Archive through July 20, 2009

[mgonitzke]

I got the yellow touched up on the 100... Final assembly tomorrow...

I'm still plating bolts so I can reassemble the S/G and put the motor in. The wiring harness is 90% done. The PTO clutch is assembled. I'll probably prime the plow tomorrow morning and shoot the black tomorrow night.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wow, another bunch of new guys,

WELCOME!

Matt, very nice, I love the look of fresh yellow paint in the morning.

Don B., fenders were an option on the Original, adding them is fine. Same goes for head lights, the rear lift hitch, seat pad, wheel weights and so on. The seals and gaskets should all be available, check with the sponsors. The Original uses a slightly different style steering box, many of the tips in the FAQ will still apply. The "easy steer", thrust bearing/lock nut, modification will not work on an Original as the side plate bolt is a larger size. The decals on an Original are fairly simple compared to the other Cub Cadet models, the hood has a decal on each side, the dash has one, the fuel tank has a "7HP" decal on each side, the oil bath air filter has one and there should be a small round decal for the right side of the frame to indicate where to grease the clutch release collar. I do not know of a complete set that includes all of these, but they are readily available as separate decals.

 

[dblake]

Another Q; this one on a 1200; How tight do I tighten the rag joint attatching bolts?? Squash the snot out of it? Squash it a little and double-nut? Somewhere in between? I'm surprised this thing don't either have sleeves in the holes or else shouldered bolts.
I already have to "eat" $200 worth of driveline parts on this machine (please do not ask) including the 1st rag joint I put on.
But add the shaft (I bought a stainless one for it; that's the one I gotta eat; this time the guy sent me a "stress proof" one) and a flex coupling to that list.
So I got a solid coupler and stainless motor mounts in place of the original rubber ones in the interest of preventing a repeat.

 

[rpalmer]

Don Blake,
and stainless motor mounts in place of the original rubber ones in the interest of preventing a repeat.

Please post your thoughts feelings ect on the solid mounts. Many people ask about this. I for one am curious.
Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, the 4 nuts that attach the flexible disc "rag joint" should be lock nuts, not the "nyloc" style but the style that have indents on them to slightly deform them so that they hold tight.

 

[dwshaffer]

Porter F. Odenbach

not understanding what you mean about the steering wheel could you send me a picture of it thanks maybe that will help

 

[rneubauer]

Bought a like new hardly used tiller for my tractor, and I know I really should get a manual for it, can somebody please post some pics of how it hoooks up? Also has anyone found any sources for the long belt from the engine to the 90 degree gearbox?

 

[wshytle]

Hi Guys, I need to know if lock washers are used on the engine mounting bolts of a 128. I think I remember them to be without the washers but want to be sure. Thanks to all

 

[klejeune]

I think they may be without lock washers. Funny how IH did that. I don't know how "original" you're wanting to be, but if I were building a worker, I'd put lock washers on there.

 

[rrschmitt]

Don B,

The 4 bolts common to the rag joint/couplers should be very snug. I tighten them with a 3/8" ratchet drive until the nut is engaging the coupler and rag coupler and I start to feel a little resistance, then give it about a another 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Overtightening the bolts can cause the washers common to the rag coupler to start cutting into the rubber. As Kraig mentioned, the nuts should be the self-locking kind with indents to give them a slight oval shape. I don't recall seeing any torque requirement on them since the nuts are self-locking.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Keith. I think I'm going to agree and use the washers. It's going to be a worker.

I have one more question...Do I have to re-polarize the S/G since everything was disconnected? Thanks again to all!

 

[lhinds]

Does anyone have a picture of a factory larger batter box? What model cub cadets came with the larger box. Thanks.
Luther Hinds

 

[klejeune]

Wayne,
We just went through a long discussion about re-polarizing S/G. Go back a couple of pages and read up. You only have to polarize a generator. The S/G or "motor generator" used on Cub Cadets will automatically polarize when you hit the starter switch and send power to spin the motor.

Luther,
I believe only the 70/100's had the big battery box for a short time. Maybe only 100's too. I've read about it, but can't remember for sure.

 

[klejeune]

Luther, I'm sorry did you want this pic?

If you meant battery box.

I think Matt G's 100 at the bottom of this page is a large battery box. Were the LP heads and large battery box connected?

 

[pbell]

Keith,
No, the large battery box and LP head were not connected, the larger battery box is also found on the early 70's. Supposedly it was thought the 10 hp engine in the 100 would require a larger battery, and since the 70/100 used the same frame they both had the bigger battery box until both went to the smaller battery and battery box.

 

[rpalmer]

Don T.,

Well I got it. As you can see it wasn't brass.

This is from my #2 100. While I had it uncovered I went ahead and pulled the head. I finally found one that was just carbon. Not that rock hard orange yellow stuff. Everything looked really good. Cylinder wall, piston fit, valves and their seats. I took the pad I wrote the valve clearances on and put it to the head like a straight edge. Really warped. I don't think milling will save it. BTW the intake was @ .007 and the exhaust was @ .014. So I set them to .008 and .018. I was thinking of maybe putting a hydraulic lift on it but I see it has never had one so I'm not going to drill the holes to put one on it. Thanks for the tips on removing the broken key. - Peace -

 

[sstanton]

I tried to get the 1650 to run today, no luck. It cranks just fine after I put in a new battery. The problem I found is that gas is pouring badly from the carburator, and I mean badly! Could the float need to be adjusted? Here we are again with me not being a very good carb guy! I also noticed that while cranking it over it crept forward little by little and it's in nuetral. Grandad said the hydro had to be adjusted. This is my first hydro so I'm totally clueless!! I guess it's as good as any of a time to learn all about them!

 

[mmorrison]

i am wondering when to when the 106 was built

 

[dtanner]

Scott Stanton I just had a float go south last week. Take it out a shake it to see that it has a hole and fuel is keeping it from floating.

I think you can find hydro adjustment in the faQ above. I do have to get a few parts for my 129. the bolts that hold the S/G on need a new thread installed. Did have the bracket installed and was installing it today when the bad thread was discovered. Have a great Cub Day all .Later Don T

 

[sstanton]

The 106 was built between 1969 and 71, I think. I have a 106 that was built in 1970