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New Member from SE PA with a 124.

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Your124 is a narrow frame isn't it? The321 won't go in without notching it out.

Good point for those not aware, however in David's first post he mentions using the K301 flywheel and tin:

Anyway, I do have a question though. I've collected a K301 and K321. The K301 is completely unknown and has been sitting outside. It's not locked up though. The K321 had a knock and the balance gears were removed and the knock remained. I bought it as a core but haven't torn into it. My thought was to use that and the K301 flywheel and tins and put the 14hp in the 124.
 
Yup, I'm planning on swapping to the smaller flywheel rather than notch.

The only time I can see really using all 14 horses is throwing snow so I'm not really worried about cooling.
 
Well I struck out on getting the set screws out of the pto... So next up is drilling it...

I did pop the piston and rod out and mic'd the crank and it needs to be turned. I got 1.496" in one direction and 1.491" in the other. I don't have a good enough mic to measure to ten thousands but the range is 1.5000-1.4995" and it's not even close... Plus it's supposed to be 0.0005" out of round max and it's 10x that.

So hopefully I can cut / polish the crank to 0.010" under and get a different rod. Fingers crossed the bore is good.

My inside mics come on Thursday so I'll be able to check the bore out.

Also, should the rod have this much space between the piston?

Screenshot_20210518-195805_Photos.jpg
 
I found some axial play in the front bearing that made a nice clunk when you move it up and down. I didn't put a dial indicator on it but it's more than zero so...

Then the crank being out that far probably had something to do with it. I couldn't measure the rod but the crank is basically 10 under in one direction. It must have been wore out and they just bored it and put a standard rod in. Or, they didn't measure in two points for the crank.

There's a machine shop by me that does all kinds of farm equipment and such. I'm going to talk to them and see about getting the Kirk balance plate too and having that put in. Especially if I don't have to bore it.

Then it's just clean, paint, bearings and gaskets and poof! New engine for the 124. Guess it'll be a 68-70 144 soon... :)
 
Still waiting on my inside mic's... I also have to drill out the set screws and continue taking it apart so I can inspect everything. Then I'll talk to the machine shop about getting everything done.

It's still in my junk shed but at least it's on a stand now... :)

20210519_113643.jpg
 
Have you used PB Blaster or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil on the PTO set screws? Have you cleaned out the heads in the set screws? There's typically a bunch of dirt, mud daubers, etch in them that can prevent the Allen wrench from getting a good purchase. Also try tapping on the end of the Allen wrench with a small hammer as you apply torque, this can act like an impact wrench and ca nhelp loosen the screws. Good luck.
 
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