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Archive through June 03, 2004
- Thread starter kweimann
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kenny you are correct I should have worded my post differently. Also the 147 didn't have the word "Hydrostatic" under the model number, it was located forward of the number, on the hood.
tschweizer
Well-known member
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- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Plus the 782's had high back seats and hubcaps.
As many of you may not know, there's a FAQ page for Cub Cadets in the making that Meo and I kinda brainstormed together on and we would like to have some input from everyone. Soooooooooo.
Click the CLICK HERE THINGY and take a look at the questions and give us some help on the answers. You don't have to answer everyone, just what you know, NO GUESSIN ART!!!!
This is going to be a joint effort for everyone to get involved and we think it might just help the hobby out in the long run. PLUS it might just save the other Cub sites some bandwidth to boot.
Feel free to copy and paste it and email it to me.
CLICK HERE
Click the CLICK HERE THINGY and take a look at the questions and give us some help on the answers. You don't have to answer everyone, just what you know, NO GUESSIN ART!!!!
This is going to be a joint effort for everyone to get involved and we think it might just help the hobby out in the long run. PLUS it might just save the other Cub sites some bandwidth to boot.
Feel free to copy and paste it and email it to me.
CLICK HERE
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Kraig,thanks for the pic of the 147 operated by our old friend from the X-Files again;I wondered what Cigarette Smoking Man was now doing?? I understand the need for belts from other sources too,I just usually keep a spare Cub Cadet belt on hand(since mine only break when Scott Madson is closed on Sat afternoons or Sundays,never when he is open of course)
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- Home of the Plow Special
Travis-
A 682 I once owned had hubcaps...before I took them off..
Not sure if they were standard or not.
A 682 I once owned had hubcaps...before I took them off..
Not sure if they were standard or not.
- Joined
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- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
LOL! Charlie, just got a chance to look at your little list there, looks VERY complete, all the way to the bottom..
R
rmull
Guest
Anybody know the difference between the Kohler choke kits 25 757 20 & 25 757 21? <font size="-2">(besides 1 Art!)</font>
tschweizer
Well-known member
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- Feb 16, 2000
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- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Art, they were standard on a 782, option on a 682, AFAIK.
Thanks for the enamel hardener advice.I have dupont's centari enamel hardener right in my paint cabinet. I guess I will have to wait for the next tractor painting window in my schedule. At least this job will keep the rust at bey.
Now that my local dealer's closed, pretty much all my new parts come from one of the sponsors, and a goodly chunk of my used ones come from yet another, and I understand the need to support 'em, but - when the grass needs to be cut NOW and a belt breaks, I will try to find one locally. I've had good luck with belts (I believe they may be made by MTD) that I've been getting at TSC. They are 1/2" wide as opposed to the recommended 3/8", but so far they have been working well.
Art, my guess is MTD is buried supplying parts for their non-Cub Cadet (read LIGHTWEIGHT) product now that it's peak mowing season. Like most companies, they need extra warm bodies to answer those phones during busy seasons, but are probably too tight to hire 'em. Kinda reminds me of the computer industry, spare no expense gettin' the product out into the field and scream about every penny that's required to support it after it gets there...
Art, my guess is MTD is buried supplying parts for their non-Cub Cadet (read LIGHTWEIGHT) product now that it's peak mowing season. Like most companies, they need extra warm bodies to answer those phones during busy seasons, but are probably too tight to hire 'em. Kinda reminds me of the computer industry, spare no expense gettin' the product out into the field and scream about every penny that's required to support it after it gets there...
M
mkornder
Guest
Cub Cadet 1450 (17 hp Kohler) with a Broken Drive shaft – would appreciate any advice
Greetings and thanks for letting me join your excellent forum. I am hoping you might be able to help me with a broken driveline problem.
I recently purchased a cub cadet 1450. It came with a tiller, snow thrower and deck mower. I am pretty thrilled about using it– it is my first tractor. Unfortunately, when I started to mow the lawn, the drive shaft broke where it is coupled to the hydrostatic. It broke right at the roll pin inside the first coupler (attached to the hydrostatic). This caused the flexible disk to rip apart, and the drive shaft - with the second coupler and disk still attached - banged about and chipped up the coupler still attached to the hydrostatic. This action also dented up the fluid filter but there are no leaks. Needless to say, I thought I ran over a huge object with all the banging and shaking that occurred! But I did not hit anything as far as I can tell. Not sure why it happened. My mover belt also frayed and some threads wrapped around the PTO – I think that is OK.
