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Archive through January 29, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Hey Lonny...

Does your rain cap bug the crap outta ya like the ones on my 169 did? Mine used to BUZZZZZZ when the RPMs went up.
 
Bryan,

The only times the rain cap don't make noise is full throttle or off, anything in-between and it rattles so loud you can hardly knotice the motor knock.

Which I hope to have fixed by the end of this school year, I am takeing the motor to the local shcool and have the small engine class overhaul/rebuild it.

(Message edited by lbuttke on January 30, 2006)
 
Ted B.

The 37 deg tapered metal cone and flare nut pull into eachother making a oil tight seal, just like a car's brake line, copper compression fitting, etc.
 
Lonny, did you have any traction issues on your ride across the field and through the woods?
 
Bryan M. Thank You. I'll check it out and give it a try.

Tedd I. I am curious about that little fella. Can't get anymore Cubs though. I have three that I am working on right now. Then I have the '36 F20 and the '54 Super H and my dad's '46 H. (I'll be busy for awhile.)

Travis S. Just saw that you are thinking of selling your trademark? Say it aint so?
 
Progress on the 149...

got the frame derusted/sandblasted
33676.jpg


Next, I have to fix the QA flange. It is supposed to accept a 1/2" implement peg. Last winter I had to bush the peg up to a 5/8 for it to stay. Any pointers on how best to fix? I was thinking on putting a copper plate between the ears and welding the ID up, then redrill/file/gring back to the proper profile..
33677.jpg


Got the Kohler done, had to roll it out when cleaning out the garage over the weekend. It was 50 degrees here..(@#$@#^)
biggrin.gif

33678.jpg


Also have to fix this, I think. Is this worn? (snicker)
33679.jpg
 
There was some talk a while back about removing the finish off of our cubs. I tried this, and although i was going for rust removal, I got an added side benefit- paint removal. i am talking about reverse electrolysis rust removal. See this site for info.
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

here is my setup:
33685.jpg

Along with some parts
33686.jpg

33687.jpg

33688.jpg


Cost me a total of $2.99 for a box of washing soda, and a week worth of time....
 
g.l.louderback.....those might be wide frame rims, and you are installing them on a narrow frame. i have one of my 125's set up like that, with valve stems on the inside of both wheels...actually the very first cub cadet i ever bought came with one proper wheel and one with the valve stem on the inside.... it wasn't till a couple cub's later that i relized what was up.
ihrotate.gif
 
Kraig M.

The only traction issues I had is where there was ice under the snow from all the warm weather we had been haveing.
The tall tires allow the cub to go 12mph in 3rd gear, I only do that on the roads around here for obvious reasons.
 
Glen, and GL: The wheels used by IH should have the stems on the outside. The wheel company that manufactured the wheels for IH also made wheels for other brands/applications. Some have different offsets, some had the valve stem on the inside.

Wheel Horse (and I think John Deere and Sears) also used the same wheel company...and thus, wheels off of those tractors will fit a CC. Wheel Horse used the 'off white' wheels, with the stems on the inside.
 
Rick..

I know I don't need that blower sheave mod that everybody uses!!!
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It is out of my 66 fairlane I'm building.. 427, alum heads, ~600hp
 
Scott, does the paint just wipe off after that treatment or do you have to scrape it off? Hmmmm, I may have to give that a try. I already have a plastic 55 gallon drum setting by the shed.......

Rick,
happy.gif
 
Had a good day today, I added another member to the family. I couldn't pass it up on the price, It is a 1650, It runs but needs a new battery and tune-up, and it already has the 3-point on it, score! I just hope that I can get this one ready in time for PD.
33697.jpg
 
Kraig

On the parts in the pictures, it more or less fell off. The 149's hood I had to scrape it to move it along. I am in the process of building another, larger tank to accept the 149's fender ass'y. On line, a guy made a tank big enbough to put a trailer frame in it...

here are some more links:

http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/adrian/rust.html

and using mollasses!!
http://www.users.onaustralia.com.au/glenn_percy/derust.htm

I also tried this stuff:

http://www.safestrustremover.com
It worked well, and, as you can see in the pictures could come in handy if you has to derust something BIG, but overall, I think it is too much money for what you get. The solution lost it "oomph". Here is my bath using the above solution:

33700.jpg
 
Kraig.
another thing.. you can use just about anything for the anodes. I used junk bedframes that I collect along the side of the road. I am using the old scraper blade off of the QA42 blower I restored last year! I'm also after junk water heaters now, because you can get a large quantity of sheet metal really cheap and easy....
 
Scott, thanks for the additional links! I have some scrap rebar that should work for the anodes. I also have a near endless supply of old steel T-posts on my parent's farm, left over from rebuilding fences.

What are you using the sheet metal for?
 
Kraig

For the Anodes- you take the sheet and lay it inside the barrel around the edge.. for surface area = faster derusting...

i bought rebar to use, it really crusts up quick. i remove it, wire brush it off, and put it back in.....

I found a pic of the hood and tunnel cover
33703.jpg
 

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