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Archive through June 22, 2006
- Thread starter glturney
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Ray L,
Yes, you should use the solid steel idler pulleys w/ball bearings on your mule drive when operating 1, 1A, 2 or 2B tiller on all Cub Cadets prior to the 82 series. The solid steel pulleys are needed in order to maintain adequate tension on the long 3/8" wide drive belt back to the gearbox. The stamped sheet pulleys won't hold up very long under the higher tension loads and loading from the tiller. The solid pulleys will work fine for mower operation as well assuming you have a 38", 42" or 48" mower deck with center mower drive pulley on center with the CC. You will need a separate mule drive for tiller operation if you have 44" or 50" mower deck as the idler arms on the mule drive are at an angle for the off-center mower drive pulley. The 82 series went to the 5/8" wide "B" belt and a heavier duty mule drive so the larger stamped sheet pulleys on those will work fine for tiller operations but you may still need a separate mule drive depending upon what mower deck you have due to the issue noted above.
Yes, you should use the solid steel idler pulleys w/ball bearings on your mule drive when operating 1, 1A, 2 or 2B tiller on all Cub Cadets prior to the 82 series. The solid steel pulleys are needed in order to maintain adequate tension on the long 3/8" wide drive belt back to the gearbox. The stamped sheet pulleys won't hold up very long under the higher tension loads and loading from the tiller. The solid pulleys will work fine for mower operation as well assuming you have a 38", 42" or 48" mower deck with center mower drive pulley on center with the CC. You will need a separate mule drive for tiller operation if you have 44" or 50" mower deck as the idler arms on the mule drive are at an angle for the off-center mower drive pulley. The 82 series went to the 5/8" wide "B" belt and a heavier duty mule drive so the larger stamped sheet pulleys on those will work fine for tiller operations but you may still need a separate mule drive depending upon what mower deck you have due to the issue noted above.
Ray-
The pulleys will handle the belt tension without spreading, HOWEVER the bearings will not. The solid steel pulleys have a replaceable bearing captive by an internal snap ring. I use the same mule drive, just in a "locked and tensioed" configuration with the tiller. They work fine for mowing operation.
The pulleys will handle the belt tension without spreading, HOWEVER the bearings will not. The solid steel pulleys have a replaceable bearing captive by an internal snap ring. I use the same mule drive, just in a "locked and tensioed" configuration with the tiller. They work fine for mowing operation.
tbordeleau
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 89
- displayname
- ted Bordeleau
What's the consensus on Gator-style mulching blades? Do they do a good job of mulching, without serious, annoying/detrimental side effects?
jhillegass
Well-known member
Gary T.
I have some saved info on link dimensions at home I can send later.
Ray L.
I've seen that too in the 1A tiller manual. So far I have not had a problem with the stamped/riveted pulleys. I don't run my tiller at very high rpm's, which I guess helps reduce the stress on the belt and pulleys.
I have some saved info on link dimensions at home I can send later.
Ray L.
I've seen that too in the 1A tiller manual. So far I have not had a problem with the stamped/riveted pulleys. I don't run my tiller at very high rpm's, which I guess helps reduce the stress on the belt and pulleys.
I'm trying to find a service manual for my 129 Hydro.
The operators manual says the service manual is GSS 1439.
I can't seem to find this specific service manual anywhere.
Has it been replace with a more up to date one?
Would any of the manuals that claim to cover the 129 work?
I'm trying to fix the creep problem - so I need this manual.
Thanks.
The operators manual says the service manual is GSS 1439.
I can't seem to find this specific service manual anywhere.
Has it been replace with a more up to date one?
Would any of the manuals that claim to cover the 129 work?
I'm trying to fix the creep problem - so I need this manual.
Thanks.
I am sure by now everyone has seen the one arm loader I built.
I decided to build a backhoe attachment for the one arm. I pull the two one inch pins to drop the bucket, then switch to the backhoe attachment. You do have to back up to dump the load but it works quite well and it pretty quick. The digging depth is 40 inches. I could go another 6 inches by pulling 6 inches of dirt out from where the front tires sit. This would lower the tractor front 6 inches. Any more than that might be tough to back out of.
