Archive through January 29, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Daniel Jones- (or anyone else)
I've used electrolysis for rust removal on other projects (i.e. my David Bradley 2 wheel tractors) and it works really well. I have two pointers tho'
one- Use an old charger if you can get one. Some of the newer ones use a type of pules charging system that, although is great for a battery isn't well suited for an electrolysis tank. Unless you put a battery in series with the charger. The battery is a good idea anyway as it helps smooth out the current even with non-pulsing chargers.
two- This process is line-of-site. If you use one piece of sacrificial metal like re-bar you will see rust removal only on the side of your project that was facing your re-bar. You can turn the project piece a few time to get all sides or do what I came across accidentally. While looking for something to use as the sacrificial metal I located an old chunk of 4ga wire cattle fencing. I bent it into a tube shape that fit inside my plastic barrel and suspended my project in the center. It worked great. The 4ga steel fencing has so much surface area that I haven't had to replace it yet and I've done quite a bit of rust removal with it.
-edale
I've used electrolysis for rust removal on other projects (i.e. my David Bradley 2 wheel tractors) and it works really well. I have two pointers tho'
one- Use an old charger if you can get one. Some of the newer ones use a type of pules charging system that, although is great for a battery isn't well suited for an electrolysis tank. Unless you put a battery in series with the charger. The battery is a good idea anyway as it helps smooth out the current even with non-pulsing chargers.
two- This process is line-of-site. If you use one piece of sacrificial metal like re-bar you will see rust removal only on the side of your project that was facing your re-bar. You can turn the project piece a few time to get all sides or do what I came across accidentally. While looking for something to use as the sacrificial metal I located an old chunk of 4ga wire cattle fencing. I bent it into a tube shape that fit inside my plastic barrel and suspended my project in the center. It worked great. The 4ga steel fencing has so much surface area that I haven't had to replace it yet and I've done quite a bit of rust removal with it.
-edale
J
jclazar
Guest
wow! a lot of snow has fallen here in middlefield,oh. 18hrs. strait on a jd 210c backhoe/loader.....WHITE GOLD! now i can get my new tire chains for my IH cubcadet 71. went out to check tire size but only came up with this:GY 6-12,lawn&garden,2-ply,6-2 rateing. #mroc894...but no tire size. checked faq. any info would be thankful! o-yea, the original tire sticker was still on the lr tire,but says only 70. my tires are narrow,not wide like on my 72.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
John L.-
6-12 <u>is</u> your tire size.
6-12 <u>is</u> your tire size.
dsacksteder
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- Dustin Sacksteder
Kraig, where is that picture of the brinly hitch from. Is that someones show display?
Dustin, that is one that Dan Hoefler made especially for Steve Blunier for hosting Plow Days and was presented to Steve at Plow Day 4.
KRAIG - Did the archive bug bit?
JOHN = Matt's correct, std tire size in the OLD days was 6" wide on a 12" dia. rim. My GY tire data book says they were 21.9" tall on a 5" wide rim but I think they exaggerate a bit. I have two sets and they aren't worn that bad and they're only about 21" tall at most.
Your 72 probably had them on when it was new too. Any tire chain for a tire 6 to 7-1/2 or 8" wide and 22-23 inches tall should work. Someplace like "tirechains.com" or any of the sponsors of this site up above should have the correct size in stock.
DON - How's the chains working for You? By the looks of Your drive I'd say really good!
Dustin - I "THINK" that was a door price for PD #2 made by Dan Hoffler. I could be wrong but I don't think so....looks like His detail work!
JOHN = Matt's correct, std tire size in the OLD days was 6" wide on a 12" dia. rim. My GY tire data book says they were 21.9" tall on a 5" wide rim but I think they exaggerate a bit. I have two sets and they aren't worn that bad and they're only about 21" tall at most.
Your 72 probably had them on when it was new too. Any tire chain for a tire 6 to 7-1/2 or 8" wide and 22-23 inches tall should work. Someplace like "tirechains.com" or any of the sponsors of this site up above should have the correct size in stock.
DON - How's the chains working for You? By the looks of Your drive I'd say really good!
Dustin - I "THINK" that was a door price for PD #2 made by Dan Hoffler. I could be wrong but I don't think so....looks like His detail work!
Steve, Nice Trailer!
Kraig, that trailer looks familiar. I have been to Johnson Trailer Co. and drooled over the acres of trailers they have!
