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Archive through January 29, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
One more.
Dennis, I was going to add washers to my clutch on my 106 and was going to ask but you have already answered the question I was going to ask! I had read some posts from awhile ago and never got where to put them till now!! Thanks
Got the 1450 back together this morning. finally got the pin lined up and driven in on the lift handle rod. No easy task to get done by yourself.
I did change the handle to left side.
I seemed to always grab the wrong lever when it was on the right side.
Took her down the road to my neighbors house and cleared off their driveway.
No more going in reverse because I grabbed the wrong handle when trying to lift the blade. Works for me.
I never thought I could have so much fun tooling around on an old tractor.
I did change the handle to left side.
I seemed to always grab the wrong lever when it was on the right side.
Took her down the road to my neighbors house and cleared off their driveway.
No more going in reverse because I grabbed the wrong handle when trying to lift the blade. Works for me.
I never thought I could have so much fun tooling around on an old tractor.
John also there is a shear pin someplace in the clutch area I had the same thing hapeen to me all I had to do was replace a shear pin still to this day have no idea where it is but never had any troubles since. had a repair shop do my repairs just now trying to do them on my own
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dan threatened me!!!!!...besides, if he would have INTENDED for it to be a show piece he would have done it on something much nicer than 1/4" plywood (you guys have been to Dan's and seen the wood shop...it's as nice as the metal shop!!!!)
Seriously, Dan told me shortly afterwards that it was made to use and (nicely) suggested I do so, also adding that the 1/4" plywood was intentional so that it wouldn't be TOO nice....
...That said, I really thought 2x before cutting the wire ties. Needless to say I was very surprised when he presented it and will always be thankfull for his efforts...it certainly wasn't expected.....
Seriously, Dan told me shortly afterwards that it was made to use and (nicely) suggested I do so, also adding that the 1/4" plywood was intentional so that it wouldn't be TOO nice....
...That said, I really thought 2x before cutting the wire ties. Needless to say I was very surprised when he presented it and will always be thankfull for his efforts...it certainly wasn't expected.....
J
jclazar
Guest
thanks,every one in this club. i feel a bit silly after learning how to read my tire sizes! without this culb.....i'd have a heck of a time. thanks again!
I took out my Cub for a spin today and it's having a problem. It's been really cold for weeks now. Never above freezing and I think it might be a factor. After starting it up and letting it warm a bit (10 min. at idle) I got in the seat and pushed up the throttle and put the hydro in gear, it bucked forward a little then would not move.
When I slow the RPMs down to about 1200 I can get the tractor to move but if I increase the throttle to 3000 I hear a chattering noise and the tractor gets really bucky or stops altogether.
It's acting like the pump isn't pumping or maybe a pressure relief might be malfunctioning.
Anyone got a suggestion?
-everett
When I slow the RPMs down to about 1200 I can get the tractor to move but if I increase the throttle to 3000 I hear a chattering noise and the tractor gets really bucky or stops altogether.
It's acting like the pump isn't pumping or maybe a pressure relief might be malfunctioning.
Anyone got a suggestion?
-everett
EVERETT - It's possible that the hydro charge pump may be cavitating, the Hy-tran in the rearend could be too thick to flow into the oil intake and at the higher RPM it's starving for oil.
But normally Hy-Tran won't do that until it's colder than just Freezing, 32 deg. unless it has a lot of water absorbed into it. Has Your Hy-Tran & filter been changed?
Hydro's put a lot of heat into the oil, letting it set idling at 1200 RPM or moving around slowly at that speed should help the oil warm quicker and minimize the problem.
When it gets cold I only ever run stuff I have to run. Wife gets a little irritated sometimes because I don't get the Super H & loader out to push a half inch of snow so She can get out with Her AWD SUV. But when the Super H does come out it gets fully warmed up, well, at least the engine does. Me and the whole rearend freeze to death!
But normally Hy-Tran won't do that until it's colder than just Freezing, 32 deg. unless it has a lot of water absorbed into it. Has Your Hy-Tran & filter been changed?
Hydro's put a lot of heat into the oil, letting it set idling at 1200 RPM or moving around slowly at that speed should help the oil warm quicker and minimize the problem.
When it gets cold I only ever run stuff I have to run. Wife gets a little irritated sometimes because I don't get the Super H & loader out to push a half inch of snow so She can get out with Her AWD SUV. But when the Super H does come out it gets fully warmed up, well, at least the engine does. Me and the whole rearend freeze to death!
Thanks Dennis- I was kinda thinking that might be a possibility. I've heard some of the guys here use a magnetic heater to pre-warm the hydro, what wattage would work best?
As for the filter I haven't replaced it and was hoping to avoid that until warmer weather arrives. I read the FAQ about replacing the HY-Tran and it sounds messy. I wonder why there isn't a drain plug. Pulling off the cover plate and replacing the gasket seems cumbersome to me. But it's the same way on my VW so I guess I can do it. Unless I can suck the Hy-Tran out with an oil sucker. I have one I use for all my small engines. Anybody ever try this?
