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Archive through July 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Nice toys Charlie and I guarentee if I shut the fuel tank off I would forget it guys!
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!

Did all you mentioned Roland: except the filter. Washed and cleaned tank, blew it out with air, cleaned shut off valve and the screen, installed a new har har harrr braided steel gas line. Had left over from my 59 P/U project looks good.

Thinking I really needed to install an inline filter try that next.

All specs are met on the carb runs like a fast movin kitten. I just think this carb is posessed!
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!

Pops
 
Pops...

if the filter doesn't do it, sometimes the seat rubber gets twisted upon installation. Try removing it and coating it w/ vaseliine when putting it back in. Seat it with the needle prior to reassembling the carb... HTH...
 
Ben,
I have noticed that the carb bowl can get pushed in on the bottom. I have needed to tweak the bowls in the past. I take off the bowl and place it on a flat board cup side up, bolt hole side down. Then I use a flat wooded dowel and tap the bottom of the bowl. This will cause the the bowl lip to seat or push harder on the seal when reinstalled.

Hope this makes sense.
 
hello this is my first cub and my first post anyone now how the ignition coil conects to the wiring and how much a new coil is for a cub 122
 
Pops
Carb leaks are usually either the needle valve not sealing or the carb bowl leaking. After it has sat for a time run your finger around the top of the carb bowl and see if it is wet. If wet around the top your needle valve is not seating, due to adjustment, bad float, or bad needle valve, or junk in the needle valve.

If the carb bowl is dry at the top, run you finger around the bottom. If wet here the gasket on the bottom screw is bad or I have seen the aluminum carb bowls with a small pin hole due to water rusting them, or sometimes a small hairline crack.

Finding a gas leak is like finding a hydraulic leak, clean and check, clean and check. Sometimes your eyes don't see what a clean towel will show, or you can feel with your finger.
 
<font size="+2">FALL PLOW DAY - STEVE BLUNIER FARM - ROANOKE, IL</font>

<font size="+2">Sat. October 21st</font>

Rain Date Sat. October 28th

We are going to have Friday night plowing (RSVP Please) at a field about 1/4 mile away (convoy down, plow for about an hour, convoy back).

Other details are similar to the past as far as Saturday's main event is concerned.

All are welcome!!!!
 
Got Artie taken apart, painted and put back together. Other then a few problems everything went pretty smoothly. We'll be at Thresherman Park in Boonville, IN this weekend if anyone is in the vicinity. Hopefully it won't be too hot and the rain won't be a problem.

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Bryan Baker gave me some nice looking foot treads for it. Worked out well.

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Can someone give me a little carb/governor 101 tutoring?

Q1: If my max engine speed is reduced when I engage the mower, does this signal I need a governor adjustment?

Q2: Just HOW can the max no-load speed be adjusted at the governor when the throttle plate is wide open? When I move the throttle lever to full FAST, the throttle plate is wide open, so I don't know how the max speed adjustment can take place beyond this; the manual shows an adjustment to a high-speed stop, but this looks like an adjustment to the cable travel, and like I said, my throttle plate is already wide open.

I've gone thru most everything on my 1450, and a few weeks back the governor spring broke at the governor arm end (actually worn thru to failure!). That's one stiff spring material, and to get it back running I bent the remaining end back into a "hook" and hooked it back to the governor arm.

Concerned that the governor adjustment may be out, I did it per the FAQ instructions and have had no problems with surging or speed change as I operate the tractor, just a PERCIEVED drop in engine speed when I engage the mower.

But my MAXIMUM no-load speed seems to be slow, and when I engage the mower, the max rpm seems to be significantly less than the no-load speed. It just SOUNDS like it's revving too slow.

I checked with a tach, and it's VERY hard to read with the needle bouncing all over the place. I'll try to rig better jumpers for the tach to get a better reading, but my main question is WHAT to adjust to get a DIFFERENT max no-load speed.

Thanks!
 
TedB, your throttle stop is a screw,its under where the throttle and choke cable clamp to the control bracket on the flywheel shroud. back this screw out and lock with the nut, you may have to loosen the throttle cable and readjust to put more tension on the governor spring= more rpm's.
 
Ted B. -

So now your governor spring is shorter? No wonder you're having problems...

Get the right spring on there first - if you don't, then what's in the manuals doesn't mean a dang thing. Everything you need to know/adjust is in the Kohler engine manual. It's a free download, so there's no excuse.
 
Thanks guys, but I have already downloaded the Kohler manual and the FAQ section on governor adjustment, and I didn't understand how moving the throttle stop when the throttle plate is already wide open accomplishes anything.

I think Anthony confirmed my suspicion; more tension = more speed, although I still don't understand HOW. I don't believe my repaired spring is a detriment YET, because all those holes in the governor arm and throttle arm allow for re-positioning to get the tension right, unless it's just too short. I'll tighten up the spring and try to re-rig my tach and see if I'm in the ballpark.

Thanks!
 
I have been working the CCs pretty hard lately...making them earn their keep
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My wife wanted a walkway along the East side of the house from the driveway to the walk through gate to the back yard.

So out came the 1450 w/#2 tiller, and the 1250....
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The hard clay was a real treat.......

While dumping the 5th load of that clay, the tounge on the TSC cart (freebie) decided to tie itself in a pretzel...LOL.. So we had to take it off, straighten and reinforce it before we could continue the excavating!


After the 'dirt work' was done for the walkway, we decided to get going on the area of our fire ring. Since the get togethers with our friends usually end up around a fire, and everyone is enjoying a few beers...we though it might be wise to level the seating area...LOL!

We had to 'carve' out some of the hill leading down to the ditch, and move that dirt over to the 'low' side.

Here are some pics of the 1450, and the 1712 w/54" power angle blade.

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the cart is loaded with rocks from our back field...ready to be mortared in for the fire ring...and some 'pre burnt' wood from this spring when we had a family cook out.

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Dirt is no match for this team

The 1712 is pretty cool, but I love the Quietlines with full sets of AGs
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(Message edited by Bcook on July 25, 2006)
 
TedB, if you reinstalled the spring in the original hole, you probably changed the sensitivity, you might try moving the spring up one hole to increase it if what i said before dont work.if you get a new spring reinstall in the original hole and recheck top no load speed.
the best way to understand governors, it's like the cruise control on an auto, when a load is applied the engine slows down, thus the gov. gear flyweights go in(governor spring pulls governor arm and shaft, opens the throttle plate more, more fuel/air mixture to over come the load).
when it over comes the load, the engine speeds up and the flyweights push on the crossshaft, against the governor spring, and you have a governed speed. hope i didnt confuse ya.
 
Pual, thats a nice looking unit, alot of hours to build i bet, but well worth it
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. can you put a deck on it? that be sweet to mow with
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