When I looked underneath, I could see the problem and set to taking things apart. It appears that the drive shaft is custom made. I also noticed that the driveline does not resemble the factory drivelines pictured in this forum, nor a driveline diagram that a Case IH dealer faxed me. My driveline consists of a universal joint coming off the engine – then the drive shaft – then the coupler/flexible disk/coupler – then the hydrostatic. The parts diagram shows a front coupler /flexible disk/coupler -then drive shaft - fan – coupler disk combo – then hydrostatic. I suspect my combination might be different because the 17 hp Kohler series II is not original? and maybe the distance between the engine and hydrostatic required a custom job? Anyway, I think I am now stuck with two choices: do I order original parts and see if they fit? or do I get a new drive shaft made, and just order a new rear coupler and flexible disk? Also, is the small fan that fits on the driveshaft necessary to cool the transmission? Mine had no fan. Could I replace the factory rear coupler-disk combo with another universal joint if I make a new drive shaft? How would I measure the length for a new custom drive shaft?
Any advice would be much appreciated. I have ordered an owner’s and maintenance manuals, but don’t expect them to arrive very soon. I am semi-mechanical if I have help
If I can get a digital camera, I’ll post some pictures. Thanks for reading this longwinded tale!
p.s. One other problem while I am at it – I noticed a narrow rod -approx 8 inches long - hanging down from the “brake shaft” (the shaft that passes through the tractor from left to right, and rotates when you step on the brake, and has the metal piece that pushes a button switch in front of it) . Where should this rod go? Is it part of the brake system? It looks like it might have been attached to a spot near the right side of the hydro - looking forward. I will be better informed when my manuals arrive.
Sincerely,
Mark Kornder – temporarily stuck pushing a lawnmower near Pike Lake, Saskatchewan but really exited about owning a cub cadet!
Cub cadet 1450, model 2 tiller, 44 A mower, snow thrower
Kohler 17 hp series II engine
44A rotory mower
Model 2 Tiller
Single stage snow thrower (not sure which model)
(Message edited by mkornder on June 04, 2004)
Greetings and thanks for letting me join your excellent forum. I am hoping you might be able to help me with a broken driveline problem.
I recently purchased a cub cadet 1450. It came with a tiller, snow thrower and deck mower. I am pretty thrilled about using it– it is my first tractor. Unfortunately, when I started to mow the lawn, the drive shaft broke where it is coupled to the hydrostatic. It broke right at the roll pin inside the first coupler (attached to the hydrostatic). This caused the flexible disk to rip apart, and the drive shaft - with the second coupler and disk still attached - banged about and chipped up the coupler still attached to the hydrostatic. This action also dented up the fluid filter but there are no leaks. Needless to say, I thought I ran over a huge object with all the banging and shaking that occurred! But I did not hit anything as far as I can tell. Not sure why it happened. My mover belt also frayed and some threads wrapped around the PTO – I think that is OK.
When I looked underneath, I could see the problem and set to taking things apart. It appears that the drive shaft is custom made. I also noticed that the driveline does not resemble the factory drivelines pictured in this forum, nor a driveline diagram that a Case IH dealer faxed me. My driveline consists of a universal joint coming off the engine – then the drive shaft – then the coupler/flexible disk/coupler – then the hydrostatic. The parts diagram shows a front coupler /flexible disk/coupler -then drive shaft - fan – coupler disk combo – then hydrostatic. I suspect my combination might be different because the 17 hp Kohler series II is not original? and maybe the distance between the engine and hydrostatic required a custom job? Anyway, I think I am now stuck with two choices: do I order original parts and see if they fit? or do I get a new drive shaft made, and just order a new rear coupler and flexible disk? Also, is the small fan that fits on the driveshaft necessary to cool the transmission? Mine had no fan. Could I replace the factory rear coupler-disk combo with another universal joint if I make a new drive shaft? How would I measure the length for a new custom drive shaft?
Any advice would be much appreciated. I have ordered an owner’s and maintenance manuals, but don’t expect them to arrive very soon. I am semi-mechanical if I have help
p.s. One other problem while I am at it – I noticed a narrow rod -approx 8 inches long - hanging down from the “brake shaft” (the shaft that passes through the tractor from left to right, and rotates when you step on the brake, and has the metal piece that pushes a button switch in front of it) . Where should this rod go? Is it part of the brake system? It looks like it might have been attached to a spot near the right side of the hydro - looking forward. I will be better informed when my manuals arrive.
