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Archive through July 07, 2006
- Thread starter nbartee
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
David D,
It's the same length as the rest of your tractors that are listed in your profile. ;-P
3/8 X 31 11/16
It's the same length as the rest of your tractors that are listed in your profile. ;-P
3/8 X 31 11/16
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie. THAT is waaay cool. Thank You!!!
Hey guys,
Wes H sent that to me knowing I'd post it!
Wes H sent that to me knowing I'd post it!
I was reading the imfo on the throttle shafts. I use a fivesixtenth steel gas line. After removeing the shaft,I use a pin to line the carb. hole up on the drill press. Than remove pin ,put the bit in and drill the top hole out. I than install the steel bushing works great.
jhillegass
Well-known member
I have a question about my 12 HP Kohler, on a 129. Beginning this spring, for no reason I can think of, when I start running the engine at full throttle, the governor won't hold full speed. It modulates down to about half then back to full speed, making the cycle in about two seconds. After running this way for a couple minutes, it clears up and the engine runs very smoothly while I mow about a half acre of yard.
Lately, if I cut back to idle for a minute or longer, when I go back to full speed, it runs through this again, but for a half minute or so, no longer.
I first thought it was missing and changed the points, but then realized it is the governor.
As far as I can tell, nothing has changed in the throttle linkage or governor spring.
Any ideas on a fix.
TIA
Lately, if I cut back to idle for a minute or longer, when I go back to full speed, it runs through this again, but for a half minute or so, no longer.
I first thought it was missing and changed the points, but then realized it is the governor.
As far as I can tell, nothing has changed in the throttle linkage or governor spring.
Any ideas on a fix.
TIA
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Charlie, Sometimes that urban legend is told with a Marine. Whats wrong with sometimes using an Air Force guy??? We got in our share of troubles.
Jerry H, first check your carb settings if you havent done so yet. the governor spring may be getting weak. after checking carb adjustments, try moving the governor spring down one hole on the governor arm, this will take some of the sensetivity out of the governor(puts more tension on the spring).
Richard C.
Cause the Air Force wouldn't use swear words in the class romm ya know!
Cause the Air Force wouldn't use swear words in the class romm ya know!
Greetings,
As is typical, I come with questions, rather than solutions...as I am no expert. Flavor of the day is battery not charging. On my model 127 Cub, this is going to be due to voltage regulator or starter/generator. Battery is known good - load tested yesterday.
I did a search on the forum, as I was certain that this is something previously covered. Best stuff I found that pertained most to me was in the archived thread https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/forum/board-auth.cgi?file=/106/27681.html .
Specific post by Terry Busch (Tcbusch) on Tuesday, April 26, 2005 - 06:47 pm indicates a shorting of A terninal to Battery. When I do this with the machine off, I get sparks and the machine attempts to start. So I should do this with the machine running? -- Just a little scary to me as I don't want to damage anything (anymore than it may be).
When I ran other tests indicated previous to that in the thread, I have 12.7 V at the battery whether machine is running or not. When checking voltage from Gen/A terminal, I get 2.6 V -- outside of that being low, because it's not 0, I'm not sure what it means. Lastly I get 0 V at the F terminal whether I test at the generator or the regulator. I'm not sure when/if I should be seeing voltage here.
So where I'm at is trying to figure out, do I have a dead starter/generator (that starts but won't charge) or do I have a bad regulator? Going a little further than that, would anyone happen to have a part number for that regulator if it's the problem?
I've been quoted $185 for the starter/gen (not sure if new or rebuilt) and $54 for the regulator. As the regulators were often used in cars too, I'm wondering if I can get that at NAPA (like I get my air filters).
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
-Shanen
As is typical, I come with questions, rather than solutions...as I am no expert. Flavor of the day is battery not charging. On my model 127 Cub, this is going to be due to voltage regulator or starter/generator. Battery is known good - load tested yesterday.
I did a search on the forum, as I was certain that this is something previously covered. Best stuff I found that pertained most to me was in the archived thread https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/forum/board-auth.cgi?file=/106/27681.html .
Specific post by Terry Busch (Tcbusch) on Tuesday, April 26, 2005 - 06:47 pm indicates a shorting of A terninal to Battery. When I do this with the machine off, I get sparks and the machine attempts to start. So I should do this with the machine running? -- Just a little scary to me as I don't want to damage anything (anymore than it may be).
When I ran other tests indicated previous to that in the thread, I have 12.7 V at the battery whether machine is running or not. When checking voltage from Gen/A terminal, I get 2.6 V -- outside of that being low, because it's not 0, I'm not sure what it means. Lastly I get 0 V at the F terminal whether I test at the generator or the regulator. I'm not sure when/if I should be seeing voltage here.
