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Archive through July 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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T-Mo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
428
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Terry Reed
Thanks, Marty. I had forgotten that I added your 128 a few months back. It looks great.
 
Frank, Here is a pic of my 102 that has been my mower tractor for about 9 years now..I restored it in 2001 and it was pretty much shot.Every moving part from the front pto to the input shaft on the trans needed replaced. It was a ball of rust too. So you have a lot better tractor to start with it seems.You can really make that one nice.
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Kevin: Like I said, YAHATF!
9 years with that pin-on deck must mean you're as impressed with it as I am?
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David K - oh Great One of Knowledge - hey many thanks for the comments on gauges. Seems you're leaning my direction. There's already enough gauges, cept maybe adding a tach.

Jeff B and Art A - You guys never heard of my Special Products 169 Unit. Dang, if you study the pic in my profile you can see a few of the pre production post release differences. I already mentioned a few before. The front wheels are pre production (they were made along time before the 169 series). The steering wheel is a post release change (it was introduced mid QL series production so it was post release of the 169). It also came with the black 13 fin engine, which would normally be a re-power (but that's my own change). Sorry if I burst any bubbles, but it is IH thru and thru.

Kevin H - I can't see a plate like that on the side of my 169's 13fin. It could be for the oil fill tube as was mentioned, but seems to large for that to me. I believe one version used on the later 12fin blocks was a hole in the top of block next to the lower cylinder wall. We'll need some pics of other guys AQS engines to make a good determination. KRAIG Keeper of the Photos - have you got any K341AQS pics on the side of the block next to the starter???

For the spes on my engine and tractor, the 169 serial is 523760 which puts it at Sept 1974. The engine is a K341A, Serial No. 6272028, Spec 71154a. Can't be far off your's Kevin. One thing I do see on both yours and mine is that hole towards the front of the lower cylinder wall where the bottom fins are. That's when Kohler was getting ready to make the AQS and is used for the muffler box mounting I believe (someone needs to confirm this as well). Interesting and I wonder when Kohler actually introduced the AQS series.

Well, going back a littler further in time - no one seemed interested in my comment on the correct rubber foot pad for the early narrow fram units that 1st used the foot pad on the brake/clutch peddle. Well, I'll have to tell you anyway. The rubber pad mounting plate is slightly raised off the arm on the earlier units - SO the rubber pad doesn't really need the "cut out" area on the back for the arm itself. Later the mounting plate was welded right against the arm and the rubber pad has a small rectangular area cut away so it does NOT interfer with the arm. YOu guys with the early narrow frames need to run out and check your rubber pads to see if it is full on the back of pad which is original, or if it has that little cut out area where it contacts the mounting arm and would be a replacement pad. Let's go guys - let me know which you have with which tractor. The wide frames all have the little cut out.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and if you never use the brake you might just have the original brake pad)
 
Well, Harry - it's amazing the stuff I don't know. My 147 has no cutout, but the 149 does. You have to be a total Cub Nut to know that!

--Gregory
 
Harry your saying early "narrow frames" had rubber pads?
 
Frank C.
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For KENtuckyKEN.
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One more day and then three days of Cubbin'...
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I am new to this site & recently acquired a '73 129. I would like to add head & tail lights and was wondering if anyone has experience w/that and if it is a feasable operation. Thanks in advance!
 
Dave R - narrow frames that have rubber foot pads on the brake/clutch pedal (peddle
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have no cut out on the back of the rubber pad. I actually don't know when IH added the cut out except all wide frames use the cut out style. I was surprised to see Gregory has no cutout on his 147.

Gregory M - thanks for checking your 147 and 149. Any chance you can get a couple pics and post them. I'd like to see the metal plate as well, and see if it is slightly raised off the arm. I would NOT suggest removing the rubber pad or you risk tearing the pad and having to replace with the newer style. By the way, how long would it take me to get to Sagle from Seattle on my 169?

Robert U - welcome to the Forum. Adding headlights to a 129 is quite straight forward. I believe most or some of the wiring is already in the harness but you'll need to check, or someone else on here can help. You'll need the switch, and an original IH version might be a little pricey. You can probably get the front mounting plate and rings from one of the sponsors (a bit pricey) or you can post on here in the wanted section. Same with the "correct" rear tail lights with lenses. If you're not real concerned about keeping it original and more concerned with the price and adding the function, well there are other ways to light up the nite. I think the QL series light panel with rubber rings are more readily available, and various rear lights can be used.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but ya gotta keep their rubbers in shape to stop, and lights a'glowing so you see where your going
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My cub is acting up the day befor the parade
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I got it to idel but it just takes off at full throtel while the throtel lever is in the full retard position what is wrong HELP is the govoner impromerly adjusted?
 
I need a little help once again from the cub cadet experts. I have a newly acquired 128 that was hung up in between gears. I removed the shifter mechanism to discover two broken shift forks. One is cracked and loose on the shaft the other just plain broke and missing a piece that I hope to find in the sump when I change the rearend oil. I can easily move the forks to acquire neutral position and all the gears seem to have their teeth, unlike some of my relatives...(just kiddin). Are there any tricks to changing the forks? Are they simply loosen the bolts and remove/replace/ I noticed in the IH parts look up there was a spring and ball in the area, does that play into the removal? These forks seem a little scarce and I may have to sacrifice a 104 for the parts. Thank you in advance for your help.
Two most recent postings of the 169 and 128 restorations are quite remarkable! Awesome job!! There are some true craftsmen on this site.
 
Thomas, The bolts that hold the forks to the rails do just that, hold the forks to the rails. To remove them you have to take the reduction housing off. Then slide the rails forward out of the housing. The springs and balls your talking about are in the housing and ride on the rails to give a positive detent to the shifter rail position, when you slide the rails out those balls have a bad habit of falling into the gearbox. I probably make it sound more complicated than it is. Look at it this way, it's an exelent oportunity to get the brake serviced.
 
Dave,
Thanks for your timely response. I did not realize the reduction housing had to be removed. Guess I better get a gasket also. I think I will try to find both shifting forks somewhere that have already been removed. Thanks again and have a great weekend.
Tom
 
Look at it this way Charlie - it keeps the mosquitoes from landing...
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Lucas-

Moving the spring to different holes will not change anything other than the sensitivity. Have you reset the governor arm/cross shaft relationship?
 

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