My 14' trailer is from Johnson Trailer Co. I bought it from a Lawn Mowing Service who beat it up for a few years. It had a Mesh tailgate but I took it off, they had replaced the mesh with a heavier duty mesh, plus extra angle irons, very heavy. Made for driving Zero turns onto it at full speed...
I've hauled up to 4 cubs with mine. Here's a pic of the back of it from a Plow Day in Wisconsin last May. From left to right that is Lonny Buttke, Ron Thomley(my dad), and Andrew(my son). The Cubs are my 122, my dad's 100 with a loader, and my dad's Original.
Plow Day... I can't wait!
Kraig, that trailer looks familiar. I have been to Johnson Trailer Co. and drooled over the acres of trailers they have!
My 14' trailer is from Johnson Trailer Co. I bought it from a Lawn Mowing Service who beat it up for a few years. It had a Mesh tailgate but I took it off, they had replaced the mesh with a heavier duty mesh, plus extra angle irons, very heavy. Made for driving Zero turns onto it at full speed...
I've hauled up to 4 cubs with mine. Here's a pic of the back of it from a Plow Day in Wisconsin last May. From left to right that is Lonny Buttke, Ron Thomley(my dad), and Andrew(my son). The Cubs are my 122, my dad's 100 with a loader, and my dad's Original.
Plow Day... I can't wait!
Denny, yes I got bit! The Sleeve hitch adapter was made by Dan H. as a gift for Steve B. See my post below.
Brennan, some time back I took some photos of the Original mower deck guards (with a ruler next to them for dimensions) for Don T., <strike>I'll post them shortly.</strike> Actually I'd rather send them via email as they'll not be as helpful when I reduce them to posting size.... there's 20 photos, that's about 38MB worth.
Let me know if your email can handle that much info. I can send them in batches too.
Brennan, some time back I took some photos of the Original mower deck guards (with a ruler next to them for dimensions) for Don T., <strike>I'll post them shortly.</strike> Actually I'd rather send them via email as they'll not be as helpful when I reduce them to posting size.... there's 20 photos, that's about 38MB worth.
I have a IH 71 that was used most of wednesday to plow and about 3 o'clock it wouldn't drive. Earlier in the day I noticed that when the pedal was pushed down it made a heck of rattle, and while trying to put it in the garage I noticed that if the pedal was pushed down half way it would move slowly.
--Lonny said it could be a teaser spring or a throw-out bearing. Is there a way to know which is the problem and do i have to pull the enjine to repair?
Thanks in advance,
John
--Lonny said it could be a teaser spring or a throw-out bearing. Is there a way to know which is the problem and do i have to pull the enjine to repair?
Thanks in advance,
John
Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk)(DON - How's the chains working for You? By the looks of Your drive I'd say really good! ) Chain`s are the way to go for sure lol, my trupowers could`t come near the chains for traction. Did i say how much fun the Cub is with a plow hehe.
Kraiq i thank you again for that post, and my O thanks you also.
I picked up the 129 hood from the welder bud after he repaired (filled) 6 extra holes. Tomorrow am i will prime it. so i`am down to just the loader section to prime. I smell Paint just around the corner lol. Later Don T
Kraiq i thank you again for that post, and my O thanks you also.
I picked up the 129 hood from the welder bud after he repaired (filled) 6 extra holes. Tomorrow am i will prime it. so i`am down to just the loader section to prime. I smell Paint just around the corner lol. Later Don T
JOHN - Sounds like You may have SEVERAL clutch problems. Everything is all in the same location so once You have the clutch out the only problem is making sure You have the right repair parts. The engine has to be unbolted but You don't have to lift it out, just slide it forward.
Remove the four bolts from the underside of the frame, disconnect the PTO clutch linkage and set the lever in front that disengages the clutch forward against the grill. You may have to turn or remove the muffler to let the engine slide forward enough. No need to disconnect the throttle or choke cable, just side the engine forward until the three pins slide out of the friction disc of the clutch.
Remove the pin or bolt the throw-out lever pivots on, remove the adjusting nuts from the bottom of the throw-out lever and slide the lever off the end of the rod. Then the hard part is removing one of the roll pins from the back of the driveshaft so You can get the whole driveshaft & clutch assembly out of the tractor.
After You get the driveshaft and clutch out inspect the clutch parts closely. A teaser spring normally doesn't effect the way a clutch holds or engages EXCEPT to make it grab real hard all the time. It'll be like You "POP" the clutch all the time. The throw-out bearing is probably "not good" even if it isn't "bad".
