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Archive through June 14, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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saved info from another saver
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>


By Brad Tuten with a hydro and a gear drive (Btuten) on Friday, October 20, 2000 - 10:21 pm:

DJL: Yes, I got mine for my 149 from Scott Madson, a forum sponsor. Quick!, you better call one of the sponsors before you get poofed! (grin)

I found these previous posts in my 'keep' file since were on the topic of paint:

Quote:

By Jim Steele Squeaky (Jsteele) on Tuesday, August 1, 2000 - 06:10 pm:

Hey Buck, under #6 where it says "Look at what stops you," would that be when the CAMERA is
pointed at ya? Yer a mighty shy guy, but you have a nice Original, as the Rev is always saying!

Kenny W. -- Standard paint disclaimer: This is what I do after about 20 years of painting cars with acrylic, everybody else can do what they want.

Now then, use a medium evaporative reducer and a hardener. The hardener does NOT promote gloss, it changes the way the paint hardens from evaporative to catalytic. The medium reducer will allow the paint plenty of time to "wet up" on the surface, so you can get a wet coat. That is the key to shine.
You can also buy slow reducer that you can use to tailor make your mix if you want to slow it up on dry time even more for hot, humid conditions, etc. The slower it dries, the more attention you pay to not glopping it on too thick and to letting it tack up well between coats (when I smoked, a one-cig time frame outside was enough between coats).

In winter, use fast reducer to avoid lots of runs, etc., even in heated conditions. Slow it down by adding slow reducer. We used to use straight xylol to slow up reducer, but I had access to it at the paint factory.

You want to watch for "fish-eye" and "cratering," where the adhesion is not good and the paint makes little bubbles or "holes" in itself. You can get a fish-eye preventative to put in it if you notice that happening, but it's kinda pricey so I wouldn't buy it "just in case" unless you can return it if unused.

Squeaky


===IH============================================================


By Jim chabot (Jchabot) on Tuesday, August 1, 2000 - 07:27 pm:


Kenny:

Some might tell you that you can paint it any color you like, after all it's yours isn't it! On the other hand there are those that will steadfastly maintain that in the absence of a serial tag, what you should do is ship it to the East Coast Institute for Advanced Cub Cadet Studies, prepaid of course, where it can be properly disposed of. A serial number tag is kinda like your health, without it you don't have anything!

All kidding aside, if Harry says that it is #935 then by cracky it is #935. Of course you can paint it #902 and no one will be the wiser with the possible exception of the 400 or so that regularly visit this site! If you chose to go the #902 route you will need to buy paint from the automotive aftermarket, that will bring you some gloss.

The CASEIH paint is ok to use, the only problems that I've found with it is that it is on the thin side and doesn't cover as well as automotive refinish products. Another thing to consider is that it takes a couple of days to dry, although thinning it 8:1 with an automotive enamel reducer and the use of a hardener will improve the drying time and the durability of the gloss. Remember, as Jim S said the hardener will not improve the gloss it will improve it's durability however.




Just paint it... <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
that was paint #2 txt file ... can't find #1 which would be the one with the PPG numbers that Jim posted once.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dan Hoefler (Dhoefler) on Tuesday, June 6, 2000 - 08:52 pm:

I have been getting a lot of questions about the finish on the tractors. For what it's worth, here is my system.

*Everything gets dismantled
*Each part is sandblasted, including motor, trans, sheetmetal, everything
*Each part is filed to remove all sharp edges and nicks
*All visible areas of frame and major components get a skin of mud to fill all rust pits and rough areas
*All mud is blocked flat with 120 paper
*Two wet coats of Pittsburgh Aquapon primer is applied to each part
*Each part is wet sanded with 400 gritt paper
*Each part is inspected for sandscratches and pits, scratch putty is used to remove them, then primed again
*As many assemblies are put together as possible
*Final wet sanding with 400
*All parts washed off with water, blown dry and wiped with a lint free cloth
*Three full wet coats of catalyzed Ditzler Delstar Acrylic enamel
*Pray the paint doesn't slide off and end up on the floor

I use a gravity feed HVLP Sata Jet NR-95 spray gun, they are very pricey but worth every cent. I do not clear
anything.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
KENtuckyKen, I guess I should do a better job of searching my own archive. I did save this text:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

IH number first then the aftermarket number:

MTD
935 - 759-3259 spray, 759-3264 qt
483 - 759-3258 spray, 759-3263 qt

PPG
901 - 8665
902 - 90592
935 - 91607
483 - 81518

Martin Seynour/NAPA
901 - 99L-3965
902 - 99L-10649/99L-3416
935 - 99L-11934
483 - 99L-3857
483B - 99L-34748

DuPont
483 - 27849
483B - 27849
935 - 59664 <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

And this (I also have the photos to go with it but I won't post those now. Sigh!):
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Jim Chabot on Tuesday, August 21, 2001.

I spent part of last Sunday out in the shop painting a hood for an original, and I took some pictures of how I do it. I'm not claiming to be an expert cause I'm most certainly not! Hopefully these pics will help out some, and if I'm doing something wrong then hopefully the experts will chime in and help me out.

First step is to get the surface prepared properly, I've found that if you miss this step you might as well apply the paint with a brush, because nothing looks worse than properly applied nice shiny paint over a rough poorly prepared surface!

I start with a good epoxy etching primer and wet sand and tack rag it before applying the paint.



I use an HVLP gun with a gravity feed cup. This overhead cup design will pay for itself in paint and thinner savings in short order. You can literally mix up and spray a thimble full of paint with very little waste!!



A pyrex mixing cup makes easy work of mixing the paint in the proper proportions, as indicated by the instructions provided by the manufacturer. The pyrex cup can be cleaned and reused over and over again, this one has been through 5 tractors, a trailer and a couple of pickup truck paint jobs.



