Archive through June 16, 2011

[wbest]

I got this Original about 20 miles from Greencastle, IN (where I live). My good neighbor saw it in an ad in the local paper and called me about it. I did break the speed limit a couple of times getting there before the other 5 guys that had already called aobut it. The original owner died about 15 years ago. He was an employee of IH at Indy until he retired (note the decal on the hood). His best friend got it from the man's widow. He has owned it since then and had intentions of restoring it, but that never happened. It seems to be in good condition. It hasn't been started for over a year. The mower deck is solid and the blades turn free. The snow blade is in excellent condition. Steering is tight, so must have been well maintained. I'm into wide frames but still glad to get this CCO.

 

[wbest]

When I previewed the previous post, It looked great with everything in its proper place. I hit the "Post" button and it went crazy. I think we (I) need explicit instructions on posting pictures and would appreciate step by step instructions. Thanks. William

 

[digger]

William B.
Just remember to hit the enter key after you enter in each picture and sentence end.

 

[thoffman]

Nice hood orniment. Only a Dear John guy would do this.

 

[thoffman]

Daughter sent me this pic she tool of the shed this spring. Kinda' neat.

 

[glippert]

Harry B - I'm just now getting caught up with my reading here, but the answer to your question about $.80/gal gas in Minnesota: No.

As of 11:00pm tonight, E-85 (85% ethanol) is $2.899 here in beautiful downtown Olivia, MN. Our local Cenex station offers various blends for Flex-Fuel vehicles: E50 is $3.239, E30 is $3.419, E20 is $3.509, and "Regular Unleaded" which is E10, or 10% ethanol, is $3.599. Unleaded gas without any ethanol is also available, and is specified to be used only in small engines and "classic" vehicles.

When I returned to MN after retiring from the USAF in 2003, "Regular Unleaded" had already been converted to the 10% ethanol blend by the state lawmakers. I've run it in all my Cubs and other various small engines (chain saw, leaf blower, line trimmer, outboard motor, etc) since then and have never experienced any problems. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I also mix Sta-bil gas treatment in every can of gas I buy, year 'round, to ensure I don't accidentally leave something sit through an off-season with old gas in the carb. So far, so good. Hope I'm not jinxing myself!

Just to clarify for Charlie that this is on-topic, I use the 10% ethanol blend (Minnesota's "regular unleaded") in all my IH-built Cub Cadets.

By the way Digger, I'll give ya $55 for that Sweepster right now. How's that for a quick profit! And if you like that offer, I'll take that new loader, too!

 

[twilie]

Brandon W.

If you don't have an O/A torch as Matt G. suggested, just heat the screw heads with a plain old propane torch until they are red hot then you can remove them with a screw driver quite easily.

 

[hydroharry]

Greg L - thanks for clarifying that. I saw something on AOL about 80cent a gal in Minn but didn't read it before it dissappeared. I suppose that 10% stuff is not good for your valves Maybe KenTUCK has more info, but I'm thinking he's using pure natural gas.

Hey KenTUCK - Digger don't hardly read this section so you'll be fine staying in a low profile, with just short and sweet posts, ever now'n'agnn. Suggest you leave out the hugs and kisses tho.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but stay at low idle on the ready when KenTUCKs in the area)

 

[bmwitmer]

Ok since the cub is sitting I'm garage/shed and my dad has a Torch in his garage which is like 2 miles away I am going to try the plain old torch. If that doesn't work I will attempt to load it up onto the truck and take it too the garage. Thanks

 

[wshytle]

Brandon-

If you have access to a welder a good way to remove those bolts is simply weld a nut to the top. Then with a little PB they should back right out. I've always had the best luck with the impact driver. You need to get a good one with good bits for the screw heads. The Chinese crap from Harbor Freight just doesn't cut the mustard. Sears, or Craftsman makes a decent driver. You'll pay a little more but it's something you'll use the rest of your life. I'm still using one (Craftsman) I bought back in the early 70s and that includes the bits.

Just my .02...good luck.

 

[kweaver]

Actually when I took the fender / body off my 18/2082 I used my Hand Impact for the footrest bolts.
I know this isn't a Tool Thread but I bought a K-Mart brand hand impact back around 80-82 and I still use it on occasion even though I have 5 horse compressor and CP tools.

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE S. - I'd also like to suggest when anyone buys an impact driver that they get a 3/8" square drive version. I got a Craftsman 1/2" drive and by the time I reduce it down to 3/8" drive I loose a lot of the rotation of the driver.

The combination of hitting it with a hammer prevents the phillips bit from camming out of the screw head and shocks the fastener making the solvent creep in better.

25 yrs ago I worked at a machine shop and most of our machine operators had all worked together at an independent motorcycle shop before coming to work at the machine shop. They ALL used impact drivers on phillips and slotted screws which were really common screws on bikes holding on covers and engine/transmission case halves together.

