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Archive through March 01, 2009
- Thread starter theaton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Okay, so I bought this old 107 tractor not running but was told it ran back last spring. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway, started doing some trouble shooting. First, battery was dead took to Advance Auto yesterday confirmed it was bad, Purchased new, installed this morning, changed oil, checked wiring that could be seen of course it's old and brittle but seems in tack.
Depressed clutch and set lock. Turn key switch and nothing, zero response. Well to start eliminating different areas, I looked up which post to hook to on the starter before putting power to engine. Applied power to starter, starter turns over the tractor fine, not super fast but from listening to different starting videos on the net over the last few weeks it sounds the same. So, I assume starter is functional. Well, of course it did not just start up like I hoped. Continuing further, I pulled the plug to check spark, turn engine over and no spark on the plug. So the easy stuff is over and I am into where some experience is needed, If I had the wiring digram or a better understanding of the starting circuit maybe I could eliminate more. Ignition circuit could be keeping the spark off but I don't really know. Share your knowledge, thanks, Micah
Depressed clutch and set lock. Turn key switch and nothing, zero response. Well to start eliminating different areas, I looked up which post to hook to on the starter before putting power to engine. Applied power to starter, starter turns over the tractor fine, not super fast but from listening to different starting videos on the net over the last few weeks it sounds the same. So, I assume starter is functional. Well, of course it did not just start up like I hoped. Continuing further, I pulled the plug to check spark, turn engine over and no spark on the plug. So the easy stuff is over and I am into where some experience is needed, If I had the wiring digram or a better understanding of the starting circuit maybe I could eliminate more. Ignition circuit could be keeping the spark off but I don't really know. Share your knowledge, thanks, Micah
Micah C., Have you checked the metal strap that contacts the brake pedal safety switch? They tend to break. Click on the FAQ'S page at the top of this page and then on Charlies FAQ'S page. #60 will get you a correct wiring diagram for your 107.
Todd, the safety switch was by passed way before I owned found wires from switch wire nutted together. Don't even see the switch or the bracket anymore. So, safety was not someone biggest concern. I found the wiring diagram. Tracing down terminals now. So far it's a mess, wiring in worse shape than I thought. So brittle wire coating cracking and falling off. It may be my biggest and only problem. I know solenoid probably needs replaced the post rusted really bad. I am afraid to even touch I figure they will break first turn of wrench. So, anyway looks like I have to address the old wiring and eliminate that issue first. Anybody got an old wiring harness cheap?
Micah The switch mounts in the frame crossmember beside the steering gear. If you have the original fabric and rubber coated wires,the wiring harness is pretty much a lost cause. New harnesses have plastic coated wires. The harness likes to fail along the frame rail beside the engine,too. My 126 failed completely and I removed it in two pieces. The harness can be replaced with the engine in place,but it is easier with the engine removed. I have done it both ways and will take the engine out to do it. There are some clips under the dash and by the steering gear that are a stinker with the engine in place. I would try to save the solinoid,mine looked terrible,but cleaned up nicely.
Wayne, thanks for the info. If someone has a picture of the safety switch and location it would help. I see nothing underneath, other than than the wires that where bypassed.
Yeah, the wiring is the original, hopeless cause is right. I think your right about the wires running thur the frame work. I would bet they are touching off, I don't think nothing is grounded out battery temp stays cool.
I will find a harness, it seems they are plenty on the net. Just did not want to spend $60 - $90 bucks for one. It don't look worth that or that complicated. So, I may just make up my own. Either way, old stuff has to come out. I have the Solenoid post soaking in penetrating oil. I will take my time with it and see if I can save it. Nothing like project work huh?
Yeah, the wiring is the original, hopeless cause is right. I think your right about the wires running thur the frame work. I would bet they are touching off, I don't think nothing is grounded out battery temp stays cool.
I will find a harness, it seems they are plenty on the net. Just did not want to spend $60 - $90 bucks for one. It don't look worth that or that complicated. So, I may just make up my own. Either way, old stuff has to come out. I have the Solenoid post soaking in penetrating oil. I will take my time with it and see if I can save it. Nothing like project work huh?
On my IH Cub 72 the front tire spindles are froze. Is there a possible way to get these off? I've tried soaking it with pb blaster and it still won't budge. Maybe heat?
sean corder, I read on one of these sites , A guy who is a machinist said that when he had a stud or bolt that was froze ,he would get some wintergreen from the drugstore and put on it and the next day it would screw right out. My wife buys wintergreen oil} at the grocery store. I have been waiting to try it.
Rich
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Sean C.-
Are you saying the spindles are stuck in the axle casting? If PB Blaster isn't doing anything, it's time to get the torch out to heat up the axle casting around the spindle.
Are you saying the spindles are stuck in the axle casting? If PB Blaster isn't doing anything, it's time to get the torch out to heat up the axle casting around the spindle.
They are stuck in the axle and had been soaking for a couple days with repeated soakings. I figured as much. Thanks for the reply and happy cubbing!
Tim K., I used a one inch piece of round stock. I borrowed a stock lift rod from a buddy for measurements. One inch is a bit of overkill, but I had the bar just lying around. The mounting pins are both 1/2 inch reciever hitch pins.
I want to add a hydraulic system to a (128)gear drive to run a standard cub rear lift cylinder and valve . I have cylinder, valve and a pump. Working on plumbing and reservoir. Does the reservoir need to have a breather or would it be a sealed system? How big should the reservoir be?
Well Guys I went deere hunting this weekend and found this!
I was thinking I found a rare Cub CaDeere but the guys on the JD site said I need to come over here and ask if you good guys can help me out! SO CAN YOU GUYS HELP ME OUT??????????
Rick
I was thinking I found a rare Cub CaDeere but the guys on the JD site said I need to come over here and ask if you good guys can help me out! SO CAN YOU GUYS HELP ME OUT??????????
Rick
