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Archive through July 02, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kide

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Gerry Ide
Jeremiah.... If you can't find Hylomar, which is great stuff, I still recommend Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker as a very good product...
 
Joe Smith: Gladly!
50" Deck Wheel - Front - Left Side:
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Dennis is right, I now think - it's a PO mod. I like it. Looks like just angle iron and swivel casters, some welding and nuts and bolts. In taking the pics I realized they have grease zerks. No idea why the pipe nipple's there, it's not on the other side. It'll probably hold a flagstaff someday. The caster is marked FAULTLESS 1400-6 but I think the wheel is 5".
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The 50 inch mower deck is a good mowing deck, the only problem it is a little weak, especially the right side rear wheel. Any used one will probably have a repaired right rear wheel or will not be running level.

I squared mine up several years ago and then added some support with front caster wheels. Since then I have had no problems with it, and it mows great.

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Richard, do you use that rod on the rear attachment points for mounting or was that for handling use when you modified it? I would think that might also stiffen it up a bit if used for mounting.
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Good looking deck.
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Richard C - that sure'nuff is a nice looking 50A (it does have the "A" suffix doesn't it?). I see Kraig asked about that rod which seems like a nice idea as he suggests. I'm also wondering how difficult it is to get underneath the tractor with the sub-frame hanging down. Your arched supports would seem not to allow it to just slide underneath. Do you lift up one end and slide it under the subframe? (By the way, I loved my 50A that I used with my 1450 - I cut 2 acres with it, one of which was wetlands. I cut thru bog grass and the edge of the deck would sometimes catch between 2 bogs, and I'd either have to get off, lift the side of the deck and let the hydro pull on it's own to get me out OR I'd have to get an ax to cut the bog out - dang that stuff was tuff!!!)
 
HARRY - Little secret here... I use a 3-ton floor jack and lift the frt of ALL my CC's about a foot in the air to remove & sharpen mower blades & remove/install the decks. Let the kack down with the mule drive lowered and everything hooks right up.
 
Dennis

X2 on the floor jack. Set the brake and jack up the front, makes the deck install/removal much easier.
 
Kraig, the rod is there to stiffen the deck and keep it stable. Makes a big difference. The weight of the 50 inch deck with the two quick disconnect pins will eventually warp the back of the mower deck. All the years I have used the rod the deck has stayed straight.

I built an electric lift that I use to remove and install mower decks as well as engines. I just disconnect and roll the decks out the front and when I re-install them I have the lift controls in my hand and just lower to the right position and then connect the deck. Takes all the work out of deck maintenance and saves on the back. Removing and installing engines with the lift sure beats the old engine hoist I had.

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Walkin' the dog!

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In the swamp....

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With the 1450 and fresh motor...

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This was all flooded 10 days ago...

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And needed mowing then...
I cant believe what an awesome job this almost 40 year old equipment does!! The 50" deck just walked right through this stuff albeit at a somewhat reduced speed.

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David S - very nice! I'm looking forward to using my 1650 w/14hp engine with 50 inch deck. It may be the IHCC mowing hammer in my fleet. When/if this tractor gets an engine refresh, it will be the K341 I've got on my list to rebuild. Tall grass should be no problem - unless I slip a belt...
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David S - that's what I was talking about. It's hard to beat that combination. On a rare ocassion when I couldn't get to my acre of wetlands because it was to wet and grew to 2 feet tall, I'd mow with the deck raised up, and then mow again with it somewaht lowered. They are a tough machine when set up right and running good.

Richard C - I didn't realize the deck actually warped, although I noticed the hanger brackets would seem to bend so it makes sense. That rod is a great idea and I'll have to get my son to change his methods. Thanks.

Bill J - ya, it's about time we started to hear about getting the others in your fleet going. You better hurry up or you're gonna miss out on the cutting season this year!
 
Quick throttle question. Putting the throttle stop and linkage on a 12 hp and not sure what washer I need to use. It's the washer that goes between the arm with adjusting holes and the wavy washer. Is it flat or a lock washer?

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Terry, here's a couple of photos I took a while back of one as removed from a 14hp. If I recall correctly the lock washer was captive to the bolt.

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Ignore the red arrow in this second photo that was added for the person I originally posted it for...

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Terry, here's a photo of the setup that is on the 12hp K301 in my #2 125. It has the same sequence of parts as the one I posted below.

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Kraig - that's absolutely perfect!! Don't remember the nut on the bolt next to the block but looks good to me. Thank you - now I can proceed!
 
Terry, I believe the bolt goes directly into a threaded hole in the block. Now that you mentioned it, I believe I added the nut to hold the assembly together for the photo.
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will the gears from a 122 transmission fit in a 100 transmission.
 

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