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Archive through July 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Lucas, Try putting the governor spring in these two holes. This is how both my K241s are and I think yours should be the same.
193301.jpg
 
Lucas, Did you check the govenor arm, I recently had one slip on me. Loosen the govenor arm and grab the shaft (out of the block) with a pair of pliers turn that to the left. Hold the govenor arm to the left so it opens the throttle blade on the carb fully, then tighten the arm back up. I recently had a govenor slip on me is why I broght it up.
 
Matt G
I`am will to bet that the governer went south and after he checks and does the shaft adjustment ,he will find that the govener just gave up the battle. I had one go bad here on my 149 and thought the K was going to window the block before I got the thing shut down.
 
Charlie, that loader looks familiar.

193303.jpg


I used the one in the picture for a pattern for this one.

193304.jpg
 
Kevin if thats your engine pictured the small 90 degree bracket is a throttle stop. once you have your RPM set properly you adjust that bracket so the back of the arm hits it. It's a positive stop you can use in resetting/checking for other linkage problems.
 
Dave R....I have a 122...the gear shift will freely swing from side to side...so I need to remove the rear-end to fix the gear shift problem. Man, didn't count on that !!!!

Art A...Howz that Vibra-Tac working for you...
bubbly.gif
...mine is still going strong.
 
I just did the basic check up on the 123 I bought a few weeks ago. It didn't have the correct plug or wire. The carb was a mess, no gasket on the bowl, the airfilter was the worst I have ever seen and the timing was off. Yet, this thing started within seconds every time. I rebuilt the carb, new filter, new plug, fresh gas filter and an oil change. Now it doesn't run!




Just kidding! It runs great! Smokes a lot but runs real good.
 
I still can't believe these frames take all the stress of a loader. All the extra weight of the loader plus the load. The frames just don't look like they would be strong enough to take it. They have proved me wrong many times over.

Have any of you ever bent or cracked a frame??
 
Rick you just have to take the 8 (?) bolts off that hold the shift handle on. flip it over and pry out the lower cup (when you look at it, it'll be clearer) and reweld the shifter rod to the upper cup. sounds a lot more complicated than it is.
 
Dave....thanks...it's ALWAYS good to hear from you!!! Your HELP is priceless!!!

If a first time user was going to buy a welder to use around the house...sparingly....what would he get???....if this is not allowed here, please remove.

Rick
 
Rick:
Slide about halfway down this page and look at the pics from Richard Christensen..
Get a decent wire welder that you can add gas to later. One of the 110 Volt Millers (or, yeah, even a Lincoln) are much preferable to the HF stuff..
 
Gerry....thanks for helping...going to that page brings back memories....
 
I'm in need of a little help with my new toy. I picked up a QA-42A last night and seeing as it it July now thought I get right at mounting it to my 102. I download and printed the manual and set out to read and get dirty. Question #1 is, what makes up the "adapter package" that the manual refers to in a few places, I'm assuming I need this since I have a NF. #2, in the included photo top center there is a pin (on both sides) is that supposed to be a pin or did someone weld it into a hole? This should get me started, well this and a couple of bottle of Schlitz!

193307.jpg
 
I did the adjustment and it helped alot I drove it around for 20 min and and it only had 1 "episode" WAY better than 7 or 8 and when it has one I can turn the key off for 2 seconds turn it back on and it goes back to normal. Before summer is over I plan to regrind the valvs get new rings maybe rebore the cylinder and redo the balance gears with dave kirks balence plate when I do all of this I will replace the govoner parts.

So I hope it runs good for the parade becaus it would realy suck if I broke down infront of all the jd fans they will all be
clappy.gif
and I will
explotar2jr.gif


Thanks for all your help this forum and its members are priceless.
 
I'm reassembling the K-301 to put in my 125 after the rebuilding another block.

Is my drive coupler supposed to have this notch?
1a_scratchhead.gif


193310.jpg


Thanks
Jeff
 
L. William Rehm (Lrehm) ,
Here's a picture of the inside of the mount off my QA-42 that I use on my 125 ( narrow frame )

193313.jpg


That help?

Jeff
 
Jeff D - NOPE, that notch is a common wear problem. You could fix it by filling it in so you only have the slot for the pin, or you could purchase new from one of the sponsors.

Lucas J - I think you're taking a risk that the governor parts won't come thru a window!!! Or cause something else to.

L. Rehm - that pin welded on both sides is supposed to be there. There should be a bar about 18" long that connects to each pin. You should NOT need the adapter package. The part you show in the pic should be able to be set to the width of your narrow frame, but your 122 won't have the Quick Attach latch so you will have to bolt it on your frame. Maybe some can post a pic of a QA42"A" attached to a narrow frame which will likely answer ALL your questions (pics are worth more than 10million words).
I ain't heard of Schlitz being around for at least a couple decades. Did someone bring it back???

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and many parts are backwards compatible)
 
L. Rehm and Jeff D - just in case, the QA42"A" works on both narrow and wide frames. The mounting assembly bolted around the right angle gear box has to be dis-assembled and re-assembled to the narrow frame width (if it's set up for wide frame). Rehm, the part in your pic is one of several that needs assembly. If Jeff can post a full pic of the mounting assembly it may help you see how you're going to have to re-assemble yours.
(Schlitz - the beer that made Milwaukee famous).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they enjoy Milwaukee tools)
 

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