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Archive through March 05, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rrschmitt

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Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
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Ron R. Schmitt
Don T,

The clutch on the right is the correct one for a 125.

Terry D,

Much good advise here on the removal of your set screws in the PTO clutch. Make sure the hex edges of your allen wrench are sharp, i.e. not rounded on the end. Get a new allen wrench if necessary. I always tap on the end of allen wrench with a hammer to make sure they are driven fully down and bottomed out into the hex of the set screw. Sometimes dirt will accumulate in the hex of the set screw and you have to get it all out with a dental pick or small stiff wire and compressed air before you attempt removal. Make sure you wear safety glasses and/or face sheild when using compressed air to blow out the dirt in the holes.
 
Harry, Harry

I know what kraig meant. the one one the left is a brake style like I used on my 129 loader and has two clutch release springs . I think I will use it and later take it apart and change it to brake style. I have the parts here and I like those style PTO`s . And NO I`am not painting it and then take it apart later .
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Predy paint won`t make it last longer !
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Don-

Shame on you. You're gonna put a rusty looking ole pto on that nicely painted tractor??????

I hope you have the grill to help hide it.
 
HARRY - I doubt you can slide the basket pulley back far enough to get to the set screw on the eccentric locking collar on the pilot bearing. There's no need to anyhow, with the puller the bearing & collar come right off anyhow even though they're "Locked" onto the shaft. You may have a small nick in the crankshaft to dress up lightly with a flat file afterwards.
 
Don T., here's what the deck sub-frame for the 125 should look like:

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Under edit: Hydro, note the Philips head screws in the PTO in the photo above... Not sure if they used both straight and Philips type screws interchangeably back in the day or??
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Edit#2: A quick survey of some older service manuals shows Philips head screws were used for both NF and WF...
 
Look what followed me home after a good bath and change over to winter gear for the incoming snow storm. Found this nice 105 up in North Judson IN, swapped my Wheel Horse for it. Came with the wheel weights, a nice rust free 42" mower deck and the ratty snow blade. Runs excellent, a little hard starting but the carb cleaning helped that a bit. Cheers Mike
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well I got the point saver all put back in place and the new choke cable
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. Did you ever lay a clip down and it can`t be found
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I need three of the allen screws to lock the pto screws in place. Off to town I go for allen screws lol.

Thanks Kraig ; for the sub frame picture
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Hey - pto is off! I very much appreciate all of the good advice and want to share a little info on how it unfolded. First, the front end of this 122 has been exposed to the outdoors for years and years and therefore VERY rusty. The engine was "stuck" which turns out was merely a result of the pto basket pulley being wedged against the head of the bolt holding the s/g bracket to the block. Looking at everything after the fact, the PO only put three Allen screws back in the pulley, two of which were completely rounded out and one was removed. I went with Dennis' advise to just pull the whole pulley off with a jaw puller and deal with the Allen screws later on the bench. Well, that worked but not without a small problem. As it happens, the bearing was rusted on good and when I pulled the pulley off the shaft the bearing stayed put as well as the remaining Allen screws and as a result it busted the pulley apart right where the screws were housed. Had the bearing came off at the same time I think I would have been fine. Anyway, it is off, the engine is not stuck, and I did manage to salvage most of the hardware (pressure plate, special bolts, springs, pulley basket) so just need a pulley. Could have been much worse and just glad that rusty mess is apart. One other thing - the PO had left the Allen screw exposed on the locking collar and had actually place a nut on it! Beats me! So thanks again for all the help - I've learned a couple things (rust sucks, etc.) and my little 122 is one more teeny step towards returning to its former glory!
 
Couple other pto questions then done. First, can the three pronged piece on the front of the pto be used after it's been sprung from prior installation and two, I have a couple discs off another pto that used the two discs instead of the one that's thicker and wondering if they are ok to re-use. They're in good shape and FREE.
 
Mike T

Looks good!!!

I agree with Kraig. If you want to trade that seat for a slightly used tall black one (only 1 year old)let me know.
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The part your butt sits on looks great, the pan is trashed, looks like a monster sat on it, busted the whole way around the metal brackets. I wish it was good as I like that seat on this model. A white seat looks so much better than a black on on a cub. Gonna talk to a couple of boat guys and see if they can fix and reinforce it a bit. Mike
 
Hello...Wondering if anyone has a suggestion for keeping my QA42 snowthrower belt tight? Had 7" of fresh snow to clear from my driveway today...after repeated attempts to keep the belt tight (by hand turning the adjuster), it works well for about 25 feet then becomes too loose to maintain sufficient momentum. Any ideas??
 
Steve I dont have a picture but most guys including my self drill a hole and put a nut and bolt in place to prevent the adjuster from spinning
 
Thanks Jeff. I didn't know this was such a common problem...I thought it was just mine. I'm reluctant to drill a hole but I'll do it as a last resort.
 
Just drill the hole......it's an improvement, Harry doesn't deduct points on working implements!!!!

....Or you could use wire, but the hole is the most secure.

Done right it looks factory anyway!


I had the 782 with Super 42" barking pretty good tonight in about 6" of wet sloppy stuff!!!!
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Thanks, Steve B...apparently breaking out the drill is the way to go. Glad yours worked well...mine did too when things were rollin'!
 
Steve,
I drilled a hole in the proper position and tapped it with a 1/4-20. I used a bolt +/- 1 1/2" - 2" long to keep the adjuster from turning out. Then I used a 1/4-20 wing nut as the jam nut. With the wing nut you need to carry a wrench all the time.
 
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