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Archive through June 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie and Frank... don't forget the 706 and 504
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. Maybe the early 656. They also had the four screw IH emblem which according to a couple of IH dealers were used on the IH trucks. If you use the part number on the four screw IH emblem the truck dealer will present you with the orange/black color IH. The Cub dealer couldn't even cross ref it over.
 
Frank M- Kohler never told me it had to be inoperable, just a like-like replacement. in other words, it had to have a Kohler to begin with. you have to fill out a card with original model, spec., and serial numbers,and the replacement engine model, spec., and serial and send one to Kohler and one to the EPA. i cannot replace a Briggs or any other engine with a new Kohler K series, thats against the rules.(which i dont like!LOL) T
 
Just replaced a 14 hp with a New one from cub and there was no problem with keeping the old one or anyone caring what happened. Was done with a cub dealer, great service!!!
 
Thanks Charlie. I did not read your reply until just now. What I ended up doing was putting a long narrow pipe through the puller - and against the frame - and pulled it off.

Having now taken this all apart, I see how it all goes now.
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Well, my Hydro 129 keeps coming up with new problems. Seems the starter/generator doesn't work now (I think I fried it).

Is it possible to pull start this tractor by
wrapping a cord around the front puller?
(While I look for a replacement starter/generator).

It goes counter-clockwise, correct?


Thanks
Nick
 
Ron S., Wyatt, and Jerry H.,
Thanks for the response last week about the steel pulleys for the tiller operation.

Tiller owners:
Well, I am now the proud owner of a #2 tiller. I haven't had time to mess with it yet. Sheesh. Heavy as sin they are!

Question: Do you guys ever service the chain drive housing? The Owners Manual says to leave it alone BUT, after 30 some odd years of use or neglect, I gotta wonder if the thing isn't bone dry.
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RAY - Dad & I sold off a couple Cubbies yesterday. His 129 had a tiller that He rebuilt about 2-3 yrs ago.... bearings & seals in the chain case. Probably isn't a bad idea to at least make sure there's oil in the case after all these years. Then see where all it runs out of! I ran the tiller about a month ago.... They really work nice.
 
Nick H- i think rope starting your 129 will be extremly hard, do to the fact its a hydro. pulling all that, ive never done it and wont. find some rebuilder to check your s/g out, i dont know what you did to it but it may not be that bad. be carefull. T
 
Ray,
I thought the same thing when I picked up a 1A tiller a couple of weeks ago.
36171.jpg

You could hear and feel the loose chain when you moved the tine shaft back on forth. I disassembled the whole tiller to get at the chain box. When I got the cover off the chain was very clean and still wet from lubrication. Unless the tiller threw a bearing at one point I would suspect the chain box is very clean on the inside. If you want to inspect the condition of the chain box and how clean it is just remove one of the bearings from the tine shaft. This should give you enough access to check for dirt or mud in the box. If it looks clean just throw some heavy weight oil in the box to lube the chain. I used a bit of this.
36172.jpg

If you do decide to replace the chain it will cost a bit. That is some heavy duty chain.
 
Ray - I was thinking about ya over the weekend knowing that you were on your way to pick up your new-to-you tiller. I didn't realize it was a #2. Let us know how it goes.
 
Terry B,
What's with the can or mini-bucket setting above your tiller mount?
 
Bruce, I think that is a hydraulic filter as Terry has a custom hydraulic lift setup on his 147 for his one armed loader.
 
Kraig - Probably not a bad idea to have a bit of extra weight on the front of a tiller tractor... I know the frt end of Dad's 129 was kinda light when I used it.... and I loaded it in the pickup for the new owner Sunday and the truck was parked uphill in the ditch and I thought the frt wheels were going to come up when I drove in the bed of the truck. The nice thing is they just fit in an eight ft box with the tailgate closed.
 
Denny, Terry has mid mount weights on that 147 too. If you look at the upper left corner of that photo of Terry's tiller you'll see the weights that he has mounted just ahead of the foot rests. Look down the page at the other photos of Terry's 147 and you'll see more pictures of those weights.
 
Terry,
You're hard to keep up with. The tiller as shown is beautiful. Thanks for the advice.

Mike,
It's all a matter of time on this end. My son and I are attempting to rebuild the 17.5 Briggs that he toasted a couple of weeks ago (left the dip stick cap off). Gotta still rebuild the 7hp for the Original that Tedd Ill sold me.

And now the rusty tiller. BUT WHAT A MACHINE. . .
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All:
All these tiller parts seem like the right size to put into a lye bath. Can anyone recollect the process. (I'll hunt the archives. . .) Is it straight lye? 50/50?

Where's Bryan?
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<font size="-2">probably still on the train eating Krispy Kremes</font>
 
New Study

A South American scientist from Argentina, after a lengthy study, has discovered that people with insufficient brain and sexual activity read board posts with their hand on the mouse.

Don't bother taking it off now, it's too late!
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I want to equip a Cub Cadet 100 with 15 inch rims on the rear. I was told to look for old Dodge or Plymouth rims because they had the same bolt pattern. Has anybody else have any knowledge on this before I go off on a wild goose chase. Thanks Merton Of Eastern NC
 
Anyone know the history on the IH Gremlin?
36178.jpg


Kraig,
I took a couple pics for ya.
36179.jpg

36180.jpg

36181.jpg

BTW, the brushes on that sweeper I got the other day are shot!
 
Merton,

The wheels have a 4.5 inch bolt circle. Check your email, I am sending you a text file with a list of cars you can look for.

JimE
 
Nick H,

Your Starter/Generator probably needs a new set of brushes and a good cleaning. A pair of Delco/Remey brushes will cost about $5.00 at a reputable auto parts store or a mower repair shop. Take the Delco model number on the name plate along to make sure you get the correct brushes as S/G's use a different type of brush than a regular generator. Check the bearings while you have it apart for smooth operation, replace if necessary. Clean the grooves out on armature brush plate ring with small screwdriver. Blow out the brush dust from the field housing with compressed air (wear safety glasses). A S/G is not that hard to repair if you want to do it but it can be dirty. Alternatively, a local repair garage could easily fix it as well if you want to pay more but it shouldn't cost an arm or leg.

Trying to pull start a 12 hp engine...I wouldn't want to go there as there's no groove slot to put the starter rope knot end through. The 7 hp Originals were the only cubbies to have a recoil hand starter but they were a much smaller engine with a manual transmission.
 
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