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Pretty close,
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Charlie, they are probably within the factory tolerance. Are the overall lengths the same?
 
They both look "off." One is a Monday fab the other is a Friday.
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Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - you really think a Monday and Friday version?

Charlie and Kraig - might be kinda neat to see an "O" with one of each of these brackets. At a quick glance it might look like it had a flat tire or low pressure
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Hydro, no, I was mainly stating that it might be two examples of the extremes within a very loose tolerance. I threw the Monday/Friday thing in for comic relief...
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Charlie -

I have some rusty original headlight brackets. They are more like the one with the longer squished mounting area, and shorter "pipe" area, and not bent with a mandrel like the other one appears to be
 
Kraig - more comic relief - in order for the lights to be aligned squarely you'd have to have another installation drawing (mirror image) but showing placement of the holes on the right side of the grill housing about 1" lower.
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Charlie - looks to me like one of those brackets is a counterfeit
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Hey Guys...My wife is going to pick up a couple of new spark plugs, a new Kohler condenser (2nd new one) and a new Kohler ignition coil. I'm going to swap out the spark plug, install the new Kohler sparkplug wire first and see it it will fire up. If not, I'm pulling the points cover off, and dragging a folded dollar-bill through the contacts and try it.. If no start, I'm changing the condenser (again) and try it.. If still no fire..I'm gonna replace the 4.2 ohm premium NAPA coil out for the 83 buck genuine Kohler item...

I wonder, if it possible, that a 285CCA battery does not have enough amperage to fire the plug when the temps are below freezing? It turns over fine, but hey..I'm asking if the current required by the SG to turn over a freezing cold engine, might be more than the battery can support and have enough left to energize the ignition system? Am I overthinking this here?


How big a battery are you guys running in the old narrow frames to start the K301A motors in unheated buildings? The 285CCA battery has been inside my heated basement, off the concrete floor and a Battery Tender Jr hooked up..So it was at peak charge when I tried starting the 126 in advance of yesterdays snow storm..only to discover it has no spark at the plug..

I REALLY need to get the old 126 starting and running (again) It was staring and running great, until it sat for a month without being ran...How the heck does a working ignition system go from awesome, to no spark by just sitting a month?


We are forecasted to get between 8 and 14 inches of snow and I NEED to be able to use the 126 and push blade to clear the drive and parking area..

Thanks..and Regards

John
 
I thought the original Original brackets were cast iron.

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John M - 285 CCA battery should be enough battery, especially if you're keeping it out of the tractor. Also, I just realized you said you installed a 4.2 ohm Premium NAPA coil. It's gotta have an internal resistor. I'm not sure what happens when you use one without one but someone on here will tell us.

Bill J - guess you thought wrong, but those are still nice looking brackets.
 
Thanks Harry B...The NAPA Premium Coil does have an internal resister.. They vary from 3.8 to 4.3 ohms according to the manufactures build specs..I measured mine with a Fluke Multi-meter and came up with the 4.2ohms reading at the Napa parts counter..

Looking forward to getting the old girl running!
Regards
John
 
John M.-

Slow down a bit. Random replacement until the problem is solved is the most frustrating and expensive way to troubleshoot electrical problems, unless by some miracle the first thing you replace was the problem. If I were you, I would (in more or less this order):

1. Put on the new plug wire first (if you already have one). Followed by either a different new plug or known good plug.
2. Clean the points again. New points need to be cleaned right out of the box so that they will conduct. Did you do that upon initial installation?
3. If that wasn't the problem, see if you have 12V on the + side of the coil with the ignition on. If not, follow the wiring diagram and find out why there is not 12V at the coil.
4. If there is 12V at the coil, verify that there is continuity between the - side of the coil and the points.
5. If there is continuity between the coil and points, disconnect the coil and measure the resistance across the terminals with a multimeter. Should be 4-8 ohms or something like that. Not sure of the exact number, but not zero or infinity.
6. If the coil, points, plug wire, etc is all good, then perhaps replace the condenser. You should still have spark with a malfunctioning condenser unless it has shorted internally.

Battery is not the issue. If it cranks over, the battery is good enough. My 782 will start in winter with a 225 CCA battery...

Edit: If you've previously measured the resistance of the coil, then it's probably fine.
 
The ones you see online are these, which look to have number 12611R on them. I really don't think that was ever an IH number.
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Ignition testing made easy. Throw away ohm meter. Get a good quality 12 volt test light, get a Thexton #404 spark tester. The Thexton #404 is has an adjustable gap so you can test the strength of the spark and clips onto the engine for a good ground.

Step one: Use spark test to check for spark at spark plug - If no spark go to step two. If spark install new spark plug

Step two: Use test light to check for voltage at battery (+) side of coil, key on engine off & key on engine cranking - if no power locate open in circuit

Step three:Use test light to check for signal on negative (-) side of coil, key on engine cranking, the test light should pulse on and off as the points open and close. no signal - check points - clean or replace, if you have signal - defective coil or coil wire

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This week I decided to make an attachment to make moving my 30' long glider trailer between the backyard and the driveway a bit easier. Now I can back the trailer up facing forward on the 782. It ended up a bit more complicated than I initially intended, but I wanted the caster wheel pivot to remain parallel to the ground.

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Hey Charlie - your pics of the new rubber bumpers for the 1x6/7 series doesn't really show their size well. Makes'em look like the little ones used on the 1x8/9 and Quiet Lines but I know they are at least twice that size.

Anyone got a pic of the original rubber seat bumpers installed on their 1x6/7???
 
Harry,
You do know that you can solve that dilemma don't you!
Post a BETTER pic!
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Charlie - no cheese, just give me the Cheez-Whiz!!!!
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