Archive through June 29, 2009

[dtanner]

Randy J. Bean (Rjbean) I would use the weld a nut fast to the stud trick, it works great. ez outs need to be drilled real deep to work at all. i have broken sets here.I just used that same deal with my welder last week on the right side bolt on my 129( head ). it holds the top tin and the piece next to the shroud. Good luck and lots of pb blaster won`t hurt. .02 Later Don T

 

[fcurrier]

What a difference a paper towel in a rear housing can make!

Still a lot of tweaking, but hydro working well. She's even been upgraded to auto relief valves. Test run was twitching some trees that I'd cut last year.
Richard: Yes and yes.

Don:

 

[rjbean]

Thanks, Kraig and Don,
Excellent suggestion, tack welding a nut on....
2 problems, I don't have a welder (or know how to weld for that matter)

and the stud is broken off flush....
Thought about having a nut tack welded in to hold a stud......

 

[kmcconaughey]

Randy, I don't weld either but I know people that do know how... By using a nut the weld is done inside the nut so it doesn't matter if the stud is broken off flush. The person doing the welding just has to be careful to not weld the nut to the block.

 

[bbrigham]

I've done the weld a nut trick quite a few times, taught to me by an old timer, I think the biggest help to the trick is the heat generated by the weld. I've seen a couple broken bolts come out of machinery that I thought would never come out and they spun out like they were new.

 

[mgonitzke]

I've slowly been cleaning stuff up for the 100. I placed 2 orders for engine parts today, and I need to get decals on the way ASAP. I drove up into the cheddar curtain today to pick up another K241 that'll be donating its oil pan and some sheetmetal to this tractor. I have a few large things to clean/sandblast, and I'm going into town to buy paint and take in the starter/generator to have the terminal replaced and the coils removed so I can paint the housing. So hopefully we'll have some PRIMER/PAINT pictures in the next couple of days...!...

Oh, and thanks to all who helped with the shifter. a 3/8" bolt, washer, nut, and piece of pipe as a slide hammer, and it's apart and cleaning in the electrolysis tank.

 

[dblake]

I do not know what happened, but I tried to reply to Luther this morning; and came back to see if anyone else replied back;and there was NO evidence of my post from about 9 hours ago (about 9 AM; 6:30 local time now) Thanks but I have already seen that "line drawing" and it is not clear enough to answer everything that I need to know; I spent over 2 hours between this site and Yahoo in general last nite; nothing better than that line drawing yet; too many links to Ebay among other things.
I am unclear on things like where it shows the spacer with the grease fitting at the back of the spring; I swear it was on the other end closer to the throw out bearing (which would definitely make sense; what good does a grease fitting do back there BEHIND the spring?) and the spacer/teaser spring; the teaser will actually drop inside the spacer (which is how I seem to remember) yet from what I can see it goes the opposite way from waht I am thinking it does; cannot tell for sure. anyone have an actual picture of one? I would very much appreciate it; I had it reassembled once but just did not "look" right; had the guy that made my new SS shaft returned the old worn out shaft taht would answer some of my questions by the paint-marks etc as to how things were; like which of the 2 "center" holes the roll pin goes into on the shaft, where that 1 single washer goes (ahead or behind teh spring) this is the 1st one of these I have ever had apart; and in the time it took me to get the parts in "I forgot" how things came apart. HELP PLEASE

 

[bnolte]

My painting problems with the 102 seem to continue. Yesterday we had a brief rain shower in the early afternoon that gave way to less humidity and a bright partly cloudy sky. I took the air hose out and blew what little water might have been in the cracks away, and checked the weather radar. There wasn't a storm within a hundred and fifty miles in the direction of the prevailing winds, so I went ahead and painted. As you might guess, less than 2 hours later a small thundershower develops practically right overhead.

Water accumulated and puddled on the flat tops of the fenders, the seat pan, and the tunnel cover. I blew the water away with the air gun the best I could, but the finish on tops of the fenders in particular is mottled, and alligatored. Looks like the seat pan will have to come off and get stripped, then repainted again, but the rest of the tins don't look too bad.

Today I decided to strip the hood. Got most of the paint off, but it still needs a little work with steel wool or my rotary stripping pads.

And, its raining again

 

[rbarnes]

I really enjoy reading all the info on here and wanted to share a couple of more pics, I wanted to get the 127 done by this past saturday but its taking longer than expected(as usual) but its almost done. After making my own wiring harness I wish I would have just bought a new one but it did turn out nice even though I used all one color wire(black) and sodered every conection and used shrink tube. But on the plus side I still have 470ish feet left in the roll I bought, it was cheaper in bulk. Anyway hers my progress so far and I plan on painting the wheels tomorrow and mounted friday...we'll see how it goes...

 

[dgallagher]

I have a leaking hydraulic hose on my 169. They are available thru Cub Cadet at about 30.00 per. Would a local fab by NAPA work? Anyone had any experience with this? Thanks