Anyways here are he before paint pictures.
I decided to build a backhoe attachment for the one arm. I pull the two one inch pins to drop the bucket, then switch to the backhoe attachment. You do have to back up to dump the load but it works quite well and it pretty quick. The digging depth is 40 inches. I could go another 6 inches by pulling 6 inches of dirt out from where the front tires sit. This would lower the tractor front 6 inches. Any more than that might be tough to back out of.
Anyways here are he before paint pictures.
jhillegass
Well-known member
Gary,
The sketch that I had was a big file, so I emailed it to you.
The sketch that I had was a big file, so I emailed it to you.
Terry B.
That backhoe attachment looks like it sure comes in handy. Even if you have to back up to dump the bucket, it is still easyer on the back than useing a shovel.
You do some great work building that stuff.
That backhoe attachment looks like it sure comes in handy. Even if you have to back up to dump the bucket, it is still easyer on the back than useing a shovel.
You do some great work building that stuff.
Sorry, I had the day off yesterday. Here's the lift link dimensions.
Please note that the drawing I just posted is for a link that would be used for a grader blade to prevent it from floating. To make it a standard lift link make the 3 holes on the top end into a slot.
Terry, nice backhoe! That could sure come in handy! Is your next project going to be a claw for it?
Terry, nice backhoe! That could sure come in handy! Is your next project going to be a claw for it?
Got a question about my Cub Cadet 100. I replaced the motor/generator and voltage regulator but it is not keeping the battery charge. Idle voltages at the regulator terminals are...
GEN = 13v
F = 7.0v,
BAT = 12.7v
L = 12.66v
Are these readings correct? Manual shows 2 adjustments, cutout relay at 12.8 and regulator at 14v but it is not clear to me where each is measured.
Steve
GEN = 13v
F = 7.0v,
BAT = 12.7v
L = 12.66v
Are these readings correct? Manual shows 2 adjustments, cutout relay at 12.8 and regulator at 14v but it is not clear to me where each is measured.
Steve
jmetzinger
Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2005
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- Jeff Metzinger
I am growing tired of my 149's continual drip off the rear end cover. This occurs after plow days (removing sleeve hitch) and removing the tiller. The gasket, even new, still drips HY-Tran by and leaves spots in my garage.
I am contemplating installing studs like others have with thin jam nuts. I cannot find any 3/8" grade 8 studs locally, but did locate 3/8" grade 8 redi rod. What length should I make the studs?
I also am thinking of making a plate, same thickness as the jam nuts, with three oversize holes slipping over the jam nuts/studs, to make a shim per say. This will allow the sleeve hitch to put even pressure against the rear end housing when plowing instead of pressure on the three jam nuts surface. Hopefully not allowing the studs to bend or break. Any opinions on this idea? Thanks, Jeff
I am contemplating installing studs like others have with thin jam nuts. I cannot find any 3/8" grade 8 studs locally, but did locate 3/8" grade 8 redi rod. What length should I make the studs?
I also am thinking of making a plate, same thickness as the jam nuts, with three oversize holes slipping over the jam nuts/studs, to make a shim per say. This will allow the sleeve hitch to put even pressure against the rear end housing when plowing instead of pressure on the three jam nuts surface. Hopefully not allowing the studs to bend or break. Any opinions on this idea? Thanks, Jeff
Has anyone used a 12hp Kohler carb on a 14hp Kohler? My 129 now has an almost new K321 with a fixed jet Walbro. It uses about 30% more gas than the old worn out 12hp and doesnt seem to have any more power. The old K301 used about a quart of oil every hour, but kept the bugs away. Anyway, most easily checked things on the engine are fine - timing, points,plug, air filter etc etc. Also backfires bigtime on shut down, even after letting it idle. I was thinking an adjustable carb would be a good idea.
