Archive through July 22, 2005

[mgonitzke]

Well I would except it ain't clean. What makes me suspicious is the fact that the PO bought the thing for the Magnum 18 engine that was in it (before I bought it) and put this in its place. The PO said the driveshaft never was connected when he got it and this thing has a NAPA hydraulic filter and has evidence of a massive leak in the past. Also, the release valves, while not stuck, don't release, so I just want to do my homework before I take apart my perfectly good 1810 and have it be off duty for a long period of time in the case that other parts need to be fixed/changed.

 

[tturner]

I see completely

 

[rbedell]

Matt G:

If you have two KT-17 Series I motors, then see if you can make one good one. I have a friend of mine that kas a 682 w/a Series I and never has had a problem.

Sorry if I misunderstood your situation.

 

[deschmidt]

Ignition Coil keeps burning out!
On my fourth coil already in four months. 1650 (k341) - replaced spark plug, wire, condenser, breaker points - all seem to work fine. Replaced and checked all grounds - seem fine. Tested the regulator - stator is putting out 23 volts at idle and 27/28 at high idle - reg is putting out 14.3 at high idle. Battery is one year old. Coil gets freakin hot to the touch. Have tried the OE kohler coil, the standard 12v internal resistor coil that TSC sells, but it seems that each coil has about 10 hours of life on it before I have to replace it... Help would be appreciated...

Dave

 

[sblunier]

Matt,

The hyd. lift probably works, and if it doesn't you can swap some parts around on the hydro itself to fix some of the "abused hydro" problems.

Why not chuck the input shaft into a heavy electric drill and spin the hydro over like that???? Ken W., myself, and others have used this method before on hyd. components. (you might need to make an adapter to reduce the driveshaft to 1/2", but probably easier than fighting the engine).

SB

 

[bperry]

My 106 quit moving. I replaced the clutch disc and now it will move some but it is not correct. I noticed that the input shaft to the differential was spinning but the tractor was not moving. I am guessing the pins could be sheared on the coupling going on to the pinion or maybe the pinion bearings are bad. Any one had a similiar experience where there was a problem in the differential itself.

Bill Perry

 

[bmoore]

Dave S,
The wires are hooked up to the coil as illustrated in Roland B's post near the bottom of this page (points and condenser wired to negative side of coil with clean, bright connections), right?

 

[deschmidt]

Bruce, all is connected as it should. Had my battery tested an hour ago, and it is fine. However, I took more measurements on the voltage regulator, and now it is pushing out 15.2 volts...Had the tractor running this morning for about 10 minutes with a good battery, no load and it was still pushing out 15.2 or a little less. Service manual says to replace rectifier/reg if more than 14.6v. Make sense? Does a couple of volts really make a difference on the heat generated by the coil? I will replace the reg for starters...

thanks

Dave

 

[rchristensen]

Dave Schmidt
It sounds exactly like you are getting coils without the resistor but as many Cubs as you have had I know you know the difference.

Have you checked the ground of the bolt that the condensor mounts on? That screw is screwed into the cylinder head for a ground and sometimes they build up a resistance. I usually wipe them a few times whenever I am replacing the condensor or coil. I don't know if that would cause the problem but you might try it.

Another thing you might try is buy a external resistor and connect it in line and see if the tractor will start and if the coil still gets hot.

I did buy a coil from a auto parts store once that was supposed to have the internal resistor but it didn't. Since then I have bought mine from Madsons.

Under EDIT
Was typing too slow, see your last post and it sounds like you found your problem.

(Message edited by RChristensen on July 24, 2005)

 

[deschmidt]

1650 pedestal internals...Besides buying a service manual for the chassis and frame, does anyone have any pictures how the insides of the 1650 pedestal should look? Mine is a mess.

tx

Dave

 

[deschmidt]

Hey Richard, even added a new ground wire from that condenser mounting bolt to the freshly cleaned chassis ground bolt! I am on the hunch that the regulator might be biffed...

tx

dave

 

[rchristensen]

Dave S.
You looking for something like this?

or this?

 

[mgonitzke]

Roland B.-

No problem.

I didn't really explain the situation.

Steve B.-

Interesting, I'll have to try that.

 

[deschmidt]

Richard, a picture truly says a thousand words. Those are exactly what I am looking for. Now that I know what mine is supposed to look like, I am going to go cry...

Looks like I have some work to do... My biggest problem seems to be with the steering column - seems to be held in place with an old coke can or something really structural like that...Electrics aren't much better...

thanks again
Dave

 

[rbedell]

Dave S:

Here is the Check Out Procedure for the QL Charging System:

This and additional information is available from the Kohler Service Manual TP-2379A on page 8.13 to 8.14.

14.7VDC is the MAXIMUM output voltage permitted for safe charging.



(Message edited by rbedell on July 24, 2005)

 

[rchristensen]

Dave
This is what it looked like when I started.

 

[bmoore]

Dave S,
I just got back. I was just checking with you to see if the connections were correct, and you verified that they were. Richard C asked some of the same questions I was going to ask next concerning some often overlooked grounds. Sounds like your problem is from overcharging after your VR findings. E / I x R doesn't change, and electrical resistance causes heat. That's why toasters and space heaters work. Also why they start fires when something is just a little out of whack. You're basically trying to make a DC toaster out of your coil. I wouldn't bother trying to patent it, though. It would probably only work on hot dog buns.
The ten-hour run time per coil probably kept your battery from boiling completely dry. Your lights should have been bright, however.

 

[dsnyderwine]

Drive pin being thrown every two seconds. The drive pin broke two years ago. I replaced it and it held in just fine. I noticed that it was loose on one side but it engaged and worked fine. This year the pin was thrown out and now I have to use a hose clamp to keep it in for more than a few seconds. The shaft that holds the pin seems to move siedways in the drive unit from the engine. Do I need to change the part that is attached to the engine that the pin engages or what else can I do to make the pin stay in?

 

[sblunier]

David,

Mine has been running witha SS hose clamp for 4 years......

 

[bmcmeen]

And that's what I think I'm gonna do with the 107 for the time being, too. Put the right pin in and put a hose clamp around it. Maybe Wednesday when it's a couple dozen degrees cooler out