So where I'm at is trying to figure out, do I have a dead starter/generator (that starts but won't charge) or do I have a bad regulator? Going a little further than that, would anyone happen to have a part number for that regulator if it's the problem?
I've been quoted $185 for the starter/gen (not sure if new or rebuilt) and $54 for the regulator. As the regulators were often used in cars too, I'm wondering if I can get that at NAPA (like I get my air filters).
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
-Shanen
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
shanen..
I'm no expert on this, but make sure the regulator has a good ground. I my years of futzing w/ cars, I've learned with electics, always verify good ground first... HTH
I'm no expert on this, but make sure the regulator has a good ground. I my years of futzing w/ cars, I've learned with electics, always verify good ground first... HTH
mhomrighausen
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- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Shanen H. I agree with Scott T. One little thing though. Why is it everyone always asks about automobile stuff fitting on their Cubs? I know some of the stuff does however... IH used to make trucks and also some of the stuff they used for Cub Cadets also fit their full size farm equipment. If you have an IH part number see if the CaseIH guys have it for a big tractor or combine. Sometimes that is cheaper than getting genuine MTD/Cub Cadet parts.
Off to go to an open house this afternoon in town. Two car attached garage. Double lot. Cub shed looks big enough for about four Cubs. Tomorrow afternoon we are viewing another place with a single car garage and no Cub shed. Looks to be double lot with room for a nice new garage/Cub shed down the road. ( I know... Angel is looking at bedrooms, living space, kitchen, etc. That's her department.)
Off to go to an open house this afternoon in town. Two car attached garage. Double lot. Cub shed looks big enough for about four Cubs. Tomorrow afternoon we are viewing another place with a single car garage and no Cub shed. Looks to be double lot with room for a nice new garage/Cub shed down the road. ( I know... Angel is looking at bedrooms, living space, kitchen, etc. That's her department.)
Shanen, do not short the A term. to battery when running. when you do this when off (and you should anytime you REMOVE and service the s/g) all your doing is matching the battery polarity(neg. ground) to the s/g. to check if its your s/g, disconnect the wire from the F term. either on the s/g or the regulator, hook your meter up to the wire(i recommend this as you can check the wire also)or the F terminal of s/g. set your meter to Volts DC, start and run above idle, you should have 12 volts DC. you can check DC amp. also, it should be 1.4-1.5. if you check it through the wire and dont get anything, repeat the test on the s/g F term. by itself. if o.k. i would say its your reg.(or wire) if your grounds are o.k as Scott stated. if you need a reg. you can get that at NAPA, just take your number of the s/g and they should be able to match you up with one. hope this helps...
(Message edited by aowsley on July 16, 2006)
(Message edited by aowsley on July 16, 2006)
Scott, thank you for the feedback. Like you, I've recently had the opportunity to find that a bad ground caused problems on a car (for me, it dropped my fuel mileage by about 8 miles to the gallon and caused missing). Alas, I didn't check before you posted, so I did so --- grounds appear good. But it's a great place to start for anything electrical! I shoulda known better given current experience and will in the future.
Marlin, thanks for the tip. I'm the 2nd generation (in my family) owner of this machine. My dad would routinely find ways to get the non-IH part numbered items and save some $$$. Obviously there's no substitute for a lot of the stuff and even for some that there is...it's a bad idea to go "generic." But I do it where I can.
Anthony, thanks for the info. That's the type of stuff I was looking for. As my IH manual does not seem to offer me any straighforward testing, your info greatly appreciated. It would appear that my f "terminal" is giving me the f "finger" and a big ol 0 V --- that's by testing straight at the post on the s/g. The f wire to the s/g is good...continuity is there. So it looks like I get to go with the more expensive of the items. Now to begin my search for one of these.
I'm game for recommendations on this. Would the consensus here say that I should go with OEM (Remmy Delco) or would someone else's "equivalent" likely do me just as well and last. Additionally, what's the experience on new vs. rebuilt on these?
Thanks much all!
-Shanen
Marlin, thanks for the tip. I'm the 2nd generation (in my family) owner of this machine. My dad would routinely find ways to get the non-IH part numbered items and save some $$$. Obviously there's no substitute for a lot of the stuff and even for some that there is...it's a bad idea to go "generic." But I do it where I can.
Anthony, thanks for the info. That's the type of stuff I was looking for. As my IH manual does not seem to offer me any straighforward testing, your info greatly appreciated. It would appear that my f "terminal" is giving me the f "finger" and a big ol 0 V --- that's by testing straight at the post on the s/g. The f wire to the s/g is good...continuity is there. So it looks like I get to go with the more expensive of the items. Now to begin my search for one of these.
I'm game for recommendations on this. Would the consensus here say that I should go with OEM (Remmy Delco) or would someone else's "equivalent" likely do me just as well and last. Additionally, what's the experience on new vs. rebuilt on these?
Thanks much all!
-Shanen
