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Archive through June 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Steve R:

Since you have a new S/G and V/R, I doubt there is a problem there. The other thing that comes to my mind, is it wired correctly..??

Here is a Wiring Diagram for your reference:
36129.jpg
 
Lynn,
I am running a #26 carb on my 149 right now. It had the #30 on the engine when I bought it used but it never ran right. I had soaked it in carb cleaner twice with out much success. My 129 seemed to have as much if not more power. I bought some spare 149 parts and in them was the engine with carb, but it was a #26. I put it on my 149 and now it is a new tractor. It does burn a little more fuel than 129, but it sure handles the 50" deck nicely. I have power to spare when I need to speed up to get the grass cut a little quicker.
 
Well there's a few less Cubs in Michigan!
Here's a few that decided to leave with us,
36132.jpg

You just never know what you'll see along the way,
36133.jpg

36134.jpg

And then I get home and find that the big brown truck left me a package from MTD.
36135.jpg


I'd like to THANK MTD/CCC, CUB CADET FULLFILLMENT and Dan Lamb for sending these out for FREE!
And Hank Will for spreading the word.
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Terry, thats a great idea! I was wondering how well the one armed loader works vs. the standard loader setup?
 
hi charlie The starter bendix on my 1650 needs replaced because of some chipped teeth. I got a kit from CG but sent it back because it is not like the original. Would you know where to get the orignal one piece bendix. THANKS FRED
 
Fred,
It's kinda hard for me to believe that Ken & C&G can't send ya the right piece. Mistakes in shipping happen ya know. I'd send them an email or call'um up and see what they can do for ya, JMHO
 
Roland,

Your diagram is great, it has the lights. I have a diagram and have checked that it is wired ok. It's the voltage at each terminal that seems wrong, especially the BAT terminal while engine is running.

Steve
 
Charlie-
Love that pic of the CFD fire boats. They have their stuff together they buy the right brand of pumpers!
 
Fred B:

I went through the same thing last year with my 1450. IH used different vendors and models for their starters. You will have to match the bendix with the brand and model you have.
 
Steve R:

Voltage at the Battery should be the same on B Terminal on the V/R. L Terminal should also be the same, maybe a tad reduced (ie: .1 to .2 V).

From my previous, obviously, new parts should work OK, but there is always few that slip through that have a problem, hence the reason for warranties.

Here is a Check Out Procedure:
36145.jpg
 
Steve R- run it at half to full throttle and see what you got. i just checked a red one(not IH) the readings i got at full throttle:
Gen.-17.7
Batt.-17.7
Feild-1.6
Load-17.7
sorry Roland, your post wasnt there until i sent mine.


(Message edited by aowsley on June 24, 2006)
 
Thanks for the info, guys. Tried the troubleshooting tips and found the wires were ok a 0 ohms. Shorted the F term at the v/r and rpm dropped. Plus, the voltage at the BAT term increased to over 15v. This makes sense because the voltage at the + term of battery while running should be greater than at rest, same as in a car.

At this time it looks like the v/r is either bad or needs adjustment. I suspect it is not an exact replacement 'cause i got s/g and v/r from an auto shop that specializes in electrical repairs.

It's too hot out right now, so later I will take cover off the v/r and see what adj I can try. I remember messing with v/r's back when cars had generators. There will either be an adj screw or a bendable armature stop on a relay.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Hey fella's I need a hand. I'm trying to remove the front PTO clutch from my 107 so I can replace the crankshaft oil seal.

I've removed the 6 set screws but it is not coming off. Can I use a puller and pull against the "button"? I was afraid to try this without checking first.

Any help please?
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Kenneth,
The first thing I would ask you is, have you soaked it really well with PB Blaster or Kroil?
If you have, then there's the bearing seperator method, posted by Paul E. Funk (Pfunk) on Friday, January 09, 2004
36148.jpg

36149.jpg

Or you can use pry bars but you take the chance of bending your pulley.
OR, you can try the chain and YANK method if your brave.
Personally I use a slid hammer clamped to the PTO, BUT you gotta spray it and let it set for a day or so, JMHO.
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I acquired a new toy today. I has the IH emblem on it. I discovered something interesting when I was working on it. It has an "Original" part on it. The hood ornament is identical to the Original Hood Ornament. Maybe this is a known fact, but I did not know it. I took off the ornament from the big tractor and compared it to one of my original hood ornaments and they are identical. The large tractor was built during the same period as the original. Also the IH emblem in the grills are identical. That did not surprise me but the hood ornament did. See if anybody else knows what model International has the same ornament.

Also did not know that if you want to buy a brand new Kohler for Q/L or earlier, you have to give a similar engine so it can be rendered inoperable. EPA rules. Was visiting a local long time cub dealer and he still has a 12hp for the Q/L series. He was telling me what had to be done to purchase such an engine.
 
Frank M,
If i'm not mistaken the 140,240,340,460,560,660,1066 and O's all had the same ornament. I'm sure someone will correct me if my brain was off AGAIN.
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Digger:
You probably are correct. The tractor I purchased was a Model 404. You missed that one, but I won't hold it against you. It was interesting to me. Thanks for the additional Model Numbers. I figured others knew more than I had discovered.

Wish one or more of my originals had as low a serial number as the 404. #2204. The closest I come is 7xxx.
 
Charlie and Frank "M",
That's what they used to call cost cutting, now it's called "Lay offs". 8-(
 
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