Archive through January 29, 2006

[gwsmith]

kendall..how much weight you have there? nice set up.

 

[rbedell]

Geez....Take a look at Ebay Item number: 7740944500.

Now who would pay more for these used broken items ....than you can buy them new for..???

 

[bmcmeen]

Roland -

And $6 to ship something that fits in a flat rate priority mail package...

 

[rbedell]

Bryan:

You are right....that even makes it worse....

 

[kg]

Glen:
The weights are about 30# apiece. I've also got cast iron weights in the wheels (they were originally yellow as in J*** D****)but I've always thought they were pretty nice. They're around 30# also.

I just walked out to the shop - frost is out of the ground... now I'll have to get the mole traps out.

 

[bcook]

The auction for those tail lights is pretty damn sad

..........those are trash can material!

 

[bmcmeen]

The spot for gabbing is The Sandbox. There's even a "weird weather" thread there already. Your post has been moved there.

 

[casmith]

My 149 was running great until it suddenly lost power. Couldn't get it going, so had to get it towed about 300' out of the woods. I replaced the original check valves with the new style a couple of years ago and was told slow towing isn't a problem. Hopefully, that is not the cause of my current problem.

After having the broken valve spring replaced, the engine runs fine...until a load is put on it. While the engine still sounds strong, the RPM's drop and it acts like it's trying to pull MUCH more than it really is. Reverse doesn't seem to operate at full speed either.

With no load and just running at full speed, it never reaches the previous level of power.

I keep this at some property in the GA mountains. The local repair shop claims to be well versed in Cubs, but the jury is still out on that claim. My choice of repair shops up there is VERY limited.

Any ideas?

 

[digger]

Al S,
I had that same thing happen to one of my 149's and I asked the same question you just did.
The answer I got was and I quote,
"Change the coil dumba$$".
I did and things were fine again. It might be worth a shot for ya to try it.
On the weak reverse thing, clean up the area around the relief valves and swtich'um. If it goes slow forward and great in reverse, that will tell ya that they should be replaced.

 

[tbordeleau]

Question about the lift cyl hydraulic lines on a 1450:

I recently went completely thru my 1450, and the PO had swapped the lift cyl hyd lines for some reason, maybe by accident, so that the lever action was reversed from what it should be. I swapped them back, and now have a major leak on the line coming from the big end of the cyl, where it connects to the valve body. the leak is at a joint that "seemed" like a "swivel", a connection that would allow tightening of the line to the valve body without winding up the line. I say "seemed", because this "swivel" is only at the valve-body end, and not the cyl end, so as the hose end screwed into the valve body is tight and leak-free, by trying to tighten the "swivel" nut (and it WILL still turn) the whole line up to the fixed end at the cyl winds up, almost to the point of kinking the line.

How should these lines be tightened, and does it sound like I have a factory line, or maybe something fabricated?

With the proper OEM line, is it possible to cinch down both ends (valve body, cyl) without twisting the line?

Thanks!

 

[sblunier]

Ted B.

ARe you using a back-up wrench on the line when you tighten the flare nut????? Those should be 37 deg. flared fittings and don't require any sealant etc. You must use a back-up wrench however......

 

[glouderback]

Somewhere I obtained some rims that fit my Cubs (painted Cub Colors too) that have the tube valves on the inside.
I have looked in my parts book and can find no such rims. Any help out there???
Thanks in advance.
G.L.
"Honor thy parents"

 

[bmcmeen]

GL -

Those would likely be Simplicity rims, not <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet rims. They're certainly painted off white, but not any of the whites used on <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets.

 

[tbordeleau]

Steve B.:

I think I see what's going on-

The leak is happening between the backup nut and the flare nut that gets cinched down to the valve body. Misunderstanding the problem, I began to "tighten" the backup nut, which is naturally fixed to the hose, and that's what's causing the hose to wind up.

Here's a question: How does a hydraulic hose joint like this seal between the fixed nut and the flare nut on the end? That's where my leak is, and I wonder how a joint that's designed to rotate seals at all...

Thanks!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Charlie P. Here ya go. A high Clearance Cub that is close to your neck of the woods.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Antique-Vintage-Cub-Cadet-Garden-Tractor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6737QQitemZ4608998545QQrdZ1

( You'll have to show me how to do that "Click here" thing sometime so I don't use so much space like above.)

 

[bmcmeen]

Marlin -

How 'bout reading the documentation regarding the \newurl tag? No magic involved...

Just click here!

 

[rrschmitt]

Al S,
You might first check and/or replace your breaker points. They could be pitted/dirty and need cleaning or replacement. Make sure the gap is set properly at .020". My 149 was doing the same thing, no power and running hot. Replaced the points and condenser and it ran great.

 

[lbuttke]

After the fresh snow fall I decided to take a little ride on one of my cubs.
Headed out across the field.

Headed for the woods

Headed back to the house

 

[till]

Marlin,

I know the person selling the Cub. I will see what's up with it......

 

[casmith]

Charlie/Brian:

Thanks for the advise. I try all the suggestions when I get back there.