Archive through June 19, 2007

[fmorski]

Kirk:

The only business Johnny Rockets has is the cruises. I was at the cub patch while the cruise in was happening. Saw the crowd when I was getting back home.
Have added 7 more to the patch since you were there.
Got an original that is near perfect w/rear PTO, a 106 w/rear PTO, a 782, 2-102's, 129 and original(4 digit serial 13xx). Did some work for another guy who is supposed to deliver 4 more, 102, 129, 100 and something else.

 

[rnajecki]

Charlie, I'm looking forward to seeing those brochures! Will you have the MSRP's?

While working on my 149 with the broken PTO bearing, I recalled the trouble I had a few years ago with my other 149 and it's PTO clutch. I installed the 759-3489 clutch kit, and all new levers and screws, to spec and after running a few minutes the pressure spring (with flat tips) would slip causing the throw-out levers to come off the groove of the thrust button. I tried another kit and had the same result. The pulley and its rim were in good shape, so I couldn't see why the spring would slip. I then got the 759-3490 PTO clutch kit, which is for manual transmission CC's. The only difference between the kits seemed to be the spring tips are bent inwards on this kit. This kept the springs in position within the rim of the pulley, and thus the throw-out levers stayed in the thrust button groove. I'm wondering why Cub Cadet made two different clutch kits/pressure springs, since the Hydro and Manual trans PTO pulleys are identical and the kit with bent spring tips seems to offer a more secure installation?

 

[mfriesen]

The springs that I previously asked information on were not the jackshaft pillow bearing springs that Kraig posted. Correct me if I am wrong Kraig, but wasn’t that from the IH Shredder/Grinder operator’s manual? An interesting sidenote regarding the illustrations from that manual, the unit frame is different from the one in the Illustrated Parts Breakdown in the CPE-2. The CPE-2 is the correct illustration for my 59M. The IH Op. Manual would indicate metal to metal contact of the rotating assembly with the frame which, I would think would cause much induced vibration to the entire assembly during hammer-mill operation. I wonder if that was a McKissick (sp) illustration?
The following is from the CPE-2:

The springs in question are part 18. Mine appear to be ~3 to 3 ¼” L by ~7/16”D compression type and are closed, ground ends. (Like valve springs) They are flat or semi-flat wire but are too far gone to tell the diameter. The spec. on supporting weight or lb./in. of deflection of the springs required to support the rotating assembly on one side would be helpful. SWAG? The other side is the pivot axis. The springs also maintain tension on the rotor to jackshaft belt. You can’t just go to town and look or purchase from an assortment of springs where I live. Thanks for any opinions.

 

[mbounds]

Marion F: There are two versions of the 59M. One has those springs and the other doesn't. Ya gotta make sure you have the correct manual for the version you have....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[bmcmeen]

59M springs:

IIRC, the CPE-2 had shown the springs in question as NLA, thus the discussion years ago about how to find them elsewhere.

Looking at the online parts list (click on the button above and enter 59M in the model search box) one can see both versions of the 59M (1973-1974, 1974-1977). Spring #18 is part 59-638-C1 <font color="ff0000">and is NOT NLA</font>. So why bother with sourcing them elsewhere?

These springs were meant to maintain belt tension. The later model used an idler pully, thus obviating the need for the springs.

Frank M. -

It should be obvious that if they stopped offering 59Ms in 1977 that they didn't intend for them to work on an x82

The info is out there, you just have to look and connect all the dots...

 

[mfriesen]

Thanks for the input, you all.
I'll just take a WAG and order some from Mc&C and see how it comes out.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marion, yes that photo was from the IH Operator's Manual for the 59M.

 

[digger]

Roy N.
You mean stuff like this?

Or do ya mean like this?

 

[bmcmeen]

Marion -

I've edited my previous post, perhaps making it a bit clearer. They're no longer NLA, so why guess when you can get what's supposed to be there? To save a couple bucks?

 

[mfriesen]

Bryan,
Thanks for the info. The information I was given was they were NLA for several years.

 

[jbanbury]

Thanks Everyone,
It is hard to imagine why somebody would do such a thing to tractor when the parts are available.
The 107 looks like someone loved it once... it looks to be well cared for until the "weld job".
There aren't many Machine Shops left here NW Ohio, at least none that I've met that want to replace a crankshaft on an old lawn tractor.
If they do, they want near as much as a new engine. Which leads me to this question, that I was looking for in the FAQ.
I have heard that the Kohler K 241-A 10hp engine can be replaced with a Kohler K 301-A 12hp engine.
And it is an easy replacement with no modification to the Cub required.
My question is: Is that True?
I want to say thanks again to everyone for the Advice & Support.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff B., yes the K301 is a "drop in" replacement for a K241, providing it is the same spec. for a Cub Cadet. I believe that you could also rebuild the K241 as a K301 by boring it out. I'm sure if I got that last one wrong I'll be corrected.

 

[rnajecki]

Charlie,

The former is what I'm eager to see. I'm curious what the list prices were for my 149's, 782, 42" 48" 50C mower decks, tiller, blade, and rake.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, I had a Cub Cadet 125 a few years back that I parted out (I still have some of parts, the K301 is in the final stages of being built up as a "Killer Kohler"&#153; the, hood, front axle and hydro and rear end is tucked safely away in my shed. The majority of the other parts went to revive a 105 that a very LARGE white pine tree fell on during a tornado in Northern Wisconsin several years back, OUCH!). A previous owner of the 125 had welded the driveshaft to the engine coupler.

 

[aschumacher]

Kraig, you better not tell me that YOU soldered that starter cable/lug that way!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Allen, no I did not. That's a 125 that I hauled home and immediately took apart, in my last post I told where the parts went. FWIW, that was back in 2002.

 

[mgonitzke]

Kraig/Jeff-

I think you can only bore a K241 to K301 bore if the block has "301" cast into the PTO end.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, thanks, I can believe that.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT - I better check My K241 sitting at home waiting to be rebuilt for that "301". It's an OLD one....doesn't even have the fuel pump window. If I remember right it came out of a 102. I'd like to run a 12 HP piston....I'd be loosing a few rebuilds though....Engine still has the stock piston & bore. And I'm also sure a .010" over bore would barely clean the cylinder up.

 

[mgonitzke]

I know I have one like that, it's in a 100, so even a 102 motor may be too new. But it's worth checking out, it's fairly obvious if the block is clean.