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Archive through June 03, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Chris-
Use that 1100 as a garden tractor as you want, but don't expect too much life out of the transaxle. Cast iron housings don't mean a whole lot, it's usually just an advertising point, it's the gears inside that are the problem. The 1100 was the product offered after the 800 was discontinued, other than having some common parts with a Cub Cadet Quiet Line tractor, they were little more than a large version of the Cadet line.
 
Don't want to start the "Great Oil Debate" again, but how do you guys feel about using MOBIL 1 Syn. in smokers?

Wyatt,
Any luck on the plow pix?

Just 'cause "Charlie" was caught "creaping" around, doesn't mean you goyya kill him.

(Message edited by thoffman on June 05, 2004)

(Message edited by thoffman on June 05, 2004)
 
Tom-
I don't think any of the Mobil1 products carry a diesel (API??) rating, I don't know if they're able to take the soot loading like Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac could.

I sent about 2.5mb of pictures the other night, they're in my "sent" box in Outlook, I'll send again.
 
Sorry Guy's,been plowing and pulling with my 1100 for over a year now.Good tractor.
19282.jpg
 
Is a 3-point even available for the 1100? Folks have said they plow with theirs but I don't think I've seen a plow behind one.
 
Went to a consignment auction today about 75 miles south of house. 4 cubs on the block. 1650, 1450, 169 and 149. Bunch of first time buyers were bidding hard. Did manage to get the 169 and the tiller that was attached. Paid the least and probably got the most.

1650 was pretty decent but a little too much for my liking.

Have too many 1450's and the 149 had three guys that wanted it bad.

Will have to do something about the gold painted rims though. What are the correct tires for the front of the 169 and the 129? Are the 16x6.50x8's the correct ones or are the narrower tires the correct ones? My 129 has narrow wheels and the 169 has the 6.50x8 wheels.

The tiller will probably be a donor as the housing has a couple of rust holes and the tines have been cobbled up. It is nearly complete except for the one belt gurad. Also it was painted red by a previous owner.
 
Hi, can anyone tell me what size belt (how long) is used on a 149 to go around the pto and all the way to the rear? And while I'm at it, how long is the one that drives the mower deck? When we bought the tractor it came with all the attachments (snowthrower, tiller, mower) but no belts. Guess the previous owner only drove it to church on Sundays.

thanks, jim
 
Jim W.
Here's the tiller belt info.
19288.jpg

Number Width Length Fits tiller Fits tractor Type Source Notes

487045R2 7/16 142 Below 400,000 PTO CPE-2 Dimensions by Charlie
549250R1 Above 400,000 PTO CPE-2
487044R1 #1,1A tiller Tine CPE-2
62235C1 #2 tiller Tine CPE-2
549250R1 13/32 143 7/8 1xx PTO Belt Ref Guide
61959C1 7/16 145 1/2 1xxxx PTO Belt Ref Guide Also in CPE-2 for 2A tiller
754-0253 1/2 43 Tine Belt Ref Guide
135553C1 #2B tiller PTO CPE-2
WM63385 21/32 154 5/16 6xx,7xx PTO Belt Ref Guide
WM64852 5/8 162 15/16 newer CC PTO Belt Ref Guide

We need to know what size deck you have to get you the other info.
 
the number on the deck is 422U1113. I'm not sure how mower decks are measured; is it the cutting path (outer tips of the blades) or the outer skin?
 
Jim W,
It's a 42" cut deck.
19290.jpg

They are measured by the cutting path (outer tips of the blades)

(Message edited by cProctor on June 05, 2004)
 
A while back someone posted an articale on 44a decks that have to be straightened due to uneven cutting and was wondering if this was the same problem that I am having . I could not find it , so here goes. After going through all the obvious things like , makeing sure all the adjusters were properly set I then tookthe deck off the tractor and would see if it sits square on level concete with the newly installed iders and it did not. The left rear wheel was free wheeling while the right rear wheel had considerable weight on it.I then set the deack on the front idlers and set the trailing edge of the deck on some two by fours and then started takeing some measurements figuring it that it was sprung . While doing this during some lifting and prying I noticed that the area where the deck has a sharp fold near the grass discharge area is flexing somewhat. This area is right by the blade area near the chute If you pick up the tail end of the deak and drop it on the two by fours, that area flexs quite a bit . If you put a floor jack undr the outer blade spindle and lift it slightley , it would tend to level out This would explain why I cannot get even tension on the rear idler wheels , The right rear one always has more wieght on it. The deck did have some rust on it when I sandblasted it, but nothing serious , Does anyone have a fix idea for this , like welding in somethig to stiffen it up or is the deck ready for the scrap pile Any help would be much appreciated ,thanks, Wayne
 
Wayne W,
Steve B is the local deck leveling expert and will probably chime in, but in the meantime, check the FAQ's above and read up a little. ;-)
 
John-
I stand corrected, I didn't think that the Briggs engine would have the power, or the transmission the guts, to handle a plow.
 
Wyatt,I was surprised myself and am not promoting the 1100 as being better than others.I have found however,that it seems to be better than many give it credit for.Nuff said.
 
John-
I think it has a lot to do is the appearance of common parts with the much maligned Deere 110/112 and 200 series belt-driven, plus some of the early Simplicity and Case tractors. Second strike against it, at least here, is the Briggs engine . . . . hence the "Breakem & Scrapem" nickname. It's a common belief here that the only way a Cub Cadet earns it's Cub name is a cast iron Kohler engine and the Farmall Cub transaxle (and the hydro too). Sorta the same reason lots of folks will say that there's nothing "special" about a 582 Special.
 

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