Charlie, Steve has a 42" cast end deck that he added a front roller to. I believe that Denny F. has a 38" cast end deck that he added outboard front rollers to.
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Archive through July 02, 2004
- Thread starter jrichardson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Actually I think it's a stamped deck that he modified. Oh Denny........
Matt, that would be the later "sleigh" style subframe/ blade for an Original.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kraig-
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
The front portion looks like it has had the lift bracket modified to lift from outside the frame like the later Cub Cadets. The Original lifted from within the frame.
Bryan, yes, but then I wouldn't have anything to do!!! 
)
)
I'd, shudder, have to do actual work! p
pKraig - Your correct in the second post, stamped deck, Like Richard posted the pic of, just the center section where the roller mounts is cast. The brackets for the roller/wheels are home-made & welded on. And if You look close You can see the brackets just in front of the lower leading edge for the horizontal lip I bolted to the front lower edge of the deck. The right side blade tip comes within 1/8" of the inside of the radiused end of the deck. And the baffle inside the deck is 2" tall/deep/high/whatever?!? The deck already had the rear guage wheels sitting just inboard of the rear tractor wheels when I got it. Steve B. adds a second roller just behind the center blade inside the deck housing that I don't have.... Yet. Not enough room at the ends of the deck ahead of the rear wheels to add anymore rollers/wheels to cure Richard's problem I'm afraid. I can get that deck to scalp when turning and crossing a ridge I have in My yard at an angle. The 44" & 50" decks don't scalp as bad because they have outboard guage wheels on the very ends of the back edge of the housing.
Matt, I missed your query on the front PTO when I first read post on the blade. I'm no expert on the PTOs but I'll take a guess and say that it's possible that the bearing may be going out and is sticking. I'm sure that someone more in the know will offer more info.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks, Kraig! In my picture you can see where the original lift bracket has been cut off if you look close.
Jeff, my client is buying the whole property, the plant is divided up right now and alot of it is a moving and storage company,but one of the tenants next to temperature equipment makes hydraulic cylinders for those green garden tractors and they have another space that they make larger cylinders for large green stuff. if you look on the northeast side of the property you can still see the reinforced concrete to drive the crawlers on. I'll meet you up there some time if you like and get permission to poke around. There is lots of hidden parts and pieces and machines around there. We chased some kids on the roof and nearly got lost you really have to be up there to appreciate the size of the place. Shawn
IronGuard primer:
Need some help- When I wet sand and recoat before paint, any feathered edges swell up and some wrinkling occours over the old primer. The IronGuard doesn't say anything about not being sandable, what am I doing wrong?
Need some help- When I wet sand and recoat before paint, any feathered edges swell up and some wrinkling occours over the old primer. The IronGuard doesn't say anything about not being sandable, what am I doing wrong?
wweckwerth
Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2003
- Messages
- 9
- displayname
- wayne weckwerth
Wyatt, The problem you are having is , you are using a lacquer type primer and putting it over an enamel based paint . This is always a problem when you use this type of primer over non factory coatings such as repainted areas .the only time you will not have a problem is when you are working with an original baked on finish Reason being lacquer solvents are very strong and will cut through just about anything they come in contact with .Whats happenning here is that the lacquer primer is trying to get under any previously applied finishes. The only way you are going to remedy this is to sand it the best you can , like you are going to get it ready for final top coat and then get some enamel based primer and go over the whole thing , or what ever you are painting . Let this dry real good and then if you are happy with the results , then you can put any topcoat over it . If not then you can use your lacquer type primer and use it to work out any imperfections , being careful not to sand through the enamel primer . If you do then you are going to have to reseal the sanded through portions with the enamel sealer . If you don't follow this youre are going to have to start all over. Also be sure to let any individual coats dry good Keep in mind that laquer type primer surfacers are sandable and primer sealers are most always an enamel type and do not sand very well Hope this helps you out
Wayne W,
My Iron/Guard primer can says it's acrylic enamel. Are they makin it lacquer now days?
Wyatt,
You dint paint anything outside in the last week down there did ya?
My Iron/Guard primer can says it's acrylic enamel. Are they makin it lacquer now days?
Wyatt,
You dint paint anything outside in the last week down there did ya?
Kraig, Keeper of the photos.
I have some nice pictures of my 124 that I restored last winter and am unable to post because of the size.
If I were to E-Mail them to you would you be able to re-size them to fit on the forum? Thanks in advance.
I have some nice pictures of my 124 that I restored last winter and am unable to post because of the size.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Wyatt,
Acrylic enamels (of any type, primer/paint) are very sensitive to cure times...catch them "wrong" and all kinds of bad stuff happens.
True, laquer over enamel is a bad mistake, but on a blasted surface Iron Guard primer and paint should be fully compatiable.
FWIW, I have always shot my stuff with Krylon buzz-bom primer (laguer based) and then top coated with Iron Guard acrylic enamel and the correct reducer/catalyst with perfect results. Laquer BEFORE enamel is OK, just not after....kinda like the old "beer before....."
Acrylic enamels (of any type, primer/paint) are very sensitive to cure times...catch them "wrong" and all kinds of bad stuff happens.
True, laquer over enamel is a bad mistake, but on a blasted surface Iron Guard primer and paint should be fully compatiable.
FWIW, I have always shot my stuff with Krylon buzz-bom primer (laguer based) and then top coated with Iron Guard acrylic enamel and the correct reducer/catalyst with perfect results. Laquer BEFORE enamel is OK, just not after....kinda like the old "beer before....."
Donnie H,
Send'um my way and I'll fix'um for ya.
Send'um my way and I'll fix'um for ya.
Sorry if I mislead-
On completely sripped steel, When I coat primer, then sand and recoat with the SAME primer without laying down any color, the primer raises the previously laid down primer.
I'm going to be using all CNH paint here, no mixing of stuff.
(Message edited by wcompton on July 03, 2004)
On completely sripped steel, When I coat primer, then sand and recoat with the SAME primer without laying down any color, the primer raises the previously laid down primer.
I'm going to be using all CNH paint here, no mixing of stuff.
(Message edited by wcompton on July 03, 2004)
Wyatt,
Since you dint answer my question, I'll say this. Unless your painting inside a temp/humidity controlled paint booth anytime last month, your gonna have problems as we/you have not had one good outside painting day yet. There may be something else causing your problem besides the humidity, but I'm thinkin that's most of the problem if your going by the directions. Just a thought. ;-)
(Message edited by cproctor on July 03, 2004)
Since you dint answer my question, I'll say this. Unless your painting inside a temp/humidity controlled paint booth anytime last month, your gonna have problems as we/you have not had one good outside painting day yet. There may be something else causing your problem besides the humidity, but I'm thinkin that's most of the problem if your going by the directions. Just a thought. ;-)
(Message edited by cproctor on July 03, 2004)