ALSO remember to put a dab of antisieze compound on the new screws when you reinstall them.

 

[wshytle]

Dennis-

I have the 1/2" craftsman driver and the head/socket that came with it. The head takes a 5/16" hex bit and I've never had to downsize to 3/8" for any application. To avoid "losing" rotation I always turn the handle like I'm trying to loosen the fastener which bottoms out the turn. That seems to give the most turn with the blow. This is an excellent place to use gloves BTW. BFHs don't discriminate.

I went and bought the 86 yesterday evening. The seller turned out to be an old friend I hadn't seen in years. He had started a partial restore using a bright, sunshine yellow and the tractor has a lot of parts still loose that he hadn't put back. It does have the upper casting part of the 3 pt but no lower bracket. The rear tires are ags and have never been used. I asked him if he had the original 8 hp and he said that's the engine that came in it...a black K241. I proceeded to explain by pointing to the 8 in 86 and that the original engine was yellow as all of the earlier cub engines were from the factory. I even told him about the extended crank and that sort of convinced him. He did really let me know that the engine in it is very tight with no smoke and that's a good thing. I'll probably use the tractor while searching for an original 8 hp. I'll post pics this evening when I get it here. I'm going to need some help with the second gear repair. I've been to the manual but will still have some questions. I have a parts 128 rearend that should have what I need.

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - My impact driver is 1/2" square drive, uses sockets like a ratchet. I have to use 3/8" screw-driver sockets because I'm too cheap to buy 1/2" screwdriver sockets.

Good catch on the 86! I bet the correct K181 8 HP engine costs as much as you paid for the whole tractor. Far as a working tractor, your better off with the K241 in it. And if it was me, I'd put the correct 2nd speed gears in it. You have the choice of three 2nd gears, a 3.2, 3.9, and 3.5 MPH. The 3.2 is a great mowing gear, the 3.0 is good for plowing and misc cart toting, and the 3.5 should work for everything and that was what it came with.

 

[digger]

I think Denny broke it!

 

[jchamberlin]

All: For what its worth I broke every one of my straight bits trying to get the foot-rest bolts out of my 149. I found that heat is very helpful, even if it isn't red hot. What I wound up doing though, is cut off the head so I could get a Vice-Grip on the bolt. Even so, if you rush the process and don't let the pentrant work, you can still wring off the head. I took some photos, but I don't know if I sized them for this site.

Bottom Line: Penetrant and Patience are the most important ingredients, banging of any sort helps, but not as much as heat. Whatever method is chosen, you must be patient and work carefully. Resorting to an oxy-acetylene torch is just cheating in my book (especially since I don't have one).

 

[jchamberlin]

I found and sized my pictures. Removing the foot rest bolts was kind of an experiment with me, I wanted to see what worked on the really tough jobs. The pictures tell the story:

None of the following tools got the job done:

These tools did the job (Vice Grips not pictured)

Years ago the commercial asked the viewer to decide if the Dremel was a tool or a toy. I've considered the question carefully, and in my hands it is a tool (and sometimes a toy).

Edit: An added advantage of the Dremel in the case of the foot-rest screws, is that they uncover the bolt and allow you to really shoot the penetrant in.

Of course, once you have the power to apply torque to the screw, it is very tempting to over-reach. In one case I managed to twist the head off after applying penetrant several times (PB Blaster), cutting the bolt and applying Vice-Grips in an impatient manner, that is, without twisting back and forth to wiggle the bolt free, but just "hitting it hard" and thus breaking it off in an over-abundance of enthusiasm.

Perhaps if I had beat and soaked it more it would have finally broken loose, but as it was I decided to apply some heat with a propane torch. Just a few minutes on each bolt, just enough to thoroughly smoke the previously applied penetrant, let it cool, apply more penetrant, and carefully applying enough torque to break the bolt loose, then "wiggle it free" got the last few bolts out.

In my honest opinion, I don't think the flat blade Truss-Head screws (1x8/9) make as much sense as the Phillips Truss-Head versions (QL). At any rate, I replaced the flat blade type with stainless steel Phillips upon re-assembly. So the finished product may not look as correct as Kraig's (yes, I noticed, Kraig), but I'm OK with it. The use of anti-seize is a good one.

 

[wshytle]

I got the 86 project tractor home but I can't say in one piece. I have a feeling I'll be going back for bolts and such. I was hurried along when loading because he and a friend were heading out to go fishing. Here are a few pics.

I plan to inventory things today and then put the tractor in a dry place for the time being. I have plenty to do before I dive into another cub.

 

[lhinds]

I have found that the biggest help in useing a impact driver on my cub cadets is to support the piece being hammered on. Also use a heavy hammer

 

[dfrisk]

CHALIE - I've had that effect on a LOT of things today! ;-)

WAYNE - That's a nice looking CC. Since it's a WF should be easy to repair the internal damage to the transmission.