-everett
As for the filter I haven't replaced it and was hoping to avoid that until warmer weather arrives. I read the FAQ about replacing the HY-Tran and it sounds messy. I wonder why there isn't a drain plug. Pulling off the cover plate and replacing the gasket seems cumbersome to me. But it's the same way on my VW so I guess I can do it. Unless I can suck the Hy-Tran out with an oil sucker. I have one I use for all my small engines. Anybody ever try this?
-everett
Thomas- I'll look for the roll pin tomorrow. I would guess that I need to unbolt the drive shaft from the (rubber circle thingy- what is that called) and see if I can pull the stub shaft off the tranny. Know what size roll pin that might be?
-everett
-everett
Steve B.,
Everett, when changing out Hy-Tran it's best to remove the back plate because as the Hy-Tran absorbs moisture it turns somewhat to a gel. Opening the back of the transmission allows that gel to be removed. Also a good time to visually inspect things in there.
Everett, when changing out Hy-Tran it's best to remove the back plate because as the Hy-Tran absorbs moisture it turns somewhat to a gel. Opening the back of the transmission allows that gel to be removed. Also a good time to visually inspect things in there.
Everett.
What you have described is just what I went through last December when it got below freezing for a week and I needed to move my 127.
I had all kinds of chattering noise comming from the hydro.
After letting the tractor sit for a while idleing the problem went away and another one developed.
Now when I step onto the netural return / break lever fully my 127 wants to back up once I remove my foot from the lever.
I decided to waite until warmer weather to try and figure out what went wrong.
What you have described is just what I went through last December when it got below freezing for a week and I needed to move my 127.
I had all kinds of chattering noise comming from the hydro.
After letting the tractor sit for a while idleing the problem went away and another one developed.
Now when I step onto the netural return / break lever fully my 127 wants to back up once I remove my foot from the lever.
I decided to waite until warmer weather to try and figure out what went wrong.
bcarl
Well-known member
Everett,
The roll pin on the driveshaft is 1/4" x 1 1/2". Make sure to use a roll pin and not a spring pin. The spring pins won't take the stress like the roll pins. The rubber circle thing is called a flexible disc coupling. You shouldn't need to take anything off to replace the roll pin. It is a bugger to get at on the NF CCs. Especially if you need to punch out the remmants of the old pin after it shears off. It's a good idea to replace the disc if it's worn. I believe the disc serves as a 'shock absorber' to relieve stress on the drive shaft connection to the tranny.
Bruce
The roll pin on the driveshaft is 1/4" x 1 1/2". Make sure to use a roll pin and not a spring pin. The spring pins won't take the stress like the roll pins. The rubber circle thing is called a flexible disc coupling. You shouldn't need to take anything off to replace the roll pin. It is a bugger to get at on the NF CCs. Especially if you need to punch out the remmants of the old pin after it shears off. It's a good idea to replace the disc if it's worn. I believe the disc serves as a 'shock absorber' to relieve stress on the drive shaft connection to the tranny.
Bruce
EVERETT - Changing the Hy-tran & filter on a 982 or any Super Garden tractor is not really hard, but VERY time consuming compared to other CC's, Especially if You have the rear PTO & Cat. O 3-point. ALL that stuff has to come off then go back on. Just nuts & bolts but takes time. You can't even see or touch the cover on the rearend.
The filter really isn't a problem, with the top tunnel cover off the filter is right there just under the driveshaft. Easy to get to from below also...just make sure EVERYTHING is clean so dirt doesn't get a chance to get into the hydro or filter. The roll pins Thomas mentions are right there in the driveshaft going into the hydro pump/motor unit also so You need to remove that tunnel cover to check them out good. Just four small machine screws or bolts. Does take a bit of "Persuasion" sometimes to get the cover out from between the steering support and seat support/fenders. Next time I have My fenders loose on My 982 I'm adding a flatwasher or two between My fenders & their mounts to get some more clearance. I've got the tunnel cover off now anyway, adjusting the neutral linkage and I may add them before it goes back together.
I wouldn't try to just suck the oil out of the rearend thru the dipstick hole. Of the seven quarts of oil You may be able to get 5, MAYBE 6 quarts out that way. Then when You add the new Hy-Tran & filter You'll still have SEVEN quarts of dirty Hy-tran.
The filter really isn't a problem, with the top tunnel cover off the filter is right there just under the driveshaft. Easy to get to from below also...just make sure EVERYTHING is clean so dirt doesn't get a chance to get into the hydro or filter. The roll pins Thomas mentions are right there in the driveshaft going into the hydro pump/motor unit also so You need to remove that tunnel cover to check them out good. Just four small machine screws or bolts. Does take a bit of "Persuasion" sometimes to get the cover out from between the steering support and seat support/fenders. Next time I have My fenders loose on My 982 I'm adding a flatwasher or two between My fenders & their mounts to get some more clearance. I've got the tunnel cover off now anyway, adjusting the neutral linkage and I may add them before it goes back together.
I wouldn't try to just suck the oil out of the rearend thru the dipstick hole. Of the seven quarts of oil You may be able to get 5, MAYBE 6 quarts out that way. Then when You add the new Hy-Tran & filter You'll still have SEVEN quarts of dirty Hy-tran.