Start out by applying paint to all of the edges, sharp contours and other hard to reach places. This way you get a little extra coverage where it is needed and you don't take the chance of causing a run by trying to paint these areas after the paint is already on the flats.



Next spray a light tack coat over the entire surface before laying the paint down in earnest. This will promote better adhesion and will allow thinner coats thus avoiding runs while allowing the paint to "wet" the surface uniformly.

Caution, holding the gun in one hand and the camera in the other is not good practice!



Heres the finished product waiting for the clear coat.



And here's the empty paint cup!!! Look ma no waste and real easy clean up!!! <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
those were the numbers I wuz lukkin fer !
I've got it saved again but not on my old cub cd
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Maybe someday somebody will burn some cds with cub info on them ...
 
DALE M. - Your plowing pic CAN'T be of a truck R/C racing track! No curves, jumps, whoops, etc. The summer after Son stopped racing real serious Our R/C club made a track that had a jump OVER itself in the corner. You had to travel 4-5 feet in the air, land and turn left while spiraling down so You could shoot thru the gap between the take-off and landing sides of the jump that was maybe 3 feet wide. I did do a fair amount of Track Grooming with My #72 Cub Cadet & belly blade for several years. Typical track building day for Our club was Me, Son, and maybe 2-3 others to man shovels, out of a club with 70 paid members!. FRANK M. - Dale needs to let 2-3 PSI out of His inside tire to get that dual down on the ground. Dad & I ALWAYS plowed with a dual mounted. The furrow wheel gets perfect tractive conditions and the benefit of the weight transfer. The land wheel needs ALL the help it can get. I've seen 4020 deares with Diff Locks go up difficult clay hills at an angle to the Right because the land wheel w/Dual was pulling harder than the furrow wheel. DAVE K#2 - Whatever friction mat'l used on the outboard disc brakes it MUST work when wetted with oil. For the most part brakes on a Hydro are unnecessary. Even the steering brakes on My 982 don't really accomplish much, But They're Cool! And having had some brake issues with My truck the last couple weeks, (Factory brakes ONLY lasted 251,000 miles) I can say that if You ever get CC brakes to 300 Deg. You have a REAL Hydro problem! My old gear drive #72 never builds ANY heat during PD's.
 
KEN - Dan H. used to actually post?!?! I think I've seen Him post maybe ONE other time! And He's SO FRIENDLY & Talkative in person!
 
Dennis -- it always worried me that somebody with my brakes would load a big cut oak on a trailer and head straight down Mt. Everest(spl?) riding the brakes. You know how some ppl are ...

Kraig -- I think we've pretty well covered the paint issue ... just one more tid bit ... IF IT'S WET , DON'T TOUCH IT !
 
I reckon he's into R/C's. Yeah , I called him once back in 99 I guess it was , talked about 45 minutes. They've tore down our old drive-in theater here and going to build an R/C track there. Everything's going R/C ... where's my satellite remote ...
 
I just bought a Cub Cadet 1862 serial 831472. Can anyone tell me what year this tractor was built, or how I can obtain this info?
 
one more tid bit ...
As I was spraying a kitchen cabinet set I built for a customer years ago when I did that sort of stuff ...
When you're spraying lacquer sealer then cleaning the gun nozzel as you spray to avoid any spatters, <font color="0000ff">DON'T put a lacquer thinner soaked rag in your back pocket !</font> It will make you come out of your pants in a hurry and go running for a water hose ... even if you are at a friends garage using his upstairs loft to spray in a clean area.
 
Kraig -

Dare I mention the nice paint number matrix in the FAQ?
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Welcome to the I<font color="ff0000">H</font> Cub Cadet Open Forum
 
I should have done this

David S -- Welcome to the
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Forum
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Bryan -- don't give Kraig any hints ...
 
Ken W. -

Let's try a hammer.

Dave S. -

I can tell you that your 1862 is NOT an International Harvester Cub Cadet Tractor built between 1960 and June of 1981 - which is the subject of THIS website. Please check out all the references to that fact that we've put here
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David S., there are 2 links at the top that are to Cub Cadet dealers they should have the resources to get you the information you are looking for. I have the SN info for the older models but not yours sorry.
 
David S., I dug a little deeper and did manage to find that 1992 was the year of build for your 1862.
 
KEN - Yep, sorry to say that with all the Under-Employed Lawyers looking to get back to work the liability lawsuits from making brake parts could get real nasty! People do DUMB things and then want to get something for Nothing because of it. I haven't kept up with the R/C hobby much the last couple years but I understand the electric R/C cars have REALLY jumped up in performance, and cost for that matter. Son used to race 1/12th scale road cars on carpet during the winter because it was cheap. Cars weighed less than 1-1/2 pounds, only took 4 batteries, motors were rebuildable, and tires would last for months even racing every week. The whole 8 minute race was a battery conservation contest, Who could go fast smoothly and still have some battery left for the last minute or so since GOOD batteries would last at best 6 minutes. We didn't have great batteries but Son won His share of races. Now the performance level is WAY up, and batteries last twice as long (and cost twice as much). Gas or Glow fuel powered cars are about where WE left the hobby 3-4 yrs ago. Tires get better, suspension & handling get better, and the old gas engines made WAY more power than was needed to be competitive, so they still work. Some day I'm going to make a 1/10th scale Cub Cadet pulling tractor! I still have one freshly rebuilt OS .129 cid engine sitting on the bench. It's only about .6 HP @ 29,000 RPM. It'll need a bit of reduction to get the speeds right. It'll look just Like Don's puller! ;-) Probably won't run quite as good though!
 

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