Archive through June 16, 2011

[mgonitzke]

Jeremiah-

How is the O/A torch cheating? I'd have had those all out in 5 minutes, and you'd be able to re-use them, too.

You must have spent the better part of an afternoon trying to get those out.

Another tip- heat the nut welded to the footrest, and not the bolt. That way you are thermally expanding the nut more than the bolt to make it easier to remove.

 

[dcharette]

Here's some pics of the 71 guys.I've got it pretty much ready to go back together for mowing duty.It had sat outside for a bit so I took the clutch apart,cleaned up the drive shaft,friction plate and added a new teaser spring.Also rebuilt the carb.

 

[jbliler]

Dave, Looks like someone used "cat" yellow on the mower deck. At least they had the heart to use some paint. Any paint is better than rust!

 

[jbliler]

You lucky dog,,, it's a rope start too!!!!!

 

[tbenak]

Hello all, I just acquired a real basket case original from an older gentleman I helped to replace the steering sector in. He used the original he gave to me for parts. I must be crazy but I just can't let this one fade away. I am going to bring it back to life. Question I have is what type of fasteners are used to join the frame with the gear reduction housing? Is there a dowel used?? I am confused. Any help out there will be much appreciated. This is my first swing at an original.
Tom

 

[jmolaski]

Hi all. I haven't posted in awhile because my 682 has been running solid since I worked out some initial bugs over a year ago when I first picked it up. I've run into some problems with it not running just right, and I am trying to get them worked out.

Initially, I lost the coil. It was replaced with a David Kirk super coil. I also replaced the points and condenser while I was in there. Now it will run good, as long as I don't have the air cleaner on. When I remove it the engine runs fine. Put the filter on and it starts to peter out immediately. Pull it, and it picks up again. Filter is clean. Could this be a timing issue? Maybe I don't have the points gapped correctly? I'm not sure.

Also, all of a sudden when the engine warms up to operating temp, oil starts gushing out the breather tube that comes up through the bottom of the air cleaner. I mean like a fountain. What could possibly be causing this? I don't think it is too much oil - as it shows the correct level on the dipstick. Any ideas on what I should be looking at? By the way, it is a series II engine. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Mo

 

[mschairer]

Hello all:

Ordered the parts for CCO 4740, valve retainers ect. from Madsons. Told the gentlemen that I apprectiated his sponsorship of the Forum. He seemed happy to hear that.

Mark

 

[dcharette]

Jerry,
yes ,it's a rope start.The mounting bracket for the pull start housing is in pieces though.I'm going put an SG on it until I find the part I need.
Yes,cat yellow with dirt under it!Makes for easy scraping of the paint.

 

[aschumacher]

OOps, Jerry broke it!..

 

[ljanetzke]

I am new here, I did a search but did not find my answer.--- I came because I cannot locate the trans/diff drain plug on 1450 hydrostatic drive. I bought it with tiller attachment, so do I have to remove it to find the drain? It has movement issues ie:jerky, noisy, erratic in general, I have replaced the filter, now wish to replace the trans fluid. Also would like to verify that 10w20 universal hydrolic oil from my cc dealer (tractor supply) is an acceptable substitute for the original B6 from IH.

Thanks

 

[dfrisk]

LEONARD - Welcome to the forum. There is no drainplug for the hydro on your 1450. Everyone just pulls the back cover off the rearend. Your tiller gearbox will have to come off too, but it's only three bolts that have to come off anyhow. Use a BIG PAN to catch all the old oil, there should be seven quarts in the rearend. I'd loosen the bolts at the bottom and carefully pry the cover away at the bottom to drain it.

The Sundstrand 15U hydro can actually use many different fluids, but the Hy-Tran Ultra available from your local Case/IH dealer or the sponsors above is the best of any of the recommended oils. It's what IH recommended when these tractors were new 35-40 years ago and what they were filled with at the factory so why would you want to switch? Most hydro's have run without oil related problems all those years. So I'd stick with Hy-Tran Ultra. It's not the cheapest oil, but it's not THAT expensive and it's the best.

To trouble-shoot your speed and jerky issues look for "TRUNNION REPAIR" in the frequently asked questions.

 

[jbaker]

Leonard welcome

you will find alot of info here, At the bottom of the topic page is the manuals for theses tractors

And listen to Dennis use the HYTRAN ....

 

[aschumacher]

Jerry B. sorry about saying you broke the Forum, either my 'puter is messed up or the server doesn't like me, but everything from where you mentioned 'pull start' to where I posted were not on my screen! I really don't need any help looking stupid...can manage that on my own!

 

[kweaver]

Allen - We weren't trying to hide the missing post from you ..... just the MESSAGE BOX !

 

[jbliler]

Allen,,, I can break anything! Charlie just sends me a bill when it's my fault!

 

[glippert]

Leonard - Welcome!

Dennis is right about how to drain the hydro fluid, except the tiller gearbox is held on by four bolts. The bottom center bolt also has to come out, too, but it doesn't hold the gearbox on. I'm guessing Denny was thinking of the drawbar hitch, which uses the three bottom bolts. Also, after you pry the bottom loose and drain the fluid, I'd remove the rest of the bolts and remove the rear cover completely and clean out the rear end good. When you're ready to put it back together, make sure the rear cover is flat/straight and use a new gasket to prevent any leaks. Good luck.

 

[jbliler]

Dave,,, you do know that Kraig is going to want more pics of that rope start! Most of us are never going to see a rope start cub in person. Had a CCO with part of the pull start left a long time ago. Another forum member has it now.

 

[jchamberlin]

James: I don't KNOW why the oil is gushing into the carb, but I wonder if you've developed (1) blow-by issues, and (2) if your breather is working correctly. I think I remember the oil-gushing issue has been addressed on the forum before. Have you tried searching the archives? Perhaps another forum member can pipe up with a diagnosis and solution.

 

[nhasson]

Had to get a new mower deck belt for the 149 the other day. After I picked it up, I was talking to the sales guy and asked him what size new GT I would need to run a new rototiller. He said model 25xx something or other and it would be around $3500 give or take. So I asked him about the tiller and he said he only has ever sold one of them and the price of them aren't far behind a new tractor. I think I'll stick with the 149 and just buy new tines for my old tiller. I rebuilt them and heat treated them the same as I think Terry B did back in '06. When tilling my ungrateful neighbors garden this year I broke 14 tines. Should have just bought new ones to begin with and saved myself the time.

 

[dcharette]

Happy Father's Day guys,
Just put the drive shaft and engine back in the 71.Time for bed.
Jerry, I'll take some pics of the recoil tomorrow.