Sincerely,
Mark Kornder – temporarily stuck pushing a lawnmower near Pike Lake, Saskatchewan but really exited about owning a cub cadet!
Cub cadet 1450, model 2 tiller, 44 A mower, snow thrower
Kohler 17 hp series II engine
44A rotory mower
Model 2 Tiller
Single stage snow thrower (not sure which model)
(Message edited by mkornder on June 04, 2004)
Mark Kornder:
The KT17-II is not the original engine. My guess is that your tractor has reliefs cut into both sides of the frame to accommodate the engine and that there are no side panels on the tractor. Your 1450 originally came with a K321AQS 14 hp single cylinder Kohler engine. Hence the "14" in the model 1450.
The drive shaft would indeed be a "custom job".
Before you start ordering parts, you'd be better served by posting a few pictures of the drive line here on the forum so that we can see exactly what you've got. If the homemade drive shaft was done properly, you may very well be able to get a new fan, the flex disk and coupler to put you back in service. But then, it may require more than that.
You mentioned installing a universal joint on the tranny end of the drive shaft. That is perfectly acceptable. I know of at least a couple of guys who have done this. Long time lurker, Pat Irlbeck has done it for his 782s and a recent member, Dave Kamp, has posted pics here on the forum of his universal joint installation.
The fan is a necessary part of the drive line and its function is to cool the hydrostatic pump. Make sure you install one.
Regarding the brakes, the little arm should attach to a vertical cast arm that pivots low on the front of the tranny housing. This arm either actuates a plunger in the tranny housing that operates the internal brake OR it pulls a couple of other arms forward that pulls the actuator rods to the disk brakes mounted on each wheel.
Good luck. And please give us some pics with which to work.
Keith
The KT17-II is not the original engine. My guess is that your tractor has reliefs cut into both sides of the frame to accommodate the engine and that there are no side panels on the tractor. Your 1450 originally came with a K321AQS 14 hp single cylinder Kohler engine. Hence the "14" in the model 1450.
The drive shaft would indeed be a "custom job".
Before you start ordering parts, you'd be better served by posting a few pictures of the drive line here on the forum so that we can see exactly what you've got. If the homemade drive shaft was done properly, you may very well be able to get a new fan, the flex disk and coupler to put you back in service. But then, it may require more than that.
You mentioned installing a universal joint on the tranny end of the drive shaft. That is perfectly acceptable. I know of at least a couple of guys who have done this. Long time lurker, Pat Irlbeck has done it for his 782s and a recent member, Dave Kamp, has posted pics here on the forum of his universal joint installation.
The fan is a necessary part of the drive line and its function is to cool the hydrostatic pump. Make sure you install one.
Regarding the brakes, the little arm should attach to a vertical cast arm that pivots low on the front of the tranny housing. This arm either actuates a plunger in the tranny housing that operates the internal brake OR it pulls a couple of other arms forward that pulls the actuator rods to the disk brakes mounted on each wheel.
Good luck. And please give us some pics with which to work.
Keith
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Keith-
I took the tranny out of the 149 because the hydro (cork) gasket was leaking, it had a broken brake rod lever, and it was just generally messy and I wanted to clean it up "the right way". For the extra time it took to remove the tranny, it will be nice to do all of these tasks with everything right there in front of me.
Guess you could say that I'm going to be giving it a "Christianson" as that's how Richard does it. Think I'll even try to locate some Neopreme too!
I took the tranny out of the 149 because the hydro (cork) gasket was leaking, it had a broken brake rod lever, and it was just generally messy and I wanted to clean it up "the right way". For the extra time it took to remove the tranny, it will be nice to do all of these tasks with everything right there in front of me.
Guess you could say that I'm going to be giving it a "Christianson" as that's how Richard does it. Think I'll even try to locate some Neopreme too!
Fred, I assume by "carriage" you are referring to the mower deck subframe. The mower deck and subframe should work on either of the tractors you mention.
I am still the proud owner of a Cub 1100. It is beautifull to look at, but has a serious idle problem. It's idle speed is erratic and moving the throttle does nothing to adjust it. I have had the carb off and it looks ok, but leaks a little. Can I just buy a new carb for $200 or do I have a governor problem, too? I want my Cub to pull thru, and I'm losing sleep over it. Help! Thanks!!
Mark, have you rebuilt the carb on your 1100's B&S engine? I would think a rebuild and a good cleaning would be the best place to start.
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