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Archive through June 27, 2006
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Anthony O.
Yes I did and thanks so much. I thought I emailed you,but I guess senility set in that day. I'm going to scan them and put the on cubfaq.com.
Oh yea, it's that floppy wheel thing on the tail of an old plane.
Well One headed down the road this morning, I figure about 10 more and I'll at a comfortable stage.
(Message edited by Cproctor on June 29, 2006)
Yes I did and thanks so much. I thought I emailed you,but I guess senility set in that day. I'm going to scan them and put the on cubfaq.com.
Oh yea, it's that floppy wheel thing on the tail of an old plane.
Well One headed down the road this morning, I figure about 10 more and I'll at a comfortable stage.
(Message edited by Cproctor on June 29, 2006)
Anthony Owsley: Thanks for the feedback. The engine was rebuilt some time before I got it - and I've had it now about 5 years. It uses/loses almost no oil at all. (How can I check the breather reed valve?)
I have the replacement seal and will install it tomorrow and button everything back up. I learned the hard way that the "front" of the engine actually faces the REAR in this installation. This caused me to get the incorrect seal initially.
The service manual states to drive the seal "flush with the bearing plate". Can you describe this more fully??
I have the replacement seal and will install it tomorrow and button everything back up. I learned the hard way that the "front" of the engine actually faces the REAR in this installation. This caused me to get the incorrect seal initially.
The service manual states to drive the seal "flush with the bearing plate". Can you describe this more fully??
K. Fass
When you drive the seal you dont want the face ( the part facing you when the seal goes in) to protrude beyond the crankshaft bore and you also dont want it to be driven so it sits below the lip of the bore.
here's a quick example with the middle dash being the seal.
protruding
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- -
driven too far in
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flush ---
I hope that shows the idea ok.
To check you can use a straight edge and sit it across the face of the case. If the straight edge toutches both the case and the seal while staying paralell to the case then the seal has been driven flush.
(Message edited by kmoe on June 30, 2006)
When you drive the seal you dont want the face ( the part facing you when the seal goes in) to protrude beyond the crankshaft bore and you also dont want it to be driven so it sits below the lip of the bore.
here's a quick example with the middle dash being the seal.
protruding
-
- -
driven too far in
- -
-
flush ---
I hope that shows the idea ok.
To check you can use a straight edge and sit it across the face of the case. If the straight edge toutches both the case and the seal while staying paralell to the case then the seal has been driven flush.
(Message edited by kmoe on June 30, 2006)
fbainbridge
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2006
- Messages
- 27
- displayname
- Fred Bainbridge
hI CHARLIE When i took the drive shaft out of my 1650 there was a steel ball at the hydro yoke that fell out,could tell me the function of this ball. FRED
Kenneth F- i have the Kohler tool kit(the 1700.00+ kit that im required to have). the seal installer sets the seal IN from flush .120". but you'll be OK at flush. put some of your favorite RTV on it like Dennis said, it'll go in easier. with the tools i got i dont usaully use RTV on the K series PTO seal but the KT and Magnums i do (their aluminum blocks the RTV helps hold it in). sometimes i use RTV on the flywheel side seal on the K series because some are a bear to get started straight. these tools wouldn't be hard to make if you had access to a lathe. T
forgot about your breather, it's in the valve cover behind the carb. if its not smoking dont worry about it.
(Message edited by aowsley on June 30, 2006)
forgot about your breather, it's in the valve cover behind the carb. if its not smoking dont worry about it.
(Message edited by aowsley on June 30, 2006)
Acouple weeks ago I posted a problem with my K241 overheating and then stalling out.I tried everything that you guys suggested to no avail.I read in the kohler manual(which I bought at your suggestion) and it suggests checking the grass screen and the breather.But it doesn't show any diagram as to where those parts are on the engine. Does a 241 have a grass screen? Is the breather under the plate below the carb? If I remove the plate should I have a new replacement gasket ready? What can I expect to see in the grass screen or breather that would overheat an engine? Do they fill up like a dirty air cleaner or clogged air vents? Any other ideas of why this machine overheatsafter about 45 minutes of running well?
Bob M,
Here's where the grass screen is/goes.
You really should remove all the sheet metal from the engine and check the fins and flywheel for debris or mouse nest.
(Message edited by Cproctor on June 30, 2006)
Here's where the grass screen is/goes.
You really should remove all the sheet metal from the engine and check the fins and flywheel for debris or mouse nest.
(Message edited by Cproctor on June 30, 2006)
Bob M,
You might just find something like this!
You might just find something like this!
rbedell
Well-known member
Bob M:
Here is a Air Flow Diagram for the K Series. Air is drawn in at the inlet screen. The flywheel has blower fins on it. When the motor runs, the blower establishes air and the sheet metal (ductwork) channels the air over the block & head fins. As it was said, all this has to be Clean. The greatest amount of cooling is going to be accommplished at full RPMs.
Here is a Breather Breakdown. There are two different gaskets that probably should be replaced.
Here is a Air Flow Diagram for the K Series. Air is drawn in at the inlet screen. The flywheel has blower fins on it. When the motor runs, the blower establishes air and the sheet metal (ductwork) channels the air over the block & head fins. As it was said, all this has to be Clean. The greatest amount of cooling is going to be accommplished at full RPMs.
Here is a Breather Breakdown. There are two different gaskets that probably should be replaced.
In regards to drive belt longevity, I used to go through a belt about every other year. Then the bearings finally seized on my 44C deck & I had to replace them. Needless to say, I was not doing a good job of greasing them. Since then I keep them greased, and everything else, and the belt I have on it now is going on 7 years. The manual says "grease is cheap, use plenty of it". No truer words were ever spoken in a manual!
I was going through some OLD stuff today and found this, Maybe someone in Illinois would like to comment!
prightmyer
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2005
- Messages
- 38
- displayname
- Peter A. Rightmyer
Broke the driveshaft in my 129 the other day. I was wondering if anyone has tried to modify the hub connection on the flywheel end and use a "rag" joint connection like the opposite end has as it goes into the hydro unit? I noticed that my dad's 682 has rag joints on both ends? I wouldn't think that strength would be an issue.
Peter,
That's a great modification that works well. Takes all of that annoying rattle out of the drive line. Did this to a 169 several years ago and it's still going strong. Plan to install it in my 107 when the engine goes back in.
That's a great modification that works well. Takes all of that annoying rattle out of the drive line. Did this to a 169 several years ago and it's still going strong. Plan to install it in my 107 when the engine goes back in.
Norm - This season I just started to use my mower deck on a regular basis and the first thing I did was empty a fair amount of grease into all the grease fittings. I hope to have the same impressive results you've had.
