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Archive through June 10, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Richard P. You are right. The 16th is the soonest upon our family physician's recommendation I can see this specialist. I had a very restless night. The lawn needs mowing and the Keepsake 1650 needs the rag joints replaced. I am going to see if I can get a friend to come over and help with that. My heel area hurts enough to let me be blessed with a constant migraine. Just no stomp to do much anything and things are piling up around here. Two days ago the neighbor's mom and dad came over with him and they did the string trimming. Normally I mow his lawn since he has health problems. We are so blessed to have such great neighbors.

Andy T. Absolutely sweet!!!! It is great to here that your Cub is up and running. Should you have a chance post some pics of the little fella.
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Donald Tanner, I just got home from the CC Dealer and I did buy new roll pins for my 129's drive shaft. The ones on it look Ok but but had a frog hair play, The new ones have zero play. I got some pics of the rag joint mod you are refering to but I'm afraid to post them since they are on another site.
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Sorry.
 
Brad,
I live about - 65-70 miles north of Perryville. My brother lives there. What we can do is go north to another Cub collectors place, Junker John who's about 25 miles north of me. He has a lot of Cub stuff.
 
The Carb on my 105 which used to drip a little gas from time to time is dripping more and more gas... What do I need to do to have this stop and more importantly where is it coming from, it appears to be above the float bowl, if that is possible...Thx guys
 
Kevin P.,
Shutting off the fuel at the tank will end the dripping...
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.. but that doesn't fix the issue.

Sounds like the symptoms of a piece of crud that has gotten past your fuel filter/sediment bulb and is lodged between your carb's inlet needle valve & seat, allowing the fuel to keep flowing into your fuel bowl and over filling it.

Shut off the fuel at the tank. Change your fuel filter and/or clean your sediment bulb. Then if you remove the fuel bowl and gently work the float up & down a bit you may be lucky that the trickling fuel will wash the speck of crud out of the needle/seat. By letting some fuel flush through then replacing the fuel bowl you may be good to go.
If it still leaks/drips, then I'd opt to shut off the fuel again and remove the carb and do a thorough cleaning then replace and retest.

Good Luck!
RWilke
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Has anyone else had trouble driving the driveshaft pin out of the driveshaft? Mowing yesterday with the 147 and it just came to a complete halt. After the initial freaking out was over I discovered that the pin completely sheared off and now I am stuck with it in the shaft. Drill bit won't even touch it, must be hardened steel. It is just driven in isn't it? Any advice? Was hoping not to remove the entire shaft.

Randy
 
Randy
The last time I had one break I just used a punch and tapped it out. You may have to support drive shaft, I then just replaced it with a grade 8 bolt and haven't had a problem since
 
Randy, Aaron, if you are referring to the Spirol pin at the rear of the drive shaft, you do NOT want to replace it with a bolt of any type. A Spirol pin gives a little and absorbs the shock from the engine, it takes the abuse not the drive shaft or coupler. A bolt does not give and will eventually egg out the holes in the drive shaft and coupler. You especially do not want to do this with the Spirol pin on the Hydro input shaft! You should be able to drive out the broken piece with a punch. A roll pin punch works best, then a pin punch and worst is a tapered punch. (Actually one of KENtucky Ken's pin tools works best but they are NLA.)
 
Kraig,
This is the pin on the front of the driveshaft, 1/4", right next to the engine. Tried punching it but she isn't moving. I plan on putting an OEM pin back in. Got a feeling that I am going to have to remove the whole shaft to work on it. Just can't get a good swing in there with the BFH.

Randy
 
Randy, in that location a bolt is OK to use as the softer coupler on the engine takes the abuse. Usually the problem is that the solid dowel pin will not stay in place and many use a hose clamp to hold them in.
 
Kraig i was thinking that putting a flex coupler on both ends of my drive shaft in my 129 loader .do you think this would be a worth doing to add strength?? just wondering. thanks Don T
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Got the old 109 started today after sitting for prob 8 years. Goes forward but no reverse its hydro any tips. Thanks
 
Don, David Kirk has done that, here's the info for doing it to a narrow frame, might be the same parts for a wide frame.
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I plan on some day doing this to my #1 125, that is is/when I ever get around to refurbishing it.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Driveshaft coupler mod:

748-3001 Arm, Coupling

722-3000 Disc

703-0204 Flange, Drive Shaft

715-3000 1/4" x 1 3/8" Spirol pin<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

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Brian, sounds like a stuck relief valve in the hydro. I believe you can swap them side to side and see if the problem moves from the reverse to the forward direction. Might be a good idea to wait for a second opinion though.
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I'm looking at some flexible coupling discs (IH-376257-R3) One looks to be made of rubber and the others look to be made of layers of cloth material. Either one better that the other?
 
As usual, 2 steps forward and one step back with the 129. I was able to easily swap the brake interlock spring lever off the 1650, and also resolved what I perceived as the engine laboring too hard, despite fiddling with the carburetor. Turned out to be the breaker points needed a little tweaking. Loosened the points cover, started the engine, let it warm up and pushed engine speed control all the way up with the PTO running the mower. Pried the points open just a hair, and I heard the sweet sound of the throttle backing off just a bit, and repeated it until I found the sweet spot. Took her out on the lawn and she was more than holding her own, even in the heavy stuff.

Took a step back when the original seat pan started to crack, I tend to be a little rough on seats. I had a $75 Amazon Gift Certificate, so I took a flier to see if I could spend it on a new seat, and found a decent high back replacement seat for about $71, including shipping. Hopefully it will be here next week.
 
Well thanks Kraig for that info, I had a great day here(rained all day)but on the bright side I found a pin hole in the float of my 107 and changed out the float for a floating one and that 10 K runs great now. I also did some more on the 129, Have to spray some white paint soon to finish this. I need the loader. I got an email from a friend and have to share this.I`am prob going to get h$LL for this but well i must.
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i think this guy is in need of a truck or at least a trailer. Later and thanks Kraig Don T
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I new I could pick up cubs and haul them home with my wifes KIA............Im headed east!!!
 
question on cutting with my 128, I have about 330 feet of ditch i cut at about a 45 degrre angle. Am i huting my kohler and when i cut should i go in a direction so the dip stick is on the high side or doesn't it matter.
 

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