Archive through June 16, 2007

[klorenz]

Jim T,
The pulling tractor has 3.50-6 tri rib tires on front and 26-12-12 Firestones mounted on 10" widened rims on back.
The 100 has "soon to be replaced" trailer type 4.00-8 tires on front and 23-8.50-12 Firestones mounted on stock width rims on back.
Thanks for the compliment.

 

[bseverns]

Chris,
I had a 102 with a bad vibration that was a bent driveshaft. Thought I would quit "lurking " and put in my two cents worth.

Brian.

 

[rbedell]

Richard C:

Great idea...

 

[wbest]

I have two 782's and have replaced the starters on both. I didn't pull the engine or raise it up. It was difficult. The most difficult part is replacing the lower sheet metal bolts. I did slot the lower sheet metal bolt holes. That helped considerably.
Lurker William Best

 

[bmoore]

Richard,
I'm not sure I've seen a post from you that didn't contain cardboard in at least one of the pictures.
You didn't mention any kind of gasket. Is the shrouding loose enough that it lets in grit in other locations, so a gasket really wouldn't do any good? I am NOT picking, I just am not familiar with these engines, only have experience with the K series.
Do you use some non-oil lube such as graphite or silicone?

 

[digger]

 

[avanwettering]

I have replaced several starters on 782s and I remove the tunnel cover, use a 12' long extension and you can reach both starter mount nuts from there. It is a little tricky to get the nuts started again but can be done. I also use a long screwdriver to hold the shroud up a bit when removing and replacing the nuts. The starter will slide along the frame and come out at the front of the engine. Good Luck!

 

[aemorris]

Can some one elaborate about the 582 special? I just purchased one. Thanks Tony

 

[mhomrighausen]

Likewise as to what it says in Charlie's picture!!!

I looked at two of the three Cubs yesterday. I brought home the 482. What impressed me was the dealer rebuilt rearend and one year old front pto clutch. The engine isn't original or correct replacement and uses oil. It is IH built though.

The 1250 turned out to be a 1650. The 1650 has chains, IH weights, mower deck, Brinly plow, Brinly two section disc, and snowblade and any manuals that he can find. I was going to help the coworker get his 1650 running since it was his Dad's and has been in the family since new. It needs a tuneup and some misplaced electrical wires returned to the proper areas is all. We got to visiting and he said that he really doesn't need such a big tractor anymore and he wanted it to go to a good loving home. So, I asked how much. The terms are... I will be second owner and agree not to sell it. If I do the family has first chance at what I have invested in it. Once I get it running my coworker wants to bring his 88 year young Dad over to see and hear it run. Again... the price... $200.00. I pick it up in two weeks. I have to make room by selling a couple of other Cubs. Needless to say... OH, WOW!!! Now I'll have three Cubs to go to Plow Days and plow/disc with. Now I definitely have to save up and get a newer truck... and a trailer. The ol' Dakota probably wouldn't last long pulling a 6x10 trailer loaded with two Cubs and one in back.

(Even Angel is excited and that series design isn't one of her favorites.)

One more thing. Roland B. Would you please post a picture of your color coded wiring diagrams for a 1650? THANK YOU!!!

 

[rbedell]

Bruce M:

The purpose of the shrouds it is divert air from the fan on the flywheel forward and over fins on the cylinder jugs. Yes, one could apply or use gaskets but this would have minimal effect. If you could measure the CFM discharge at the front of the motor, I am sure you would see NO difference between test runs with and without the gasket.

BTW...I sent you an Email and never heard back.

 

[mdomenic]

Christopher, tightening jam nuts on these PTO's takes a special wrench to hold the bottom nut so you can tighten the top nut tight. I made mine from a cheap wrench at a discount store by grinding it down the thickness of the nut, works great! These PTO's are oldies but goodies when set up right.
As far as heat, yes they get hot but not smokin hot! It was slipping.

 

[mgonitzke]

Richard C.-

I've never pulled a motor before to fix that either, I just use the bent wrench I posted a few weeks back. It works great.

 

[digger]

Speaking of a bent wrench!
http://cubfaq.com/kstarter.html

 

[rchristensen]

On the starter removal on the 782's, I'm wondering if there is a difference in the M-18 and the K-17 engines. On my M-18 it was easier to just remove the six bolts in the pan the motor is mounted on and then raise one side of the engine. I didn't disconnect anything except the ground wire to the frame. Then it was easy to remove the metal side engine panel and then the starter was in a good postion to remove without any special wrenches, and I could sit on my roll around stool and it didn't require any special words.....

The best lubricant to use in my opinion is TDL. (Teflon Dry Lubricant) I use it now for locks and about anything that moves, doesn't collect dust.

 

[kide]

ANdy V:
I'm guessing that it <u>is</u> really difficult getting those nuts restarted with a 12 foot (12') extension.. Gotta stand wayyyyy back and sight 'em in, eh??

 

[ccote]

Matt,

I dug around in my tool box, until I found an old Proto 7/16" wrench that was thin enough to hold the bottom nut, so I could tighten the top one. The wrenches today are cheap soft steel, so they make them much thicker!

Anyone got any tips on the V/R adjustment? I set the air gaps as per the manual. Adjusting the the lower screw (the cutout voltage, I think) didn't seem to have any effect. The top screw (voltage adjustment, I think) would change the voltage measured at the battery. A quarter turn would go from 12.2V and a ammeter needle holding steady just a little to the "discharge" side, to 14.8V and the ammeter needle going from slight discharge to pegged on the charge side.

The vibration of the engine was so noticeable when trying to adjust the V/R, I could hardly get on any of the adjusting screws, it was vibrating so madly!

Should the engine be at full throttle when adjusting the V/R? All measurements are taken at the battery terminals, right?

Thanks!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Roland B. A BIG THANK YOU!!! I got the diagram all ready to use. Can't wait to get the 1650 home.

 

[mgonitzke]

Richard C.-

I don't believe there is a difference, the starters appear identical and the engines mount the same way. I have also had good luck with the TDL lubricant, which is what I used when I repaired all of my KT-17/M18 starters.

 

[bmoore]

Roland and Richard,
I asked about the gasket because I wondered about grit getting sucked into the area around the cover panel, drawing grit and various crud right past the exposed starter elements. Just curious. Thanks for the lube advice. Anything with oil is just the wrong stuff in a dirty environment. I've used teflon sprays, but not that particular brand. I'll take a look for it.
Roland,
I checked back and saw your email. I'll get back to you probably tomorrow. We have a Father's Day celebration today, which means I get to cook ribs outside over charcoal in the sun for a couple of hours. Good thing I have a supply of "cooling devices" packaged in handy 12 ounce bottles....

 

[mdomenic]

Christopher, try this link.

http://www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/3_pole_regulators.htm