I'd get both a teaser spring and throw-out bearing and hope Your clutch lever is O-K. When throw-out bearings get bad they do wear very hard on the driveshaft sometimes. If the holes in Your friction disc fit snuggly on the three pins on the drive plate on Your engine there's no need to replace it. And if You have to take Your clutch far enough apart You may want to slide some 5/8" ID flatwashers behind the big compression spring that pushes the clutch plate together, 1/4" tall stack would be enough for a 7 HP, makes You clutch less prone to slip.
Check the two steel clutch plates out closely. Make sure they're flat, no big grooves.
Your anti-rattle springs are problaby long gone, get three, and back a couple pages in this forum there's a pic showing they go on the three clutch driver pins before the engine with the pins slides rearward into the holes on the clutch friction disc. That's important if You want Your anti-rattle clips to stay on more than a couple seconds. The clutch works fine without them however. In fact, may actually work better, it just makes Your engine sound like it has a noisy rod bearing.
Any more questions just ask away.
Remove the four bolts from the underside of the frame, disconnect the PTO clutch linkage and set the lever in front that disengages the clutch forward against the grill. You may have to turn or remove the muffler to let the engine slide forward enough. No need to disconnect the throttle or choke cable, just side the engine forward until the three pins slide out of the friction disc of the clutch.
Remove the pin or bolt the throw-out lever pivots on, remove the adjusting nuts from the bottom of the throw-out lever and slide the lever off the end of the rod. Then the hard part is removing one of the roll pins from the back of the driveshaft so You can get the whole driveshaft & clutch assembly out of the tractor.
After You get the driveshaft and clutch out inspect the clutch parts closely. A teaser spring normally doesn't effect the way a clutch holds or engages EXCEPT to make it grab real hard all the time. It'll be like You "POP" the clutch all the time. The throw-out bearing is probably "not good" even if it isn't "bad".
I'd get both a teaser spring and throw-out bearing and hope Your clutch lever is O-K. When throw-out bearings get bad they do wear very hard on the driveshaft sometimes. If the holes in Your friction disc fit snuggly on the three pins on the drive plate on Your engine there's no need to replace it. And if You have to take Your clutch far enough apart You may want to slide some 5/8" ID flatwashers behind the big compression spring that pushes the clutch plate together, 1/4" tall stack would be enough for a 7 HP, makes You clutch less prone to slip.
Check the two steel clutch plates out closely. Make sure they're flat, no big grooves.
Your anti-rattle springs are problaby long gone, get three, and back a couple pages in this forum there's a pic showing they go on the three clutch driver pins before the engine with the pins slides rearward into the holes on the clutch friction disc. That's important if You want Your anti-rattle clips to stay on more than a couple seconds. The clutch works fine without them however. In fact, may actually work better, it just makes Your engine sound like it has a noisy rod bearing.
Any more questions just ask away.
Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk)
(Are You saying We're going to see yellow & white THUMBS tomorrow!) well no just a few more parts to prime ,but soon the 129 will see fresh paint . i`am soon ready for the foot hydro control. i have some parts but will have to order 3 hem joints. i was hoping Kraiq would have some control pictures that he could post for me to study. Thanks Guys for all your help as i reach 1000 posts. Later Don T
(Are You saying We're going to see yellow & white THUMBS tomorrow!) well no just a few more parts to prime ,but soon the 129 will see fresh paint . i`am soon ready for the foot hydro control. i have some parts but will have to order 3 hem joints. i was hoping Kraiq would have some control pictures that he could post for me to study. Thanks Guys for all your help as i reach 1000 posts. Later Don T
Don, do a forum search on foot control. Select "and" in place of "or". Here's one on Steve B's foot control from the results I got.
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Kraig-
Is now a good time to give Steve B some friendly ribbing for ever taking that brinly hitch off the plywood board???
Steve-
Nice trailer!
<font size="-2">Oh, and why would you ever take that hitch off the board?!?!?! LOL!</font>
Is now a good time to give Steve B some friendly ribbing for ever taking that brinly hitch off the plywood board???
Steve-
Nice trailer!
<font size="-2">Oh, and why would you ever take that hitch off the board?!?!?! LOL!</font>
Art, yeah, I couldn't believe it when I saw that Steve had removed Dan's artwork from the plywood.
