Rob,
I always double nut the studs and install them first with anti-sieze, but torqued to more than 35 ftlb. Then, with the double nuts taken off, I install the head. I use anti-sieze on all of my head bolts/nuts. Most torque settings require that the threads be oiled for consistant and accurate results...I substitute anti-sieze.
I justify this based on my prep work (chase all threads with tap/die) and the fact that if all of the fasteners are lubricated with the same lube they will not vary in torque ratings any more than a similarly oiled fastener. I have always believed that consistant torque across all of the fasteners, applied in the correct sequence is much more desireable than obtaining the exact torque value stated in the manual inconsistantly.
Hit the head gasket with a shot of copper-coat or high temp AL paint, torque and retorque after a full heat cycle following the pattern, in steps, to the desired torque value and you'll be good to go....wether the threads have oil or anti-sieze on them.
Failure to re-torque after the engine warms up and "settles in" is probably the biggest killer of head gaskets out there.
Todd M.
Never replaced a relief spring....too bad about the recent string of NLA stuff.
Dave M.
86 will probably leave you wanting for power on a thrower, but the frame style is very serviceable and it's probably more collectable than a 122. The 122 will be harder to work on due to the narrow frame design, but should serve you well. IMHO for a work tractor it's very hard to beat a 149...hydro/hyd. lift, lots of features, easy service/access, and plenty of power without going to the "shakin' 16"