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Archive through June 16, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jthompson

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
236
displayname
Jim Thompson
Digger,
Yea I think adding 18s to the front would be more along the lines of what I would want to do. My 1450 needs tires badly so that's on my list of "things to do" as I begin this restoration.

So I can go w/ 26" on rear and 18" on front using the stock rims? Can I get the Tru Powers in these sizes?

Kirk,

I have to say that 1/4" looks mighty generous. It looks at though you'd be lucky to slide a sheet of paper b/t the tire and fender. I think that might be a tad too tight for a work tractor. Nice pic though.
 
The wheelie-bar on
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the back from some kids bike training wheels ?
 
I didn't know <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets came with training wheels ...
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Allen ya beat me!
 
Bryan;
Thanks to Richard C. for the info on for using the moog 5252 mounts on the tops and the old top mounts on the botom. Changed the mounts this morning and there is little or no vibration.
 
Charlie, thanks for the link. On another topic, Has anyone repowered a QL series with the vanguard engine. Interested in any feedback as to how it worked out. Thanks.
 
Here's a better pic of the kid's bicycle training wheels. It was one hell of a bike I got them from.
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Guys, don't get me wrong. I always enjoy reading and/or receiving the smart
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remarks on this forum!
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Kirk - You'll enjoy this one then ...

Pat - I've not seen anyone underpower a QL Cub with a Vangaurd yet ... Tom did put one in an Original once though.
 
Ok Kirk, now I'll be serious. Those really keep you from flipping backwards? It seems that they are really close to the back of the tractor, and did you use solid steel rod between the wheel and frame.
 
I figured I'd give some update pictures to the mower deck I restored. I first painted in and put the ribbon brackets back on. I didn't think that it mowed very nice so i decided to weld brackets on the front and put brackets on the back so i could put wheels on. I think it made a huge difference
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Before^
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First restore with brackets^

Final Deck (Of course I need to wash it again to make it look nice
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If anyone has questions about this feel free to ask me
 
And that was my 128th post so it worked perfectly to have my 128 in it
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Mr. Digger, can you give me some measurements on your front weight bar in the pic you posted june 15 at 9:50 if it's not a problem. looking to make one maybe out of a trashed mule drive or i know you have a better idea. thanks John
 
On the mule drive pic Charlie posted a while back the measurement is 3and a half inches from center of idler pulley to inside of mule drive frame on spring tension pulley with new belt per set up instructions.
 
Thanks for all you advice with the 1650 electrical problem. I bought a 1650 in great shape, just didn't run. It had low hours and the owner said it ran strong and then one day just stopped running. The motor wan't froze.

I took you advice and bought a new condenser. I was also able to determine that the ignition switch wasn't working. So I bought a new one of those too. Now it all works, at least it turns over but no spark. I tested the coil and I have electricity on both terminals of the coil, but no spark coming out of the coil. I would assume that this means the coil is bad. Am I assuming correct? If not, what else am I missing. I am so close to waking this monster up.
 
Kraig,
Thanks for the reply, and welcome. I sent you an email.
For everyone else, I will gather up a list of what I need and post what I can in the near future.
 
Kirk,
What are the sizes of the front AND rear tires of the tractors in the picture you posted?

Are those tires mounted on stock rims?

Those are some mighty mean looking machines.
 
I puttered around with my 106 today, and found a couple of problems. I've been searching through the archives, and haven't been able to find answers to a few questions I have.

1. How much should a 106 vibrate? This thing shakes like crazy. I know it's a one-cylinder engine, and they shake quite a bit, but how much is normal?

2. How do I adjust the voltage regulator? When I got the tractor, the ammeter needle was always pegged on the "charge" side. I have all the appropriate manuals (ordered them from Binder Books), so I tried to follow the instructions for adjusting the voltage regulator. I think the instructions were written for someone who already knows how to adjust a V/R. Can someone point me to a real basic, step-by-step set of instructions? Anyway, I muddled my way through the procedure in the manual, and it seems to run at 13.8V or so, and the ammeter needle bounces all around. Is that normal?

3. I'm still having trouble with the PTO clutch. When I got the tractor, the PTO clutch was destroyed. I bought a rebuild kit, new fiber button, new center button for the clutch and new fingers. Got it all together, and it seemed to be ok. I tried mowing today, and the mower just seemed like it was barely turning. Drove back to the garage, and found that one of the three throwout levers had fallen off, the double nuts came loose and were inside the PTO. The whole PTO assembly was smoking hot, along with the belt and mule drive pulleys. I got everything back together, and really tightened the double nuts this time. Unfortunately, one of the 1/2" cone-point set screws broke as I was putting it in, so now I've got to find a replacement. I guess my question is, why was the PTO so hot? I figure it must have been slipping. Does the PTO and mower belt normally get warm?

Thanks for any help, this forum is a great resource!
 
Like most people I have had problems with the starter on my 782 with the M-18 engine. The previous owner had drilled a hole that you could spray lubricant in and it would work for a couple of years and then start to act up again.

I finally broke down and bought a new starter and installed it today. Since you have to pull the engine or raise it to remove the starter, I decided to cut a maintenance hole in the shroud so I could clean and lubricate the starter in the future to prevent problems.

The opening I cut in the metal shroud.

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The removable cover.

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criss i have had 106 since 1970 bought it new. Mine shakes very little a flat spot on the mower belt, out of blance blades, carb adj. MY neede bounced over for years got it repaired one screw is for the amount of charge one for rate charge . the pto springs are not tight down with gage in kit , hope this helps.
 

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