• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through July 20, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Scott S.-

I have learned in this hobby to just automatically remove and rebuild the carb on any non-running tractor I get. Most of the time, it needs it anyway.

Keith-

My 100 has the small battery box.
 
Wayne...Lots of talk about the S/G topic the last few weeks...no

Matt...coming along nicely, the more I look at your progress the more I want to get to mine
drool.gif
 
Richard--- the headswill take a -LOT-. of milling/sanding. I am running a 7*hp head that has no raised gasket serface left. Better compression and it seals now. Valves just barly clear, they just bump the head WITHOUT the gasket.Did all the sanding with a piece of flat auto glass and a sheet of black wet or dry 120 grit sandpaper. Use water and about a half hour of time, you can make it flat again!!!
 
Mike Naglich

On your 1450 oil burning issue, try a good 30 wt oil first (straight 30 weight, not the multi viscosity) I have a couple lawn engines that burns oil, or uses oil if using a multi viscosity oil such as 20w-50, 10w-30 etc, but no consumption when using the straight weight oils. I also use either Delo 400 HD 30, or Shell Rotella HD 30, both of these are outstanding oils, and will hold up to the hard use of the air cooled lawn engines, cost is around $13 a gallon. By the way one of the motors that consumed oil was a new Craftsman DYT 4000 with a B&S 24 hp Intek. I "broke it in" went to a synthetic oil Mobil 1 even, and one of the valves/push rods gummed up, and froze up, I tore it apart cleaned the gum up, buffer the push rod, and lapped the valve in best I could. It even bent the aluminum pushrod (If I remember correctly it has a steel pushrod for exhaust, aluminum for intake) I was in a hurry, not sure what all else it may have done, so I just rolled the pushrod back out, have way indicated it after straightening it out, and after that I have used a good quality HD 30 oil with never any more problems, and I have inspected it after this. Long winded here, I will finish this up on this last note, I have a surplus to me Titanium 6AL-4v that I plan to make some intake pushrods out of on my next tear down, head cleaning, those should be high end stuff for a DYT 4000 !!! Even with the B&S 24 horsey.
 
OK Guys....Once again, I have been reassembling a 128 today as you might have guessed. The quick hitch that secures the mule drive was bent so I removed it. The springs fell out from one side and were sort of jammed in the other. I tried to see how it went but had no luck. I have searched the FAQs and the PDF for this tractor and can't find anything about these springs. Is there a schematic of this anywhere? The springs do not look complicated but they aren't self-explanitory either. Help and thanks to any and all.
 
Here is a pic of the Kohler K321 out of my 1450, I will get some better pics with my camera tomorrow. Notice the missing side of piston/gap beside the valves.

162919.jpg
 
Jerry Bliler,

Thanks for giving me hope. I'm going to give it a shot. I don't have any flat auto glass but I might have something around here that is flat and will stay that way. Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens wit it.
 
Richard Palmer

You should be able to pick up a piece of glass from your local glass shop if you have one close by, price would be around $10-$20 depending on size. A good size would be 2' square, but ask they may have some scrap around a bit smaller that would work great, tempered glass/safety glass would be great. On finding something flat it can be a challenge, a surface plat=$$ cha ching, just be careful choosing something flat, you might use google to come up with some ideas.. key words would be surface plate, lap, flat , etc etc
 
Jerry B.,
I'll bet that 7HP really POPS now!

How much compression do you think it's running since you milled/sanded the head?

Do you have to run premium gas in it now?

Does it get overly hot now with the higher compression?

Ryan Wilke
beerchug.gif
 
Matt's 100 is really takin shape, I'm thinkin he's buyin high dollar paint from the money he's saving from all the inexpensive beverages he's buyin!!!!
 
<font size="+2">Sally got a new pair of jeans!</font>

I finally got my "Parts and Accessories" padded seat for the 100 back from the upholstry shop....

162934.jpg


162935.jpg


162936.jpg


162937.jpg


For those of you who don't know, this seat was an "option" you could purchase out of the "Parts and Accessories" booklets.

Here's a shot of it from the 70/100 brochure...

162938.jpg


It was the final piece to my "FULLY optioned out" 100.
happy.gif
happy.gif


Matt-
Your 100 is looking GREAT!
 
Just got in from the garage...100 should run tomorrow, barring any unforseen delays. Sorry, I'm too tired for pics...
 
Thanks guys. I just bought a 104 with a extended battery box. Probally is homemade. Pictures later.
 
This looks like it'll work. I could not find my 120 or 220 so I grabbed my emery paper. I "found" a piece of glass that I think at one time was on a stereo cabinet.

This is not the head that I took off yesterday. I set it back in place with a couple of bolts to keep the cylinder protected. It's sprinkling rain and I'm too lazy to uncover the tractor just to get the head. This is one I could get my hands on. I'll do the other one on a sunny day.

162953.jpg


You can see with just a few passes that this head is warped.
 
Art, You forgot your fender reflectors! Looks awesome just the same
greenthumb.gif

How long did it take you to get all of these options on the tractor?
 
I've recently resurrected a nice 100. It runs great,mostly. It'll run, then stall and die like it's out of gas. I can pull the bowl off the carb, blow it out w/ carb cleaner and get it running again for a short while. The fuel line and filter are brand new. I know it sounds like trash from the tank, but the filter isn't showing any trash,yet.
I suppose my questions are these: could something other than trash in the needle/seat cause this? Float appears to be in good shape. Is there an at home, effective(read as cheap) way to thoroughly clean out a gas tank? I need to get this straightened out before the Rocky Mountain IH Rendevous(RMIHR) next weekend and any fresh insight would be great. Ian
 
Art, that seat looks great!!! You should post a before photo.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top