAQ" which is link at the top of the Forum FAQ page.
Just to re-confirm what you said - you're already to remove the PTO "bearing and locking collar", and then the "drive or basket pulley" (you already have the PTO clutch pulley removed). I'll provide some of the info but I'm hoping some of the other guys will jump in since it's been several years since I did one of these.
You can use a 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the bearing BUT before you attempt that you must make sure the locking collar has been "rotated to the un-lock position". Hopefully your basket drive pulley is free on the crankshaft so you can slide it back enough to see the locking collar. Do not slide the basket pulley back anymore than you have to in order to see the collar. Once you can see the collar then you need to rotate the crankshaft until you see a small round indentation in the collar (about the diameter of a pencil eraser). Use a hammer and punch at the point of the indentation to rotate the collar into the unlock position. If I recall correctly you want to rotate the collar in a clockwise direction as you look at the bearing while in the front of the tractor. If the collar doesn't come free after a few hits then I got the direction wrong - try the other way. It should come free pretty quickly. Once it's free you should be able to just move it back off the bearing towards the basket pulley and leave it there until you have the bearing off the crankshaft. Now, before you install your 2 or 3 jaw puller on the bearing itself you need to make sure the crankshaft is free of rust. I recommend some emory cloth or steel wool to brighten it up. The bearing is a fairly tight fit and any little rust will lock it up. Also, make sure there are no burrs, or you'll never get the bearing off. Once you have the crankshaft clean go ahead with your 2 or 3 jaw puller. You should be able to pull that bearing off without any real difficulty. I think I only had one where the case on the bearing separated but I was still able to pull it off by just adjusting the puller jaws. Once the bearing is off you can slide the locking collar off, and you're ready to prep the crankshaft so you can remove the basket pulley. Clean that crankshaft up nice with the emory cloth or steel wool, and absolutely no burrs. Once it's clean I'd coat it with some penetrating oil, and spray some into the pulley itself where it rides the crankshaft. I would not recommend using the 2 or 3 jaw puller for the basket pulley. It will distort the pulley and you probably won't be able to straighten it. At this point I like to very carefully try using some pry bars behind the basket pulley. Make sure you're prying on the center of the pulley and the other part of the bar is against a solid part of the engine block. You need to switch your pry bar from the left side to the right side and work that pulley forward. Hopefully you'll get it to move without to much difficulty. Once you get it forward into the clean area of the crankshaft you should be able to slide it off almost by hand. YOu might have some difficulty with the key in the keyway. I don't recommend pushing the key thru towards the block unless you have the pulley moved forward about an inch. YOu don't want to be pushing the key into the crankshaft seal on the block. And any burr on the key will just cause the pulley to hang up more, so hopefully the key will slide along ith the pulley. I should have mentioned before, but if you're just working over the PTO clutch and or replacing the bearing there is no reason you actually have to remove the basket pulley. You should be able to just slide it back enough to get at the bearing locking collar and leave it there until you have the new bearing and locking collar installed. The only risk with this is using this approach it may be difficult to slide the pulley forward into the correct position once the new bearing is locked on. The crankshaft behind the basket pulley tends to get rusty and the pulley may slide onto this rust out of the way, but be very difficult to move forward again once you are at that point again. If this happens you'll end up removing the new bearing and collar then spraying penetrant again where the pulley rides the crankshaft. Good luck with this. Sometimes it can be a real bear. Now that I gave you the whole story someone else may pop in with a slick trick to removing the basket pulley without bending it.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but their bearing do sometimes get stuck)
