Archive through July 10, 2009

[mgonitzke]

Well, I thought I posted this earlier...


How long is the throttle cable on a 100? I need to cut a new cable for my control lever.

 

[rpalmer]

frank snerd,

Wouldn't it be easier to just remove the fuel filter and see what happens?

 

[bnolte]

Regarding the gas tank saddle on my 102, I remember vaguely some type of padding between the saddle and the gas tank, but I can't find any remnants around the garage. I think it was some type of rubberized fabric, but I'm not sure. It's a small detail, but if there's supposed to be something there, I'll make new ones out of some of that polyester reinforced neoprene I mentioned earlier.

Matt,
I'd use the old cable housing for a guide if it is available, if in doubt cut it a little longer than you think you'll need, if you make a mistake its much better than cutting it too short. I tend to hand fit these kind of cables, I take the inner wire out, then route the housing the way it should be routed and trim it a bit at a time until it forms a nice smooth arc, without bunching up or sticking out some place it shouldn't. Be sure to leave a little bit of slack to do adjustments once everything's in place. Once the housing is in, I'll cut the inner wire, again leaving it a couple of inches longer than I think it should be, then only cutting it to final length after doing a trial fit.

 

[podenbach]

Bruce I think it is lantern wick. I changed mine with some cut up pieces of tie down straps and spray glued them to the saddle when the originals disappeared. You can get it at a hardware store or check with sponsors.

 

[lchockensmith]

Bruce come to lancaster pa and visit one of our many amish hardware stores they have all types of lantern wicks,all shapes and sizes i even used it under the hood on the "O" it helps keep the rattles quiet....lch

 

[jbminnick]

Frank, I'm new here so take this just as a thought. I have a next door nieghbor,who's machine does kind of the same thing. I worked on it for days. For what ever reason,I took the fuel filter out. The gas was dripping into a catch can.Then it just quit running. There was gas still in the tank. Then it started running again. Then it stopped. When I loosened the gas cap all the gas ran out of the tank. Problem was the pluged vent whole in the gas cap. It could be your problem.
John

 

[tteague]

personaly frank, I think it is in the govorner. I would recheck to see if the spring is in the right holes.my 147 with k321 14 horse has the spring set at the top hole on the throttle cable side and the third hole from the bottom on the govorner arm. The engine running up and down and backfiring sounds to me like a simple governor problem. make sure the spring is in the right holes.

 

[sstanton]

Got the K 85% back together, waiting on rings that were supposed to be in the kit but somehow didnt make there! Once I get them then I will have to put the piston in and rebuild the carb so I can see if it will run! Got all the dots and raised bumps all lined up so now I just wait. Spent the day farting around with the washer that kicked the bucket so not much Cub time today.

 

[cmccall]

I have way to many questions, I have been reading this forum for awhile now soaking up the knowledge. My first question, there is a picture Donald Tanner posted with what looks to be 5 lug front wheels, I have also seen pictures in the past where the front spindle were replaced with 5 lug casters (caster may not be the correct name) for the wheels, but where do you get the wheels to fit the 5 lug caster ?

I have a 1450 I'm currently working on, still have a lot to do to it, however I have fixed the drive shaft that was shot, rusted, and pitted, new rag joints, fan etc. Working on electrical now waiting on a ignition switch. I will post a pic of the drive shaft in a separate post.

 

[cmccall]

I have read so many informative post here, and also other forums, and websites. It has helped an enormous amount with working on my cub 1450, the driveshaft was pitted, rusted, and front rag joint was shot. I still have to order some spirol pins for it, I plan to go with the stainless pins as I despise rust, and went to great trouble to keep the shaft from rusting again.

I used stainless bearing shaft, 5/8" diameter, made it just a little longer than the old one. I radiused both ends of the shaft so the parts would slide on easier, I used a ball nose end mill on my lathe to cut the convex radius for the ball to center on the transmission/pump shaft. I made a few mistakes on the first shaft, I used a hardened shaft, not just surface but through, I melted a ceramic insert on it, as well it was metric so I just used the 5/8" shaft on this one pictured, I also made a mistake one one of the holes for spirol pin, next time I measured between motor and transmission, and left a little bit of space for heat, space etc.